JayGee wrote:

You would need to tighten the studs more to overcome the loss of friction but then you maybe getting near the elastic limit of the studs and there is a risk of stretching them

Just do what LR reccomends - 140Nm and no lube. 2012 TDV8 Vogue (L322)

I am not doubting that, but felt it important to correct your mistake, although it seems you are someone that cannot admit it - and that's fine JG, no biggie !

Yes I understand it's important for you to correct my mistake and that's also fine PC - no biggie! 2012 TDV8 Vogue (L322)

I have looked into this more and it's an interesting subject and one I think everyone should be aware of. I no longer regard anti sieze paste on wheel attchment threads as inherently wrong but it comes with caveats. Without going into the details if you use anti seize paste with a reduced torque (as correctly pointed out to me by PCourtney) to avoid a stuck wheel nut you must be doing regular torque checks on your nuts - do not fit and forget. If you go with the official guidance and torque specs you want to be keeping on top of corrosion by removing the wheels and cleaning the studs and nuts. Corrosion / friction in the thread not only makes nut removal difficult but it also prevents the specified tightening torque applying the correct and crucialy important clamping force. You can probably fit and forget for fairly extended intervals in this approach. Regular loosening, retorquing of unlubricated threads or threads with corrosion is not a good idea as it will damage the threads. If you like to fettle, change wheels regularly etc maybe think about anti seize paste to prolong thread life. 2012 TDV8 Vogue (L322)