2011 4.4 TDV8
Car raises From Access height to normal height without issue but goes beyond normal height to extended height. Reselect Normal height and the car drops to normal height.
Set off driving and in a few hundred yards Fault displays as Amber "Suspension failure"
Short time later the car drops to the stops and flashes red warning suspension failed 30moh max.
Stop car restart after few seconds. Car requests suspension height confirmation. Select normal height.
Compressor starts up vehicle starts to rise and goes beyond normal height to maximum height and requests to reset height once obstacle is cleared!
Does this a few times. Eventually amber suspension failure pops up and then "vehicle raising" followed by "suspension will fill once system has cooled" As long as the red warning doesn't come back on the car will stay in this cycle of raising/ overheating.
Some history.
Compressor is 2 years old
There doesn't appear to be any obvious leaks around the suspension turrets..no obvious hissing
Car doesn't fall dramatically on the suspension whilst it is standing still.
Bronze exhaust filter is clear..vehicle drops easily to access height.

The fault codes only relate to Compressor temperature and the occasional "exhaust valve intermittent" code.
The Compressor is seriously hot to touch.

My thoughts are faulty sensor somewhere in one of the legs or an exhaust valve problem. There is an occasional "exhaust valve" code but that code has only popped up twice but this issue has been going on for a few days now.
I'm also wondering if the height sensors are faulty they are all 4 connected mechanically
Or could the 2 year old Compressor be goosed already. (But why does the car go to maximum ride height instead of normal ride height)


I do get occasional "adaptive dynamics" warning but this quite often clears itself. I'm not sure but there maybe some relationship between the adaptive dynamics and the suspension sensors.

Any help would be greatly appreciated

Adaptive dynamics warnings are usually caused by breaks in the wiring going into the tops of the struts.
It can be both front and rear , but fronts are much more prone to failing.
I have just repaired my front near side for the third time in my 10 years of ownership.

Cheers
Mike. G reg 2.5VM Vogue Portofino red 1991- 1999
V reg 2.5td P38 Rioja red 1999- 2006
53 reg td6 Vogue Oslo blue 2006- 2015
11 reg 4.4 TdV8 Vogue SE. Baltic blue 2015- date.
https://www.fullfatrr.com/forum/topic56162...tty+affair

The one on the right (drivers side UK) has been repaired but tbh it looks as dodgy as the Olympics opening ceremony. Will be addressing that. The wiring not the Olympics thingy...

Would that have such a wild ride effect on the suspension height settings?

Do you have a GAP IID tool ? If so check the height values and calibrated values and see if the actual values are talying with the actual height of each wheel. Also check the 4x4 screen to see if the suspension indcators are all level. If it's an adaptive dynamic fault with the shock absorber internals or wiring at the top it wouldn't mess with the height control. Faulty height sensors ( internl or linkage) or wiring are a likley culprit as these also send adaptive dynamics data. 2012 TDV8 Vogue (L322)

The display in the car shows level until the suspension drops to the stops. It does show correctly that it's dropped.
I only have icarsoft code reader but I think k i can calibrate the height sensors with that..at least I can check

JayGee wrote:

Do you have a GAP IID tool ? If so check the height values and calibrated values and see if the actual values are talying with the actual height of each wheel. Also check the 4x4 screen to see if the suspension indcators are all level. If it's an adaptive dynamic fault with the shock absorber internals or wiring at the top it wouldn't mess with the height control. Faulty height sensors ( internl or linkage) or wiring are a likley culprit as these also send adaptive dynamics data.

Because I went underneath to check the height sensors I can see the Front near side CV Boot is split and the height sensors on that side looks to be caked in grease..that's a highly likely fail..it's MOT fail.anyway with the CV boot

Another job.

Update..fairly obvious conclusion this morning. Front right air suspension very obviously leaking at full height but not so obvious at normal height.

Will change out the airbag and see what happens then. Suspect that's a fairly conclusive issue anyway.

So out with the old and in with the new.

But what the heck is with the wheel nuts! Was nearly stumped at the first hurdle. The wheel nuts have some sort of chappy cover on them which have all swollen and made it almost impossible to remove them. Anyway Bruce force got the socket on and destroyed the covers getting it back off!

The only other difficulty was the lower strut bolt but I was ready for that. I uploaded some pics hope they work OK.

the wheel nuts ( especially on the passenger side ) all swell up to 23mm as well, the rust and corrosion is pretty horrific

I now regularly take the wheels off ( check for any wheel nut swelling, replace with new 22mm nuts if necessary, about £2 quid each ) and then clean the studs with a very small wire brush and apply a little Ultra Tef Gel on the studs, then hand torque the nuts to 140Nm

New 22mm Nuts are LR part LR068126

There shouldn’t be any lubricant on the threads as this will reduce the self locking ability at the tightening torque. Just regularly loosen and retorque them if you are worried about them seizing in the threads. 2012 TDV8 Vogue (L322)

>There shouldn’t be any lubricant on the threads

even a tiny amout as a corrosion eliminator ?

No. They are dry torque settings. You would need to tighten the studs more to overcome the loss of friction but then you maybe getting near the elastic limit of the studs and there is a risk of stretching them. You are dealing with a lot of rotating mass + a lot of sprung mass so getting the wheel fasteners on spec is I would say more crucial on a big 4x4 like this than a normal passenger car. I would have really expected LR to have a 6 bolt fitting for this application. 2012 TDV8 Vogue (L322)

understood, makes sense, thank you

have removed one wheel and wire brushed the studs clean and dry, but have used a little Tef-Gel in the area where the wheel nut sits - where all the corrosion mainly builds up in the photo below, the contact with alloy and steel bolts (hopefully stop any galvanic corrosion occuring in the meantime)

Click image to enlarge

pcourtney wrote:

the wheel nuts ( especially on the passenger side ) all swell up to 23mm as well, the rust and corrosion is pretty horrific

I now regularly take the wheels off ( check for any wheel nut swelling, replace with new 22mm nuts if necessary, about £2 quid each ) and then clean the studs with a very small wire brush and apply a little Ultra Tef Gel on the studs, then hand torque the nuts to 140Nm

New 22mm Nuts are LR part LR068126

So who is responsible for designing shi t like this! Fixing a problem that never really existed and causes an issue that should never happen...
Although the same basic roots design house..BL did design aluminium wheel nuts for the Stag...and then tyre fitters were given impact wrenches...

New wheel nuts are on the way.

not only BL, Land Rover and Triumph Stag, but my Jensen Interceptor ( 1966 to 1976 years ) all had alloy wheel nuts (lug nuts) onto steel wheel bolts, I have to hand torque the alloy nuts every time I take her out for a spin, the factory manual states 70Nm ( in old money 55 ft-lbs.) which is half the torque needed on our 22mm nuts for the Range Rover !

I invested in a nice ( for the price £25 - not too bad quality either ) torque wrench that lays behind the drivers seat in the Jensen

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/363918712216

Last edited by pcourtney on 3rd Aug 2024 3:14pm. Edited 1 time in total