Hi I'm looking for connecting rod cap torque settings can you please share it with me? Of course in workshop manual there is nothing about it
engine: [448DT][SDV8]

Here you go

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Thank you so much. You saved my engine. On YouTube, it was said that the main crankshaft caps should be tightened to 60NM -> 140NM -> 90 degrees. Fortunately, I can still fix it.

I used these settings when rebuilding my SDV8 nearly 30k ago and it's been fine. I used King heavy duty main and big end bearings with genuine crank and rods and it's been faultless.

My post ' All I want for Christmas' details the rebuild and special tooling required.

https://www.fullfatrr.com/forum/topic68615.html

Any other rebuild queries, happy to help! L405 SV Autobiography LWB SDV8, finished in Aston Martin China Grey by ETO division.

I've just started assembling it. Also on KING bearings. Also new pistons because there was a small hole in one of them and of course the sleeves are ground

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I also replaced pistons (.50 o/s). Remember piston rods are numbered due to weight balancing. I reused main bearing bolts and big end cap bolts as the aftermarket ones I bought didn't feel good when beginning to torque them. I understand they can be used 3 times, mine is fine so I guess that's true!

Powodzenia L405 SV Autobiography LWB SDV8, finished in Aston Martin China Grey by ETO division.

Crankshaft side specs - is this referring to the 2nd bolt, furthest away from the crankshaft? Seems strange for both not to be the same though.

Does anyone use thread locker on the bolts? Unlocked bearing cap bolts seems to be asking for trouble.

I'm involved in the task of replacing main and big-end bearings in a 3.0 TDV6 as a precautionary measure before fitting the engine to a D4 replacing a siezed one. Also replacing the cam belt sprockets.

Crankshaft side specs relate to the main bearing cap cross bolts, the ones that go through the block horizontally into the caps.

I didn't use threadlock and haven't had an issue. There was no sign of any locking compound on the original bolts.

Hope this helps! L405 SV Autobiography LWB SDV8, finished in Aston Martin China Grey by ETO division.

Thanks 4RRS for the explanation.
The sump hasn't been removed yet from either engine. I wasn't aware of cross-bolts other than in the 2.7 where the main caps are horizontally bolted to the 2.7's ladder frame.

I haven't seen any reference to thread locker but the sump won't be removed from the siezed engine until the engine is out after the body has been removed so we don't know what failed, yet the replacement engine will be waiting to be fitted. The day before the failure the engine had a short period of rough running while cold but OK once warm, then the next day while overtaking the oil pressure light came on, the PCM put the engine into low power mode, the vehicle parked with the engine idling apparently normally but siezed after being switched off. Electrical faults had been recorded for the oil level and temperature sensor at the time. My best guess is that the plastic oil level sensor was destroyed by a flying object, possibly a bearing cap bolt as over the years there have been several reported instances of loose bolts in these engines. The D4 belongs to my son but was mine from new.

I want to determine the correct thickness of the head gasket. Both cylinder heads have been resurfaced, but I don’t know by how much. Is my only option to rely on someone like you to measure the original thickness of the cylinder head and compare it to mine? Or do you have another proposed solution for this?

There is no gasket available other than the std 4.4 thickness gasket so it's not possible to compensate for the refacing with a thicker gasket as you can with the 306DT engine. In my 4.4 engine rebuild thread I documented this, its a case of whatever was skimmed off the head, to then reseat the valves by the same amount to equalise the clearance, if you get this wrong you could end up with piston to valve contact at TDC. L405 SV Autobiography LWB SDV8, finished in Aston Martin China Grey by ETO division.

thanks for the advice. yes it was only surface treatment I hope it was the first one - I will check how the gasket was when I am in the workshop. as for WSM the description is for all engines just not for 448dt hence my question .

Please read my post again, as when I first posted I was thinking of the 306DT, not the 448DT and hence edited my post, which I suspect you haven't seen.

Topix states for the 448 that cylinder heads cannot be resurfaced and hence only the original thickness gasket is available. It can be done (and topix states in warranty claim scenarios it is acceptable, with authorisation from JLR).

You really need to know how much was skimmed off them both, a lot will be dependent upon how well the head was setup in the facing machine before starting the procedure, mine took quite a while to get true to the machine bed, but resulted in being able to do a minimum cut. My heads had no warpage and it was purely done for gasket seating. If you have any warpage then the cut will probably be too great to be able to compensate by dropping the valves into the seats.

Hope this helps! L405 SV Autobiography LWB SDV8, finished in Aston Martin China Grey by ETO division.