JLS wrote:

Thx, knwatkins. Looking at the UT-video Haylands was refering to in the link, it seems that you don’t need to unscrew the nut on the prop.shaft at the diff, with use of the two big spanners… Is that correct? It seem that this big nut that goes over the splines from the diff is just pushed on, and just is ment to keep dust from the splines since it has this o-ring. Its not easy to see this in the video, but if you are aware, you can see that they just pull the prop.shaft off, leaving the not still connected to the shaft.

Thx for the tip with the half shafts. I was thinking of just loosening the hub on one side, at either the upper or lower side, and pull it off the diff. Then lower the diff and pull the last half shaft out, leaving the hub on that side alone as mounted. Good idea?

A smalll update to those who are interested:

Yesterday I started removing the diff. After lifting the car up on a lift, I was first surprised by the fact that exhaust pipe was in one piece from the headers all the way to middle under the tank. After much consideration I went forward splitting the ex.pipe and leave the prop.shaft in situ. Using the park. breake I mange to hold the prop.shaft still making the loosening of the big 52 mmm nut easier. The nut grips around and tighten the splines on the diff. input shaft:

Click image to enlarge

Further I can confirm that it is possible to get the diff. out without loosening both half shafts from the hubs. I managed to loosen one side, right side. When I removed it completely from the hub and diff., I just slid the other half shaft out of the diff., in the same time I lowered the diff. When I had enough clearance from the sub frame, I pulled the diff backwards. It slipped quite easily from the prop.shaft.

I then drained the old diff., and here is some part of what I found:

Click image to enlarge

I guess this is not how it supposed to be….

I am now gathering some energy to tackle the job lowering the tank and check the pipings above. This job demands removal of the prop.shaft unfortunately, but I think I will be able to leave the ex.pipe as is…. sliding the tank backwards past the end of it.

I have bought a new protection cover for the tank. The old one is suprisingly rusty!! Unfortunately I didn’t buy the cover for the AdBlue tank. This one I’ll try to sand blast and refurbish myself. 2016 L405 SDV8
1962 Series 2 a petrol
1965 MB 230 SL

Well done JLS. As they say, there's more than one way to skin a cat! I removed the exhaust, shields, prop and entire knuckle assemblies along with half shafts still mounted in the bearings when I did mine.

So what's up with your diff? Is it making a racket? Are you going to rebuild it or fit a direct replacement?

When I did the pinion seal on mine, getting the knurled nut off was an absolute pig. Diff fixed to the floor with a long scaffolding pole and lots of swearing, penetrating oil and several hours of perseverance I got there in the end. Wouldn't wish it on anyone! Kev

2014 L405 RR Vogue SE 4.4 SDV8 in Corris Grey
2010 L320 RRS HSE 3.0 TDV6 in Stornoway Grey

Thx, kev!

The diff started to make a grinding noise when accelerating or retarding. No noise when just cruising a ling with no/low power. I then concluded that it had to be the diff. It was confirmed when I tried to change the oil. A lot of metal particles on the drain plug, as also shown on the picturein my last post. The car has done 110’ miles (174.000 km). I wonder if this is a little bit to early, but the car has got a lot of power, as we know… previous owner used it to pull a trailer quite often. I guess this is one of severalt reasons. Do you know if the diff is weak on these cars?

I bought a refurbished diff from a supplier I often/allways use for my LR’s. They are situated in England. With weak Norwegian currency, freight cost and 25% VAT, there will be no christmas pressents for the family this year…

Loosening the 52mm nut was suprisingly easy. I held the prop.shaft still with a 36mm wrench, together with having the parking brake on. This wrench was held still with a chain fixed to the lift. Then I had a friend pulling the 52mm wrench together with me. That did the trick.

Jan 2016 L405 SDV8
1962 Series 2 a petrol
1965 MB 230 SL