I'm going to change my entire rear propshaft for a new GKN unit.

My question;

Does the exhaust need to be removed, as suggested in the workshop manual, or can the rear propshaft be removed with the exhaust still in place?

Thank-you.

I very much doubt it...!! Pete
I now have permission from the boss to use Y.O.L.O. Enjoy life
__________________________________________________
2014 L405 Autobiography SDV8 4.4 Loire Blue Ebony interior
2011 L322 Vogue SE 4.4 TDV8 Baltic Blue. Sold
2012 L322 Autobiography 5.0 Supercharged Ipanema Sand Sold
2002 L322 Vogue 4.4 V8 Epson Green (Fatty Offroader) Sold
-Click for Project Fatty off roader-

I did mine without removing the exhaust. However, had the luxury of a vehicle lift. Long extensions and correct socket is the order of the day for the bolts. Sorry can’t remember size of socket

That's very encouraging. Thanks.

Can you remember if it was essential to get the car up on a lift or did it just make the job more accessible?

It obviously will make it easier on a lift, but possible on the floor. It makes it easier to rotate the the prop / transmission to get the best position to undo the bolts. This will mean having transmission in neutral & park brake released. So please be sure to chock remaining wheels and support vehicle adaquatly - don’t be tempted to rely on air suspension. It is very low if it collapses.
Good luck

Let us know how you get on, a few pics would be nice...  Pete
I now have permission from the boss to use Y.O.L.O. Enjoy life
__________________________________________________
2014 L405 Autobiography SDV8 4.4 Loire Blue Ebony interior
2011 L322 Vogue SE 4.4 TDV8 Baltic Blue. Sold
2012 L322 Autobiography 5.0 Supercharged Ipanema Sand Sold
2002 L322 Vogue 4.4 V8 Epson Green (Fatty Offroader) Sold
-Click for Project Fatty off roader-

It is possible to replace the prop shaft without removing the exhaust pipes. Quite simple in fact for an L322 job..

My steps would be;
1. Remove two heat shields
2. Undo front prop fixing bolts
3. Undo rear prop fixing bolts
4. Free prop from transfer casing and rear diff casing with a sharp rearward and forward hit with a cold chisel on the prop shaft end.
5. Undo central bearing fixing bolts
6. Slide prop out the back
7. Slide new prop in from back to front. The exhaust acts as a useful support to the prop shaft whilst it is re-fixed.
8. Put the car in neutral
9. Attach front fixings
10. Attach rear fixings
11. Attach central bearing fixings - caution; make sure this bearing is positioned without any tension
12. Refit the two heat shields

The hardest part was removing and refitting the heat shield between the prop and the exhaust pipe.

WARNING: Make sure to put the car in neutral once you have removed the old prop shaft. Not when you have partially reconnected the front end. It will spin when moving the gear selector from Park to Neutral and makes a right clatter.

Re photos; I've done a video!

?si=Ug9zV5J5pbH-G9wH

FYI. I created a youtube channel to learn about video editing and improve my presentation skills which I think are improving, slowly.

Excellent video. Interesting to see how the end joints were worn.
How many miles had that prop done?
Also interesting welding on the exhaust pipes. Do you know why?
Kev.

Hi Kev,

Glad you found the video interesting.

The prop has done 111k miles. There’s no reason for me to think it’s been changed so I think it’s the original.

Re the exhaust welding. I think this may be something to do with a DPF clean done by a specialist local to the previous owner. Can you think of any other reason?

woodyrvf750 wrote:

youtube /C_dNSe6JEQ8?si=Ug9zV5J5pbH-G9wH

I just watched this last night, recommended by the youtube algorithm. It was really good, keep it up. I also liked your video on replacing the front pulleys, a job I’m expecting to do soon.

woodyrvf750 wrote:

Hi Kev,

Glad you found the video interesting.

The prop has done 111k miles. There’s no reason for me to think it’s been changed so I think it’s the original.

Re the exhaust welding. I think this may be something to do with a DPF clean done by a specialist local to the previous owner. Can you think of any other reason?

Hi Kev
I’m no welding expert, and it is pretty shocking, but I do believe it’s gas tight.
It just goes to show that maybe you get a better job done if you do it yourself, providing you have the tools, skills, experience, patience, facilities and aren’t trying to make a living out of it!
Thanks