Update:

Well guys, determind not to let this get to me, i went back out to the car turned it on and done the lock to lock to reset the angle sensors i beleive.

low and behold i can here the compressor come on for maybe 10 seconds or so and the heard the RV do the dump valve noise 2 or 3 times but then it stops.

turned the engine on and off again, lock to lock and compressor comes on again, dump valve noise twice and stops again....

that shows me possibly that both things are working but what could be stopping the car system from just continuing to use the EAS compressor etc and work as normal...

i have to say the compressor is rather loud however there is no tyre, boot cover, rear seats or parcel shelf blocked the noise hence why it might just seem like that to me, i took everything out with the rear seats folded.

You should be able to hear the compressor, but it should not be too loud.

the compressor should only run for a short time intermitantly. If you have no air suspension fault on the dash its ok. drop the car to access height then raise it to offroad. that will make the compressor run for longer if your concerned. [img]http://www.fuelly.com/driver/rob2529/range-rover[img/]
04, 4.4V8, Vogue Oslo Blue with LPG.
"You can sleep in your car, BUT you can't race your house!!!!"

If something can't be fixed with a hammer....... You have yourself an electrical fault!

Hi 47p2,

I was out again and as soon as i do the lock the lock thing it starts working, its not so loud now, just normal tbh from my own estimate.

but it just stopped after releasing some pressure. not sure what course of action i should take now tbh. just out of curiosity i went out the the car and the distance from the bottom of my alloys to the middle arch point are all different:

front left: 32cm
front right: 31cm
rear left: 31cm
rear right: 30.5cm

is it possible to have this much difference? is it normal or is this way off ?

if my compressor and release valve starts each time i do the lock to lock it shows me it 100% works, the process is working. even when i was sat in the car i could feel it adjusting the corners while the compressor was on but it always stops working after the exact same amount of time, what would this show??

could it mean its working fine as i dont suspect that the compressor runs 24 7 however the gremlin within the car has a stored fault and its to be reset or could it be the compressor is still screwed, and to test it i should hook it up to a 12v from my other car and see if it runs for more than 30 seconds????>

Rob2529 wrote:

the compressor should only run for a short time intermitantly. If you have no air suspension fault on the dash its ok. drop the car to access height then raise it to offroad. that will make the compressor run for longer if your concerned.

You could try disconnecting the battery for 20 minutes (both leads then connect a wire between the two leads once removed from the battery) (do not connect a wire between the two battery terminals) to see if that clears any faults, otherwise it might be a trip to an indie to have the fault codes read and re-set and take it from there

47p2 wrote:

You could try disconnecting the battery for 20 minutes (both leads then connect a wire between the two leads once removed from the battery) (do not connect a wire between the two battery terminals) to see if that clears any faults, otherwise it might be a trip to an indie to have the fault codes read and re-set and take it from there

Leave it disconnected for 20mins or so with the wire attached to the two leads. Re-connect the positive lead first then the neg, start the engine and turn the steering lock to lock to allow the steering position to be recognised by the computer and see how it goes from there

RR8701 wrote:

Hi joe,

i assume that is a rave manual you have that you have uploaded a screen shot of, where did you get that from if you dont mind me asking, looks quite good. haha.

thanks

Here's a link to the workshop manual (copy and paste whole link)

http://www.landroverweb.com/Pdf-files/Manuals/Workshop%20Manual%20L322%20Range%20Rover.pdf

And the electrical workshop manual for the wiki (Stan!!)

File name: ellm024e.pdf File size: 39.31 MB .
Experience is the only genuine knowledge, but as time passes, I have forgotten more than I can remember
Volvo V70 P2 2006 2.4 Petrol 170bhp Estate SE
MG Midget Mk1 1962

Previous: L322 Range Rover TDV8 3.6 2008; L322 Range Rover TD6 3.0 2002; P38A Range Rover V8 1999

all the downloads are in the wiki..  ... - .- -.




Y. O. L. O.
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on my 2005 model the compressor ecu is behind the dash next to the glovebox. I actually left a can of juice in the cupholder and it was very cold one day and the can exploded resulting in the ecu got covered in cola!.Worth checking the ecu is looking ok

47p2 wrote:

Leave it disconnected for 20mins or so with the wire attached to the two leads. Re-connect the positive lead first then the neg, start the engine and turn the steering lock to lock to allow the steering position to be recognised by the computer and see how it goes from there

It's supposed to clear any glitches in the ECUs'

I doubt if it will clear any fault codes but I've seen it done numerous times in LR indies

*

Thanks mate, ill give that a try soon, can you recommend a good indy near glasgow if it doesnt work, since you are also in glasgow you might know someone who wont cost me an arm and a leg, im tempted to just buy the rsw all comms tool to clear the faults... lets just say, i dont think this is the last time i will see faults with my rr lol

It's all good and fine to clear the faults, but you need to find what's causing them and repair or they will just keep coming back. If the faults are not repaired they eventually go into a hard fault code where it can become expensive.


I used E.S. Alternators in Kirkintilloch a couple of weeks ago and they were very good



You can read about imy experiences here