Hi, new member here, first time poster. Wanted to start off strong with a fault code on my new to me 2010 Range Rover 5.0 S/C Autobiography.

It is showing a fault code when plugged into diagnostics but not throwing a EML. The code is P0481-13 which signifies a malfunction with cooling fan 2 control circuit. When cleared it comes straight back.

I've already done some initial troubleshooting by removing the front grill and disconnecting the connecter to confirm that there is power reaching the fan which I can confirm at 12V. The fan also spins freely and doesn't jitter in place when connected with the engine and A/C turned on it just sits still.

I am unsure what the third wire on the connecter should be reading as I presume it is the control wire from the ECU since the power wire is permanently live. Is there a way to test that it is getting the correct control signal?

Lastly, if everything points to a faulty fan is the only option a new genuine LR part (LR020124 ~£900) or could a second hand fan be taken from a different engine'd car be made to fit the original shroud?

Thanks!

Last edited by 98_Martin on 30th Mar 2025 3:56pm. Edited 1 time in total

Update

After some research it seems that the third smaller wire going to the fan is directly from the ECM and uses a PWM signal to tell the fan how fast to run depending on variables (engine temp, outside temp, AC pressue, ect...).

I don't think that there is an easy way to verify the PWM signal so tomorrow my plan is to hook the fan directly to a 12V feed and see if it spins. If it does I might have bigger problems but if it doesn't then I'll probably be looking at a new fan assembly and unfortunately for the 5.0 it seems the only option is new.

I've attached a picture of the engine cooling wiring diagram



Last edited by 98_Martin on 30th Mar 2025 3:20pm. Edited 2 times in total

Update 2

So I've realised that putting 12V directly to the connecter won't do anything as that's what it's already getting.

Instead I plugged in my Ancel X7 into the car again and looked for some live data from the ECM for the cooling fan. I found some inputs for the PWM control of the electric fan which seems to show a signal being sent, however, it didn't seem to move from the 9% it showed. This was with the engine pretty much up to temperature and the AC on. The other parameter I found was one called the Cooling Fan Module Monitor which remained off, I assume this is where my problem is and that the car knows that the internal module within the electric fan isn't functioning, that's what I hope anyway.

JLR Classic Parts are currently running a 20% off deal for spring that ends tomorrow night so I think I'll make the most of that and just order a new electric fan assembly and hope that it cures the problem before the warmer weather.

I've attached a picture of the printout from my code reader

Update 3

Some not so good news... after much dismantling to get the electric fan out I found that the PWM signal wire was badly chaffed and corroded. With that I cut back until clean copper, crimped it back together and finished it with some adhesive filled heat shrink.

Refitting and connecting the original fan to the freshly repaired loom I hoped this would get things operational again but unfortunately still no spinning fan. So I then had my dad hold the new fan off the car with it plugged in and again still no spinning...

The car was fully up to temperature and AC set at max in the front and back.

The only thing I noticed was when I removed the fuse for the fan (50A in the engine bay which I think is the only thing to check as there isn't another one or a relay?) it was discoloured on the legs but the fuse wasn't broken inside.

Anyone offer some help and advice on what to check next?

Update 4

I'm starting to question how much this fan spins on cars in this climate. Can someone confirm that they can see the fan spinning with the AC turned on?

I plugged in my code reader again, cleared the code for the cooling fan 2 control circuit fault, started the car up letting it get up to temp with the AC on and no sign of the code coming back. Before it was almost instantaneous the code would come back. Perhaps it is fixed? It is showing 7°C on the ambient sensor so it maybe has a threshold it needs to pass on ambient temperature before switching on, I really don't know.

For such a simple thing it really seems that JLR has managed to make it incredibly complex with the amount of variables and control.

The only other thing I can think to do is get my hands on an oscilloscope and verify the fan is receiving a PWM signal at the connector, I'm pretty lost on what else to do

Final Update

A conclusion at last, the chaffed wire was the source of all my troubles. Decided I would go back to my initial crimp repair and cut it to prove that the code would reappear and it did straight away - should have done this first, but hindsight is always 20/20. Then crimping it together again this time with extra wire as filler to reduce the strain on the wire and covering with electrical tape for tidiness and extra protection. With it permanently reconnected and all looking nice the code disappeared and hasn't been back.

Still have not seen the fan spin yet but I will await the summer months and higher temperatures and will look forward to hearing/seeing it spin to put me out of my misery.

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