Morning,
Is there a way to temporarily plug a leak in a front airbag so that I can get my SC to the garage (20miles) without knackering the relatively new pump as I've just driven six miles and got the 'when cooled' warning on the display? Range Rover 4.2 SC
2 Range Rover Classics - one from new but both rusty now.
Rover 3.5 Coupe had since new.
Subaru Legacy 3.0.
BMW K1200RS.

If you can see where it's leaking from try some strong repair tape or an innertube repair patch. If you have a GAP IID tool see if a drop in the overall ride height will stop the leak as it's usualy on the fold. I did this and it got me home. 2012 TDV8 Vogue (L322)

I'll give that a go - many thanks. Range Rover 4.2 SC
2 Range Rover Classics - one from new but both rusty now.
Rover 3.5 Coupe had since new.
Subaru Legacy 3.0.
BMW K1200RS.

Pull the fuse for the suspension compressor and drive it like a granny on the bump stops

Potentially you can use an umbrella patch but it takes a bit of effort to get it in from the outside as they're designed to fit from the inside out, and chances are you could make the leak worse, but I have done it on my P38 before and it does work with liberal amount of rubber solution glue, (bike repair kit.).

If you've not heard of an umbrella patch before, see here. https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/322474388601?va...ShEALw_wcB Fuji White / Jet 2012 4.4 TDV8 Westminster

Trouble is if it's like mine and the leak is the result of the rubber perishing rather than a single hole anything too invasive may just make it worse. Luckily the rubber is reinforced with a textile mesh so you won't have a blowout.

Click image to enlarge

I think the odds will be against me as I believe that they have not been replaced before and they will be perished. Will be checking this morning when a mate arrives to help Range Rover 4.2 SC
2 Range Rover Classics - one from new but both rusty now.
Rover 3.5 Coupe had since new.
Subaru Legacy 3.0.
BMW K1200RS.

It's not too difficult a job to remove the strut and swop over the airbag if you have the right tools and there are plenty of how-to vids on youtube. The garage will likley want to just replace the whole strut. Also if one side has failed you are best off doing the other side as well as the rubber will be in the same state. 2012 TDV8 Vogue (L322)

Yeah, once it's cracking it's only a matter of time before it's scrap, better to change now while you can than temp fix it and then be stuffed later. Also, if that side is gone, you can ssume the other side is not far behind. Fuji White / Jet 2012 4.4 TDV8 Westminster

Filled the hole with flexible JB Weld type stuff and taped it up. I won't use the car again until it's time to drive to the garage. . . .

They will change complete struts on both sides as the shock absorber elements will probably be knackered as well.

Next question - should the rears be changed as well? Range Rover 4.2 SC
2 Range Rover Classics - one from new but both rusty now.
Rover 3.5 Coupe had since new.
Subaru Legacy 3.0.
BMW K1200RS.

Jack up the rear to fully extend the airbag and examine the condition of the rubber on the fold. Mine was Ok so although I had bought new bags I elected to keep the old ones in place. Another poster said the rears don't fail as often as the fronts. My shock absorbers after 170k miles were still in very good working order and after changing all 4 there is only a slight improvement in feel so don't assume yours need replacing just because they are old. If I could wind back the clock I'd have just replaced 2 front air bags and saved over £1k in parts which would be an even biogger saving if I had paid to ave teh work done by a garage. 2012 TDV8 Vogue (L322)

JayGee wrote:

It's not too difficult a job to remove the strut and swop over the airbag if you have the right tools and there are plenty of how-to vids on youtube.

Also agree it is far easier and straight forward to swop the bag and strut at the same time. Lot of horror stories about getting the bag to reseal when you only replace that not the whole thing. 2011 L322 Autobography - a lot of bells and some of the whistles...owner with no idea!

I removed the bag from the strut a week later when it was in my workshop and it was apparent replacing it woud have been quite easy and certainly worth the cost saving over replacing the whole strut. Just changing a strut is very easy and easier than expected and can be done in less than an hour each side. If the car doesn't have the variable dampers then the cost savings are probably not worth it. 2012 TDV8 Vogue (L322)

Well it's back and I'm glad the whole struts were replaced as I hadn't realised how 'woolly' the car had become. It's much more responsive when cornering etc. The replaced struts were the originals. . . Range Rover 4.2 SC
2 Range Rover Classics - one from new but both rusty now.
Rover 3.5 Coupe had since new.
Subaru Legacy 3.0.
BMW K1200RS.