Counterpoint - I've done somewhere around half a million miles in diesel vehicles with DPFs and EGR emissions control systems in the last 8 years, and 95% of that has been on whatever diesel is cheapest at the time - with no issues in any vehicle. All have done a mix of short and long journeys, but where they've only done short runs regularly, they've all always had at least one longer run every couple of weeks as a minimum.

As an aside, for a number of years I have done consulting work for a number of oil and gas refineries and storage and distribution terminals, so I've seen behind the scenes the differences between 'supermarket' and 'premium' fuels, and I don't buy in to the hype. 2012 (L322) 4.4TDV8 Vogue SE, RSE, Fuji White over Arabica.
Previous V8s: BMW 645Ci, P38 4.6, P38 4.0, Merc CL500
Previous others: Honda x1, Volvo x7, Rover x6, BMW x6, Ford x1, Mercedes x2, Skoda x3, VW x2, Renault x2, Citroen x1, Mazda x3, Nissan x1, Audi x3, Kia x1, Fiat x4, Subaru x3, Austin x2, Triumph x2, Jeep x2, Hyundai x2, Lexus x1, Mitsubishi x1, Saab x2... and some others I've forgotten!

Quote:

As an aside, for a number of years I have done consulting work for a number of oil and gas refineries and storage and distribution terminals, so I've seen behind the scenes the differences between 'supermarket' and 'premium' fuels, and I don't buy in to the hype

Well I thought I'd done with this thread BUT I'll share my experience in my lifetime I've done almost a million miles (surprised me as well) almost exclusively with Tesco fuel, all sorts of cars and vans never actually had a problem. Just like I've never had a problem with the short journeys I've done in my last three Range Rovers (so far). Although in fairness one was a petrol.

I'm not looking for an argument just sharing my experience  Geoff

I think most of the above views are largely subjective. The DPF warning lights on the vehicle are just “idiot lights” they don’t indicate failed regens or give any warning of what is happening with regard to oil dilution, which over time is more important than current DPF status, on the basis that a new engine costs more than a DPF clean or replacement. Whether you use supermarket or premium fuel, you can’t say you “never had issues” on the basis of a dashboard light which doesn’t really give you much information at all, by the time the lights come on, several failed regens have already happened and dilution has increased. Just because you can’t see what is going on, doesn’t mean nothing is going on!
Did anyone have an engine oil analysis for dilution level or metallic content of any of those vehicles?What were the results? Maybe you don’t/didn’t have “any issues” but will the next owner?  “If it ain’t broke, don’t fix it” -where’s the fun in that?

Bearing in mind from my example I've closely monitored diagnostics, am very familiar with emissions control systems and their unintended side effects in sub-optimal usage, with just me in the driving seat, changing the oil regularly myself (at 6 or 10K latest depending on the vehicle), and with at least weekly oil level checks and often more regularly, I'm pretty confident saying that I had no issues with oil dilution, failed regens, sooting, or storing up issues for the next owner.

And I actually have had oil analysis done before sale on several of my prior steeds, just for peace of mind for new owners and because I'm interested in it (and because I have worked with the industry I know some people in some labs so it doesn't cost me anything). 2012 (L322) 4.4TDV8 Vogue SE, RSE, Fuji White over Arabica.
Previous V8s: BMW 645Ci, P38 4.6, P38 4.0, Merc CL500
Previous others: Honda x1, Volvo x7, Rover x6, BMW x6, Ford x1, Mercedes x2, Skoda x3, VW x2, Renault x2, Citroen x1, Mazda x3, Nissan x1, Audi x3, Kia x1, Fiat x4, Subaru x3, Austin x2, Triumph x2, Jeep x2, Hyundai x2, Lexus x1, Mitsubishi x1, Saab x2... and some others I've forgotten!

@Danb,

Please understand, I wasn’t having a go at you or anyone in particular, so there’s no need to get all defensive. I note that your past experience is not necessarily with JLR vehicles, particularly those with their particularly flawed design acrchitecture relating to the remote DPF, therefore is largely irrelevant when comparing to these systems. It is only by actively monitoring in real time, that we can appreciate what is going on in the system, the vehicles warnings and service indications are simply inadequate, that’s all I was saying, and I think most will agree.  “If it ain’t broke, don’t fix it” -where’s the fun in that?

I'm not getting defensive. I was just filling in the blanks. 2012 (L322) 4.4TDV8 Vogue SE, RSE, Fuji White over Arabica.
Previous V8s: BMW 645Ci, P38 4.6, P38 4.0, Merc CL500
Previous others: Honda x1, Volvo x7, Rover x6, BMW x6, Ford x1, Mercedes x2, Skoda x3, VW x2, Renault x2, Citroen x1, Mazda x3, Nissan x1, Audi x3, Kia x1, Fiat x4, Subaru x3, Austin x2, Triumph x2, Jeep x2, Hyundai x2, Lexus x1, Mitsubishi x1, Saab x2... and some others I've forgotten!

