kingpleb wrote:

Looks fantastic!!

You ran into the same issue as me, nowhere was interested in making one other than a bespoke unit for a 4 figure sum!

Interesting you used the D3 unit as I was looking at using one from a P38 or XJ jeep so it would run along the wing.
What have you done about the elbow and airbox inside as thats not water tight from the wing to the inlet? Also the Axle breathers come up in the engine bay so these could get plumbed into the post airfilter but pre turbo pipework to keep them only using clean air.

kingpleb wrote:

The next big thing you have to do if you haven't already is seal the cabin supply box up. Dont faff around too much with this as i found spending 10minutes taking it off and cover the firewall/bulkhead tubes was the easiest method.

The doors and stuff you should fine are fine as they are double sealed but remove the seals if they look even slightly funny and feed them rubber feed like the gummi phelge stuff reccomended on here somewhere to keep them soft! i've had water up the side windows on the passenger side and coming over the windscreen on a water crossing before and not suffered from it due to the engines air pocket and the water height dropping massively on the drivers side so it was well under the wing intake

kingpleb wrote:

Glad to see some more MTR's being used in anger! If they ever wear out look to get the Scorpion ATR tyres as they are getting great ratings on the disco forum and dont suffer like the MTR's do when used on the road in wet weather

Brilliant good job

Weejock wrote:

Now that is an impressive install! I can certainly appreciate how much effort has gone into that and it makes it look like a factory kit too.
Out of interest what else are going to do prep wise for wading? The amount of electrics would worry me plus the aging door seals! Incidentally I came across 'CorrosionX' for another project which is used in the US military on aircraft for corrosion protection with having the adding benefit of making electrical connections water resistant. It's like a thick WD40 but with high di-electric strength so even circuit boards can be coated in the stuff. Might be worth spraying your electrics with some.

Very impressive work something I shall probably do to my FF when the warranty expires. Although half-tempted to see if I can make the entire intake out of carbon fibre (convenient thermal chamber at work!).

If you want to seal electronics then this stuff is literally magic gel. Simply mix the parts and pour in. You can peel it off if needbe and adjust components and IP68 rates everything contained within it.

Not the cheapest of potting materials but easily removable and really is the bees knees.

The big inlets in the boot area are the breathers either side of the boot. you can seal them as they are just plastic cartridges so can be pulled out and a blanking plate made and glued in place using windscreen adhesive.

The boot seals would be my next contender and a check on the grommets in there as well. A Vaseline lube should help there as well.

I forgot to check and you have the 4.4 where as i have the TD6 and haven't really seen a 4.4 in detail under the bonnet.

The heater box seal you've suggested will work a little but there are still gaps around the heater filter box air can get in so removal would be my recommendation to allow plugging it and just leave the car on air recirc also turn your AC off before entering deeper water as it will cut the electric fan out as this is at the front if its at any speed it could damage it but they are 3 speed fans so if the engine is toasty it could be at full speed, especially off-roading at low speeds...

You could in theory bag up the rear electrics but leave the top of the bag open so that they could vent, possibly thru the grille at the top of the plastic shelf above them? The amp may be more difficult but a sealed bag with small vent pipe and small fan in it to extract air upto the point above and another to allow inflow could work. FFRR MY06 facelift With TDV8 Alloys Zeros/ATR's
Mantec Sump Guard, Rigid Load liner, MY10 BT upgrade.

sako243 wrote:

Very impressive work something I shall probably do to my FF when the warranty expires. Although half-tempted to see if I can make the entire intake out of carbon fibre (convenient thermal chamber at work!).

If you want to seal electronics then this stuff is literally magic gel. Simply mix the parts and pour in. You can peel it off if needbe and adjust components and IP68 rates everything contained within it.

Not the cheapest of potting materials but easily removable and really is the bees knees.

kingpleb wrote:

The big inlets in the boot area are the breathers either side of the boot. you can seal them as they are just plastic cartridges so can be pulled out and a blanking plate made and glued in place using windscreen adhesive.

The boot seals would be my next contender and a check on the grommets in there as well. A Vaseline lube should help there as well.

I forgot to check and you have the 4.4 where as i have the TD6 and haven't really seen a 4.4 in detail under the bonnet.

