After over 11 years of fabulous ownership, things have come to a head.
My fatty is feeling rather sorry for itself. Do I spend a lot of time and money sorting the following?
Replace corroded brake lines.
Replace servo/master cylinder and associated vacuum piping.
Repair sills at rear and rear arches.
Repair/Replace drivers heated seat.
Replace air con pump.
Fix sat nav.

Purchase a later generation L322
Purchase a L405

Throw in the towel and get a Ford mpv/estate? Previous cars:
S-Max 2007-2013 (only diesel I've had, good car but expensive when diesely bits go wrong, so what's the point?)
Galaxy 2001-2007
Mondeo Estate 1997-2001
Sierra Estate 1993-1997
Uno Turbo 1987 -1993
Fiesta 1984 - 1987
Fiat 127 1982 - 1984

How much do you like the car?

Only you can decide the answer, but if you're comfortable that having spent the money on this vehicle you're going to be happy driving it for another n years then spend the money.

If you can do any work yourself, there's nothing on that list that's truly terrrible - the biggest 'thing' is probably the sills/arches which would benefit from a professional repair unless you're a capable welder/painter/fabricator (although repair panels are available). The rest is just pure spannering - a few weekends' work for a competent home mechanic.

If you want to move it on, consider how much it's actually worth with a bunch of things needing doing - that will help focus your mind on what you can afford/want to spend on a replacement. 2012 (L322) 4.4TDV8 Vogue SE, RSE, Fuji White over Arabica.
Previous V8s: BMW 645Ci, P38 4.6, P38 4.0, Merc CL500
Previous others: Honda x1, Volvo x7, Rover x6, BMW x6, Ford x1, Mercedes x2, Skoda x3, VW x2, Renault x2, Citroen x1, Mazda x3, Nissan x1, Audi x3, Kia x1, Fiat x4, Subaru x3, Austin x2, Triumph x2, Jeep x2, Hyundai x2, Lexus x1, Mitsubishi x1, Saab x2... and some others I've forgotten!

appj62 - did if fail the MOT then ? if it did what were the fails ?

I guess it depends on what you swap it for.

Your list doesn't seem huge if your handy with the tools, and if you buy another one you have the risk there may be something wrong with that one unless you can get a good warranty.

Better the devil you know in my opinion, but depends on your attachment to the car you have, if you've lost confidence in it then get rid, but buyer beware, you may jump out of the frying pan into the fire.

Wow, how many metaphores can you get into one email.

Andy Fuji White / Jet 2012 4.4 TDV8 Westminster

Still got 9 months MOT.
Forgot to mention rear sub-frame bushes showing signs of wear as well.
At my age I'm fed up of rolling around on the floor. Lots of sucking of teeth by my local mechhy. Previous cars:
S-Max 2007-2013 (only diesel I've had, good car but expensive when diesely bits go wrong, so what's the point?)
Galaxy 2001-2007
Mondeo Estate 1997-2001
Sierra Estate 1993-1997
Uno Turbo 1987 -1993
Fiesta 1984 - 1987
Fiat 127 1982 - 1984

Being under the car is what keeps my dry in the winter and shaded in the summer, best place to be.

I could of course buy a Kia and spend all of that free time in the house wearing out my favourite armchair listening to my old lady harp on about whatever it is she gabs about these days.

Andy Fuji White / Jet 2012 4.4 TDV8 Westminster

Quote:

listening to my old lady harp on about whatever it is she gabs about these days.

Quote:

listening to my old lady harp on about whatever it is she gabs about these days.

We are talking about your 4.2 SC?

I would fix her up and keep going, such a special car. 2012 4.4 TDV8 Westminster - Baltic Blue, Jet interior
1997 P38 2.5 DSE auto & 1998 P38 2.5 DT Manual
1988 Vogue 3.5 EFI - Manual, gone.
2004 Volvo C70 2.0T convertible, had since new.
2007 Mazda MX-5 2.0 Sport Roadster/Coupé, had since new.
2024 Mini Cooper S cabrio, JCW kit, 2.0, DCT auto

keep have gust sorted rusty bitts on mine every thing working except tv and sat nav ................

Replace corroded brake lines.
Fairly simple, and the copper will last for ages.

Replace servo/master cylinder and associated vacuum piping.
Shouldn’t be too hard either

Repair sills at rear and rear arches.
Not something I’d tackle myself, but a decent body shop price will be less than a car change.

Repair/Replace drivers heated seat.
Fart harder and more often … will soon warm you up.

Replace air con pump.
Bolt off and on, plus a recharge.

Fix sat nav.
Whats wrong with it.

Purchase a later generation L322
You’ll run into the same issues, but just a few years down the line. Plus I found the second L322 never quite had the same appeal as first time round.

Purchase a L405
Its a nice change. Different set of problems.

I always look back and think “ I’d have been cheaper fixing it, than changing it “ … but the change is nice too! V8 or else ...

appj62 wrote:

Replace corroded brake lines.
Replace servo/master cylinder and associated vacuum piping.
Repair sills at rear and rear arches.
Repair/Replace drivers heated seat.
Replace air con pump.
Fix sat nav.

What are the colour and condition of the seats and door cards like? If Ivory and excellent, drop me a PM then scrap it 😊😊😊😊😊😊

appj62 wrote:

After over 11 years of fabulous ownership, things have come to a head.
My fatty is feeling rather sorry for itself. Do I spend a lot of time and money sorting the following?

What engine & gearbox is it ?
I ask, as it brings in questions like 'When was the gearbox last serviced, and how long will it last?'

Other than the sills, any decent garage should be able to sort out your little list.

Don't scrap it, get a few quotes from local and slightly further afield specialist garages.
Alternatively, advertise it on here for sale as you know someone will have it off you (Just noticed you may also be local, not that i need a third.... But do pop up pictures etc)

As has been said you will have issues with any other car you buy at least yours will be sorted and good for a few years
Mine is on nearly 250k and I spend about 2 to 3k a year on maintenance etc but do a good few miles a year. I looked and to get the same spec on a 405 I was north of 40k