Hi, Long time lurker here for maintenance guides, diagnosis help etc so thanks for that, esp @rrphil .

But Im currently a bit stumped, my M62 2004 L322 is unfortunately refusing to stop showing symptoms of a bad torque converter. The usual cattle grid style rumble, dropping revs at times etc.

I have done the usual, oil and genuine filter, instant shudder fix etc.

So my question is, what really are my options going forward? Im a keen DIY mechanic and would struggle to pay someone I'm guessing 2-3k for a recon box and tc, but is it worth trying to remove the tc and refit a reconditioned one leaving the gearbox alone? Try and rebuild the gearbox myself, do places offer diagnosis if I was to remove it and take it to them?

Basically I'm looking for advice please as im a bit stuck without anyone with knowledge to advise me.

I have a breaker with the same gearbox but im looking to get the rr in question to 200k, sitting just below 150k currently so not really wanting to just stick the other one in and kick the can down the road, but could possibly work in my favour having a spare box.

Thanks!

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....is it worth trying to remove the tc and refit a reconditioned one leaving the gearbox alone?

Thanks Phil, I will scour the internet for removal guides. I believe it can be quite tricky to get the tc back in correctly, did you have any issue getting urs back in?

As for who to use I'm a bit more limited being based in ni but will see what my options are.

Interms of solenoids etc is there any guide to testing them to see if they would be causing the issue?

Thanks again, very much appreciated.

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I believe it can be quite tricky to get the tc back in correctly...

It’s critical that the slots in the torque converter impeller drive tube engage with the drive dogs on the oil pump gear

When you offer up the torque converter, and rotate it to line up the oil pump, you’ll hear a clunk and the torque converter will drop in. This is the tapered snout of the drive tube engaging in the cast iron seal and is not the oil pump drive engaging. You then need to keep turning the converter until it clunks and drops in for a second time and engages to the correct depth. Not difficult – just needs a bit of patience. To check that the pump drive is fully engaged you need to check the dimension from the face of the bellhousing to the four welded pads on the converter which take the flexplate bolts. This should be 25mm.

Click image to enlarge

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Interms of solenoids etc is there any guide to testing them to see if they would be causing the issue?

You could try swapping EDS 4 (which controls the torque converter lock-up clutch) with one of the other black-cap solenoids, just to eliminate it, but I doubt that’s the issue. You can check the resistance of the solenoid windings with a multimeter, but this only tells you if the winding is okay, and doesn’t tell you if the solenoid is functioning correctly hydraulically.

Phil