The heater box seal you've suggested will work a little but there are still gaps around the heater filter box air can get in so removal would be my recommendation to allow plugging it and just leave the car on air recirc also turn your AC off before entering deeper water as it will cut the electric fan out as this is at the front if its at any speed it could damage it but they are 3 speed fans so if the engine is toasty it could be at full speed, especially off-roading at low speeds...

You could in theory bag up the rear electrics but leave the top of the bag open so that they could vent, possibly thru the grille at the top of the plastic shelf above them? The amp may be more difficult but a sealed bag with small vent pipe and small fan in it to extract air upto the point above and another to allow inflow could work.

The pump would be fine fully submerged if the seal is still place correctly, you just need to raise the intake for it leave as is as keeps the balance at the rear better

Amp removal and so on will help get rear weight down as well but put a few concrete slabs in there if your doing anything deeper than past the plastic door trim as the rear end will float easily enough as it is.
I avoided it by have 3 full jerrys in the boot, some waffle boards, the spare wheel and another spare, and other bits of kit  FFRR MY06 facelift With TDV8 Alloys Zeros/ATR's
Mantec Sump Guard, Rigid Load liner, MY10 BT upgrade.

Hi,

Pump on mine has the intake on the pump itself, maybe the later one is different...

I've got a heavy LPG tank in the boot to weigh it down, and when laning it's full of equipment that weighs a ton.... Pete

__________________________________________________
2014 L405 Autobiography SDV8 4.4 Loire Blue Ebony interior
2011 L322 Vogue SE 4.4 TDV8 Baltic Blue. Parchment over Navy Interior. Sold
2012 L322 Autobiography 5.0 Supercharged Ipanema Sand, Jet Interior. Sold
2002 L322 Vogue 4.4 V8 Epson Green, Ivory over Aspen Interior (Fatty Offroader) Sold
-Click for Project Fatty off roader-

You two do know you're allowed to drive around water right?  
07 Supercharged - Still breaking her in!

Boot soundproofing part 1 - http://www.fullfatrr.com/forum/topic15612.html
Custom exhaust - http://www.fullfatrr.com/forum/topic15296.html
18" wheels for Brembo equipped cars - http://www.fullfatrr.com/forum/topic15052.html

BORING^^^^

 FFRR MY06 facelift With TDV8 Alloys Zeros/ATR's
Mantec Sump Guard, Rigid Load liner, MY10 BT upgrade.

TheAllSeeingPie wrote:

You two do know you're allowed to drive around water right?

That would be just boring..... water is for splashing in.....  Pete

__________________________________________________
2014 L405 Autobiography SDV8 4.4 Loire Blue Ebony interior
2011 L322 Vogue SE 4.4 TDV8 Baltic Blue. Parchment over Navy Interior. Sold
2012 L322 Autobiography 5.0 Supercharged Ipanema Sand, Jet Interior. Sold
2002 L322 Vogue 4.4 V8 Epson Green, Ivory over Aspen Interior (Fatty Offroader) Sold
-Click for Project Fatty off roader-

You are like my girls, they think water is for splashing in as well. Needless to say we did a lot of driving around the very deep puddles today when it was hosing down here Not that papa likes any of that NOOOOOOOO  MY 2010 5.0 SC Galway green and sand interior!!
Have the Faultmate MSV2 Extreme to be tinkering with the settings etc. !!

looking to do the same do you have the molded for it how did take to fiit once the mould was done what size of pipe did you use, only in ossett m1,j40 not to far email 24paper24@gmail.com yours john holland

That was 10 years ago!!!!! I don't have the ability to make another elbow you would have to do it yourself...

All the info you need is in the original post, the pipe was a flexible 4" pipe that won't collapse under vacuum.

It is not an easy DIY job, you need some experience of fabrication otherwise you will suck in water and hydro lock the engine...

Also I don't know if the TD6 has the same intake as the 4.4 petrol, the later 3.6 and 4.2 S/C are different.. Pete

__________________________________________________
2014 L405 Autobiography SDV8 4.4 Loire Blue Ebony interior
2011 L322 Vogue SE 4.4 TDV8 Baltic Blue. Parchment over Navy Interior. Sold
2012 L322 Autobiography 5.0 Supercharged Ipanema Sand, Jet Interior. Sold
2002 L322 Vogue 4.4 V8 Epson Green, Ivory over Aspen Interior (Fatty Offroader) Sold
-Click for Project Fatty off roader-