Danb_220_2019 wrote:

Bearing in mind from my example I've closely monitored diagnostics, am very familiar with emissions control systems and their unintended side effects in sub-optimal usage, with just me in the driving seat, changing the oil regularly myself (at 6 or 10K latest depending on the vehicle), and with at least weekly oil level checks and often more regularly, I'm pretty confident saying that I had no issues with oil dilution, failed regens, sooting, or storing up issues for the next owner.

And I actually have had oil analysis done before sale on several of my prior steeds, just for peace of mind for new owners and because I'm interested in it (and because I have worked with the industry I know some people in some labs so it doesn't cost me anything).

Danb, this thread is for a L405, yours is a L322, there is a difference, and probably it is why there are a difference in opinions.

You have a completely different exhaust and emission architecture, also probably a different DPF software algorithm.
You consequently may have a reduced dilution risk, and also maybe not able to monitor what dilution you may have.

Guess you don't have or use the Remote app and therefore cant see your "miles to next service" reducing at an exponential rate (Ok slight exaggeration).

Probably (I dont know) your dash service light comes on when the basic service mileage countdown occurs, and with no influence from the inferred dilution algorithm. Maybe that tech was not available 12 years ago for L322?or due to architecture difference didn't need to? Never had a L322 so cant really answer that question.

You change the oil yourself, so do you measure what quantity comes out? I use a vacuum pump and get out 10 litres, and put in exactly 9.25 litres each time, so it's obvious dilution. I have had the dealer sample the oil dilution and confirmed at service it was 10% fuel dilution.

Interesting? how do you know you have not had any failed regens do you use a Code reader or GAP tool? 2018 SE SDV8 4.4 Byron Blue

Just a further question on this thread, my house has a linear driveway so three cars parked nose to tail. Sometimes if the Range Rover is at the back it has to be moved to let one of the other cars out and then put back. Would this be a "short journey" I obviously try to avoid it because I am old school and try to minimise starter motor wear and tear but should I be worrying (as if I haven't got enough to worry about) more about oil dilution and DPF clogging may be taking place than the starter motor. Geoff

Kot wrote:

When your DPF starts an active Regen it can easily take 20 mins to complete and of course first your engine needs to be warmed up to operating temps first, so any journey less than 30 mins is really a short journey and never gives your DPF chance to clean itself.
If you interrupt the Active Regen then more chance of unburnt fuel diluting Engine oil and as soon as you start the car again it wants to start another AR once Engine parameters are met. The cycle continues another short journey etc etc.

Good you are doing extra oil changes but I am also rural and do oil changes every 3 months when the system tells me on the remote app.

Argh - I promised myself not to use this thread again as my real life experience was described as subjective and I am an idiot because I do the heed the dashboard lights - as Meatloaf once sang "I can see paradise by the dashboard light" - well maybe 50 years ago  Geoff

Hi Geoff, very nice to see you back again
Another Meatloaf fan, eh? let’s Stop right there…..

Yes, the “Driveway Shuffle” (sounds more like 80’s disco than ML) is to be avoided, just watch the MTS plummet after several shuffles

I am always frustrated by the FF needing the engine to be started to pop up the selector just to get it into neutral to roll it a few feet forward or back on the driveway when putting tyreshine on, etc.

3-month oil changes? and I thought I was being good every 6 months. I’m going to do an oil analysis next month to check my 6m dilution level & hopefully calm my paranoia  “If it ain’t broke, don’t fix it” -where’s the fun in that?

Yes as Gremlin says just moving the car in and out of the garge saw my mileage to service drop rapidly last winter. overfinch modified

Thanks guys all noted,

Unfortunately I have a bit of a problem at the moment SWSMBO has recently had an operation and for the time being can't drive so I can either use her car (Mazda CX3 petrol) or the Range Rover to go on the short journeys to the shops, takeaways, hospital visits etc - obviously my preference is to use the Range Rover (hence the driveway shuffle) but I do try to get a long run in every week or so in fact will be doing one later today. I Change the oil at about 6 months with a suitable C1 oil (much discussed on here). I don't have the extra bit a pieces in the car to monitor dilution and soot levels I just drive and I never get the old oil checked I just throw it away. So far no problems, I did get reduced performance once but an unrelated issue and my Indie sorted it out, so as I said before lots of miles, supermarket fuel, occasional longer run and no problems so far (4 years with this one). Geoff

Just check the service indicator, I do very low miles and change the oil in between MD visits. I Changed the oil in November and the miles to service is showing 10000 the car goes in at the beginning of next month. overfinch modified