Hi ive got to replace my rear flexi lines up on my L322 2012 im also thinking of replacing the front to rear lines at the same time - i have got a brake flaring tool etc to do it and im told that you need 3/16 pipe and metric unions- has anyone attempted it - id rather use copper and do it myself than struggle to route OEM steel lines through the subframe

Not done it myself but the recommendation is to use kunifer rather than copper. John
2008 Stornoway Grey 3.6 Tdv8 Vogue
2005 TD6 Java Black Vogue - Written off!!
GAP iiD BT
2003 Discovery TD5 Auto, Nanocom Evolution - gone to a new home!
MasseyFerguson 152 - No electronics!! - Sold

I stripped out the front wheel well cover to expose the unions and the front to back access is okay. A mobile mechanic came to me and made up the lines and said the rear over axle line was a bit fiddly but not horrendous. One of the front to back lines has a slightly bigger diameter union (on my 2004 anyway). I took the old joints to a motor factor and got new ones that were the same but don't know what they were.

Click image to enlarge

Not a difficult job, just a bit fiddly. Done it twice on two different L322's (a 2002 and a 2011). Allow a good half a day if doing this on axle stands.

The pipe from left to right across the back can be a bit awkward if you're underneath the car on axle stands - but all doable. Defo needs changing as it always goes. Might as well do the lot. The front to rear pipes corrode at the clips as they seem to be a water trap. Shocking given they're hidden from a tester's view with the cill covers on. When I did the 2002 car they literally fell apart if bent even slightly!

This is all a few years ago now (so memory is fading) and I can't find the photo's, but you have to remove the fuel tank under-guard as well as nearside cill trims. The pipe routing get's a bit tight near the tank. I seem to remember I followed a slightly different route and went around the tank rather than over it. I also put an extra connection in there for both pipes, that the factory pipes don't have just ahead of the nearside wheel-arch.

I re-used the LR fittings at the front (ones in the wheelarch), as one is bigger than the other, so they don't get mixed up when being assembled. You should be able to join the new pipes there as it's unlikely the run from the ABS pump to the wheelarch will have gone.

Make sure you don't mix the pipes up (left & right), otherwise ABS application could get a bit tasty!

I used a Sealey bench mounted brake flaring tool, a cheap Ebay hand held pipe bender is also handy. Yes it's 3/16ths and 10mm metric fittings. As stated re-use front LR fittings and I'm pretty sure when you say copper, you mean the Cunifer copper alloy? A roll of Ebay for £12 (or whatever it is now) is more than enough for the job.

Good luck

Jon

I'll keep looking for the photo's. 1992 RR Classic 3.9 efi Vogue
2014 Disco 4 HSE
===================
Both my fatties now gone...
Previous: 2011 L322 4.4 TDV8 Vogue SE /// 2002 L322 4.4 V8 HSE /// 2009 Discovery 3 2.7 TDV6 XS /// 2004 Defender 90 TD5 /// 1993 110 V8 Snatch Landrover /// 2005 Discovery 3 2.7 TDV6 SE (Aus) /// 1990 110 Isuzu 3.9 County (Aus) /// 1976 Series III Trayback (Aus)

Thanks Guys thats kinda what i thought ive got the new flexi pipes so i'll go and get the pipe and fittings and get on with it

for a 2002 FF but this might help,

https://www.fullfatrr.com/forum/topic25799.html ... - .- -.




Y. O. L. O.
.

I did mine back in the day too. Wasn’t too hard really once you expose the routes you need. I made a join in the pipes so that I could the rear drivers side run in 2 sections. one front to rear, and the second section that went across the top of the subframe area. V8 or else ...

thats what i did - in 2 sections easy job with my fathers nipple forming sykes pikavant tool

I had a rear brake pipe go on my L322 and it was holed just the other side of where it goes into the bodywork at the front of the wheel well. I decided it was much easier to add in a new section of copper pipe than replace the back to front entire length and although there isn't much room to get a flaring tool into the inspection opening there was sufficient with a bit of swearing to make it the correct choice.