Changing the brake lines ready for MOT. Got LR lines from the dealer ready to go in my 2010 3.6.

Silly question, but do I need to disconnect the battery? I am used to BMW where disconnecting the battery for a while usually causes a module to go pop.

Can I leave the LR battery connected? Need to drop the shock at the rear to get the pipe in.

I’ve changed a few in my time and never even thought about disconnecting the battery.
I can’t see any reason why you would need to. Got - 2017 SDV8 Autobiography in Loire Blue
Had- 2008 TDV8 Vogue SE in Java black
Had - 2007 S/C in Stornoway Grey

How long did it take? I figuring it's gonna take me a while just to get the thing in the air safely, let alone getting the stuff off and threading through the new lines.

Was going so well, original Range Rover lines in, subframe dropped, damper out on passenger side to route through.

Then, a stuck old flexi onto the lines, one side with blow torch, perfect, popped off. Drivers side, well there was a big bang and a lot of air, guessing I’ve gone through a pipe that supplies the air tank.

Suspension hadn’t gone down (annoying, I can’t seem to get the damper back in).

Has anyone cut and joined the air lines?

Cut and joined air lines on my old P38 and my Discovery 4 when swapping to an AMK compressor.

Land Rover dealers used to and I assume still do sell joiners to do the job.

I went to advance factors for the 6mm in-line joiner.

The hole was right by the edge of a retaining clip to the underside of the body, so guess had already deteriorated over time rubbing and a bit of heat made it pop.

Changed lines, original parts, front to back.

Changing them didn’t actually take that long, what took time was getting nervous about the car on jack stands on a narrow driveway. As soon as it’s jacked up, it goes into extended off road mode. It meant I couldn’t get the shock into the top mount.

I used gap tool to drop corners (didn’t know menu, hoped it would let me pick a corner) all corners dropped…. So I had the front, road wheels on, on bump stops, and back sky high, so kinda a brown trouser moment.

Doing that, meant I could get a jack under the passenger side to line up the damper back into the mount. Then get access to put an inline connector on the drivers side.

The fuel tank guard is a pig to get back, with crap access and nut’s that want to cross thread. Took about 30 mins off messing around.

What I have learned, is tool organising is key, you can spend so long swapping out tools and finding stuff, and I need to improve on that.


I got an Amazon bolt remover kit for the job, brilliant. Couldn’t have done without. Got an M18 fuel Uga Duga gun, unbelievable how it took stuff out with zero stress.