Hi all in the L405 community.
June last year I sold my L322 Td6 and since then I'm looking for a decent follow up which I'm going to collect tomorrow: 2013 Tdv6 Autobiography.
On anticipation of the New one I read about the regeneration posts and the super informative contributions of member Kot
What I learned is that one of the important parameters for a successful regeneration (wether passive or active) is that there is a decent temperature in the exhaust. Now I think that if one can raise the temperature quicker and maintain it easier (before cooling down fast) it must make regenerations come more instantly when needed and also less prone to abort when you slow down and even perhaps they last shorter and thus delute the oil in a lesser way. It is possible to achieve this with an exhaust wrap
https://aztut.net/what-does-exhaust-wrap-d...s-and-cons
What do you think of my theory? Does this make sense? Don't I do any other harm to the engine, exhaust, DPF? Has anyone tried this before in respect of the regeneration problem?
Like to hear your opinions and possible experiences  2013 L405 3.0 TdV6 Autobiography Barolo Black
2004 L322 3.0 Td6 Vogue Cairns Blue (gone)
2000 P38 2.5 DSE (gone)

No. Why?

The normal operating temperature of the exhaust system is around 250C much depending on engine speed/load/rpm, but the temperature required for regen is 600C-650C, hence the need for diesel “post-injection” to really ramp up the temperature, a wrap simply can’t acheive that.

A wrap will reduce the effect of normal air cooling and may increase the effectiveness of passive regen, however I really do not belive this will be either economic or significant.

I have asked a few times on this forum “has anyone experienced a reduction in Soot % due to passive regeneration?” and had zero positive response. At best, passive regeneration seems to only slow down the advance of Soot build-up. I would be delighted to be proved wrong!  “If it ain’t broke, don’t fix it” -where’s the fun in that?

In my view not a good idea on any car, its a great place to fester unseen corrosion (wet and road salt) .

Also During the AR, the DPF and Exhaust Architecture could potentially exceed its higher temperature limits.

This would also increase higher than normal temps around the turbo's, as the Regen heat has less path to dissipate the heat, not good, especially if you have just stopped the engine and no oil circulation through turbo's.

Great on ships/power stations etc where people and equipment need protecting etc. 2018 SE SDV8 4.4 Byron Blue

@Kot: Some well-observed comments there.

And before anyone says “but the exhaust can’t rust, it’s Stainless Steel” Let me blow that idea out of the water (forgive the pun) the pic below is of stainless steel canopy supports on a boat, fitted with stainless steel bolts. If the dielectric conditions are right, it WILL rust, -there is still ferrous content in the metal.




 “If it ain’t broke, don’t fix it” -where’s the fun in that?

Rangie4fun wrote:

Like to hear your opinions

@cass
How do you properly drive the Car cass?

If the subject really irks you, what have you achieved by your comments? Just off the OP for no reason.

There are lots of folk who have never had a DPF/Regen problem but you only tend to read about those who have.

Question-Why do you still read about these post's then? the clue is in the subject line. 2018 SE SDV8 4.4 Byron Blue

Wow - someone pulled their huffy pants on this morning
Seriously, how to drive it properly - does this really need explaining? If it only ever gets used on lots of short trips, make sure it gets some decent runs to get up to temperature long enough to do a regen.
The subject doesn't irk me - the OP is considering mods on a car that they haven't got yet to fix a problem that they don't know they've got. All I've suggested is waiting to see if there is a problem to fix which sounds sensible to me.
Why would someone consider this? well if you start looking online it's easy to think that every other RR has DPF problems, I've simply pointed out that there are many, many cars that don't have a problem but nobody ever posts that online.
This does raise the question of how many actually do have DPF problems? I would start a poll if I knew how to, I'll guess at a very small percentage then if you remove those caused by tight fisted owners who haven't maintained their cars or used cheap oil and those who've "improved" their cars with cheap remaps, there probably aren't that many problematic cars.

I had the DPF replaced under warranty early into owning the RR. Even doing OK journeys not just short ones. I got an issue where I ended up having multiple failed regens in a row. So I had issues with a well-maintained car which does a mixture of journeys.

Now I monitor the regen for the last couple of years I have only had 2 or 3 failed. I also now get 750km between active regens. From reading the forum is higher than most people.


While reading about the regen process, the speed of the car and the outside temperature changes the cooling of the exhaust/DPF system. This then changes the amount of fuel which is injected. There is a calculation to heat the system enough. The wrap would mean the calculations are out of bounds. Which would cause more issues.

I think the best advice is to follow the monitoring idea that @Kot did the work investigating and documenting. SDV8 AB MY 2020
MINI Cooper S Cabrio
Kit: Jaguar XK140 (in progress - the website is link to build)

Thanks to all of your thoughts and explanations
Of course I have to experience what the car is to behave like before doing anything thing to it. First thing in row is to use my IIDtool to get more insights in the regeneration parameters of my car. I drove my first 200 km (all highway in the Netherlands @100km/hr) in my new Fullfat and I liked it And so far no DPF lights  2013 L405 3.0 TdV6 Autobiography Barolo Black
2004 L322 3.0 Td6 Vogue Cairns Blue (gone)
2000 P38 2.5 DSE (gone)

I think some folks need to do a lot more careful reading and better acquaint themselves with what they bought into with regard to “JLR remote DPF Architecture” especially before criticising other very well knowledgable, respected & helpful members who are only trying to assist others.

They just might save themselves a heap of money at the same time.

The DPF dashboard warnings are at best “idiot lights”, no more. Just because you THINK you don’t have a DPF problem, doesn’t mean you aren’t ever going to.  “If it ain’t broke, don’t fix it” -where’s the fun in that?

Deleted my previous rant re: “idiot lights” Geoff