Hi!

I need to change the rear differential on my 2016 L405 SDV8, and was thinking of doing it myself. There aren´t many YouTube videos on the subject, unfortunately. I’m therefore hoping someone in here has done it, and have som advises…?

The main question is if I need to spilt the prop.shaft from the end nut that hold the prop.shaft to the diff. I wonder if the nut is just pushed on, over a lock ring and o-ring, similar to the drive shafts that just need a solid pull to release from the diff.

If yes to my question - what´s the smartest way to pull the prop.shaft away of the diff.?

Kind regards
Jan L-S

Some info on prop removal here, it's a big nut...!

https://www.fullfatrr.com/forum/topic71157.html Pete
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2014 L405 Autobiography SDV8 4.4 Loire Blue Ebony interior
2011 L322 Vogue SE 4.4 TDV8 Baltic Blue. Parchment over Navy Interior. Sold
2012 L322 Autobiography 5.0 Supercharged Ipanema Sand, Jet Interior. Sold
2002 L322 Vogue 4.4 V8 Epson Green, Ivory over Aspen Interior (Fatty Offroader) Sold
-Click for Project Fatty off roader-

Thx, Haylands! I’ve also bought a new tank shield, changing it together with the diff. Does the tank and shield have different mounting bolts, so the tank hang by itself?

Hello to Norway, I plan to do this work again next week. It's best to drive the tank fairly empty, then jack it up safely or use a lift. You can leave the empty tank on the car if you hang it on the body with thick cable ties, you only need to loosen a few smaller screws at the tank protection/tank connection. You can loosen the cardan shaft. There's a video on YouTube, it's from the Range Rover Sport L494, but it's constructed the same way. Luckily I attached my cardan shaft with 6 Torx screws at each end, it is from 2017 but the only rust spot is a completely rusted tank guard, unbelievable. And the rear brake lines were completely rusted through, absolute madness. All other parts are rust-free. Good luck, Uli L405 SDV8 2017 + Lancia Flavia Coupe 1964 + RRS L494 3.0 SDV6 + C220CDI Convertible 2021

Hello there, Meerbusch. Thank you for the quick response and advice. It seem I need to look deeper in to the health of my car, regarding your note on the rear brake lines

Jan 2016 L405 SDV8
1962 Series 2 a petrol
1965 MB 230 SL

Something else to check as well...

Rusty ARC lines,

Corroded rear subframe mounts

Corroded rear heater pipes...

Info and pictures....

https://www.fullfatrr.com/forum/topic67828.html

 Pete
__________________________________________________
2014 L405 Autobiography SDV8 4.4 Loire Blue Ebony interior
2011 L322 Vogue SE 4.4 TDV8 Baltic Blue. Parchment over Navy Interior. Sold
2012 L322 Autobiography 5.0 Supercharged Ipanema Sand, Jet Interior. Sold
2002 L322 Vogue 4.4 V8 Epson Green, Ivory over Aspen Interior (Fatty Offroader) Sold
-Click for Project Fatty off roader-

Thx, I’ll take a good look when I’m under there - cross fingers… With the fact that we use a lot - a lot - of salt during the winter here in Norway I guess the answer is given  2016 L405 SDV8
1962 Series 2 a petrol
1965 MB 230 SL

Unfortunately I imagine you are right, if you are taking the diff out I presume you will drop the subframe so set aside some time to do some cleaning up and rustproofing...  Pete
__________________________________________________
2014 L405 Autobiography SDV8 4.4 Loire Blue Ebony interior
2011 L322 Vogue SE 4.4 TDV8 Baltic Blue. Parchment over Navy Interior. Sold
2012 L322 Autobiography 5.0 Supercharged Ipanema Sand, Jet Interior. Sold
2002 L322 Vogue 4.4 V8 Epson Green, Ivory over Aspen Interior (Fatty Offroader) Sold
-Click for Project Fatty off roader-

Luckily the L405 is made of aluminum, so you only have to worry about parts that can be unscrewed and not have to weld half the car like on the L322. L405 SDV8 2017 + Lancia Flavia Coupe 1964 + RRS L494 3.0 SDV6 + C220CDI Convertible 2021

Not quite right, unfortunately the monocoque is aluminium but the rear subframe, and other bits, are steel and they set up electrolysis. The aluminium can corrode badly. All bolts going into the monocoque are bare steel and can strip threads or gall and the contact areas of steel rot out. DO NOT use a windy gun or similar to remove nuts and bolts, use a ratchet and go slow with plenty of lube...

I caught mine early but the contact points can get to this condition easily...

Wish you hadn't shown that picture especially on Halloween, very scary
The reason I went for a 405 was to avoid the corrosion issues of the 322 but it looks like it's always there
Having said that my Defender 90 is worse

I took my rear diff off earlier this year. With the right tools, it's fairly straightforward. You will likely not be able to knock/push the halfshafts back out of the hub so don't take too long trying to do it. It's easier to just remove the complete hub assemblies including the halfshafts. Kev

2014 L405 RR Vogue SE 4.4 SDV8 in Corris Grey
2010 L320 RRS HSE 3.0 TDV6 in Stornoway Grey

Thx, knwatkins. Looking at the UT-video Haylands was refering to in the link, it seems that you don’t need to unscrew the nut on the prop.shaft at the diff, with use of the two big spanners… Is that correct? It seem that this big nut that goes over the splines from the diff is just pushed on, and just is ment to keep dust from the splines since it has this o-ring. Its not easy to see this in the video, but if you are aware, you can see that they just pull the prop.shaft off, leaving the not still connected to the shaft.

Thx for the tip with the half shafts. I was thinking of just loosening the hub on one side, at either the upper or lower side, and pull it off the diff. Then lower the diff and pull the last half shaft out, leaving the hub on that side alone as mounted. Good idea? 2016 L405 SDV8
1962 Series 2 a petrol
1965 MB 230 SL

That's actually a good point ... the nut is undone, then prop slides off, then nut also just slides off ( with encouragement )

I've not removed the prop ( yet ), so I don't know if the nut has some sort of collared clamping force on the prop as it tightens down.

The nut must do something surely ... otherwise, what's the point of it? V8 or else ...

You'll need to use the 2 spanners to undo the threaded sheath that covers the splined shaft on the diff.

Unless of course your rear wheels are on the ground, which I will doubt as you are dropping the diff. Kev

2014 L405 RR Vogue SE 4.4 SDV8 in Corris Grey
2010 L320 RRS HSE 3.0 TDV6 in Stornoway Grey