This happened last night. No idea why. Now only the drivers door will lock and unlock. Can’t even open them from the inside.

Disconnected battery and left it half hour and it made no difference. No other errors showing on GAP IID.

Took it for a drive and the error has cleared but the doors still won’t open, they all have the orange lock light on but that won’t switch off.

Locking and unlocking the car you only hear the drivers side locks working.

Any ideas anyone??

firstly welcome to the forum ...i've also moved your post to the tech section..

that code seems to relate to a short circuit which has caused the BCM to go into a protection mode.

have you done any repairs or played with the iidtool? ... - .- -.




Y. O. L. O.
.

Hi Stan. Thank you.

No I haven’t made any changes with the GAP IID, all the doors except the drivers are sat with orange locked notification and won’t open from the inside or outside.

Any thoughts?

i'm guessing now, are the brake lights on with the ignition/engine on. ... - .- -.




Y. O. L. O.
.

Hey Stan.

Just nipped out and no the brake lights arent on when I start the car.

Do you know much about the GAP IID tool? The reason I ask is that I just popped it in and with the engine off it showed a battery voltage of 12.5v in the screens top left corner in green text.

I disconnected from the tool and then started the car and reconnected the tool to see if the voltage would change, as I would expect to see 14+v with the car running, but it still read 12.5v in the top left hand corner even with the engine running.

Is there a way to get a live data reading with the tool to see if the battery is charging from the alternator?

That is normal, the alternator is a "smart" one, it only charges the battery when it needs to...

IIRC You should have two batteries one under the spare and one in the drivers side boot side... You should check them both....  Pete
__________________________________________________
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OK, this is getting weirder and weirder.

Went out this morning and all the windows were down and the sunroof was open, totes random as my kids would say.

Ive managed to get the rear doors open, but now they wont lock. The front passenger door remains locked and if you press the lock and unlock buttons I can hear the switch in the front drivers side clicking.

Ive tried resetting the ECUs by removing both battery cables, touching them together for 15 seconds, leaving them for 15 seconds and then reattaching, but that hasnt made a difference.

I have also tried attaching an additional earth by connecting a jump lead to the negative and running it to a metal stake in the ground outside the car, but this hasnt made a difference.

I cant check the fuses in the internal fusebox as the glove box will not open far enough for me to be able to unclip it and drop it down as the passenger door needs to be open. - unless anyone can think of another way?

Checked GAP and got a new error which I havent looked up yet, U0011-82 (2E) CAN Bus comminucation. - will check this in a bit,

As I said, the rear doors are now open but wont lock eother through the central locking on my key, the central locking on the drivers door, or their own locking switches, but i can hear them clicking on the drivers door switch.

I can lock the drivers door with the remote but it leaves the rear other doors open, so not safe and secure.

The only additional info that I have, that may be a red herring is that this all happened on the same day that the passenger rear tyre was replaced, so I dont know if taking the rear passenger wheel off would have hit/snagged something like an earth strap?!? I dont know.


Any and all help gratefully accepted!

@Stan

Hey bud.

Not sure why your reply isnt showing up (it did show up in my email though).

Maybe you're right. Samantha said that after she picked up the car from the tyre change there was a suspension error showig on the screen and she was limited to 30mph becuase it was up high. She rang me at the time and I said to take it back in case they nicked a wire, which she did and they put a scanner on it and it showed nothing so took no ownership to it. It took 3 hours before it sorted itself out and then an hour after that all the current problems started, so yeah, maybe it a wire was nicked and this is creating a short in the canbus that isnt showing up on the diags.

So, and it pains me, I am going to have to find a garage with space to take a look at it. If its an ABS sensor then it should be £40inc VAT + labour and diags which isnt too bad. If its anything else then I think this is going to be exensive.

Thanks for your help.

But if anyone else has any ideas please let me know.