Yes sorry folks it’s not the best, I’ve now added it as “full size” but seems no better, perhaps someone has the original?

At least it proves I wasn’t talking BS!  “If it ain’t broke, don’t fix it” -where’s the fun in that?

You on the Red wine tonight?  2018 SE SDV8 4.4 Byron Blue

I’m definitely heading for regular oil changes in my new to me 405. When I picked it up in December, the service indicator showed 14,000 miles. Nearly 1,800 miles later, it’s now showing 9,000 miles, which I know is probably due to lots of shortish journeys.
MOT is due in March, so an oil change will also be on the cards, then I’ll invest in a Draper vacuum pump and I’ll be doing it myself between other work. Got - 2017 SDV8 Autobiography in Loire Blue
Had- 2008 TDV8 Vogue SE in Java black
Had - 2007 S/C in Stornoway Grey

@Kot:

You know I recommend nightly oil changes, what’s good for the car is good for the owner…. :hic:

Any red liquid, -it’s all the same to a Gremlin  “If it ain’t broke, don’t fix it” -where’s the fun in that?

How do you check when an oil service is due on the sdv8 ?

Thanks

I check the Incontrol Remote app in the Home screen/Status tab service due is at the bottom.

Click image to enlarge

Thanks 👍

I have just fitted an oil pressure gauge to the 4.4 TDV8 in my L322 which doesn't have a DPF but does mostly short runs in a warm climate. I found the hot oil pressure with oil that has done 10K kms woeful at about 10 psi at idle, needs 1800 rpm to get to 20 psi and 2500 rpm to get to 30 psi after an 8 km each way drive.

Prior to fitting, the gauge was compared with my long-time tyre pressure gauge, showing 2-3 psi more than the tyre gauge's 20 psi. The ambient temperature was 27 deg Celcius and the engine up to operating temperature after about 5 kms at 40-80 kph, judging by the coolant temperature gauge steady at the normal position.

The noted pressures are in line with the WSM's listed idle and 3000 rpm pressures, which IMO are well below what's needed to ensure decent bearing life, especially with the willingness of these engines to operate well below 1500 rpm and sometimes below 1000 rpm.

It's time for my normal 10K kms oil change, after which I'll post the hot pressures with Castrol Magnatec A5 5W30, with a change to the Start-Stop version of the oil.

With 10K km old oil just after start-up at around 30 deg ambient, idle pressure was showing 18 psi, 1200 rpm 40 psi, 2000 rpm 55 psi and maxed at 3400 rpm at 65 psi, presumably due to the pressure relief valve opening. These pressures are great for bearing life.

With new Magnatec A5 5W30 / Magnatec Start-Stop A5 5W30 in a warm engine, idle 12 psi, 1250 rpm 15 psi, 1500 rpm 19 psi, 2000 rpm 28 psi then maxed at 2800 rpm with 35 psi. This is a dramatic drop in pressure when warm even though new oil, so it's no wonder these engines end-up with bearing issues.

My '95 HGV's Detroit 60 series has 55 psi idling at 750 rpm, rising to 80 psi with a few revs, noting that it has a 2100 rev limiter.

I'll research a suitable 5W40 oil to try after 5K kms.

Slightly OT I know, but my TDV6 “big service” (belts) is due in a month or so, so I am taking the opportunity to fit one of these as a preventive measure, God knows why JLR didn’t include it in that service in the first place


 “If it ain’t broke, don’t fix it” -where’s the fun in that?

Is that a higher capacity pump and if so, do you have any comparitive specs?

Have you seen this Graeme ?

Laurie

@GraemeS:

No, it’s just a new JLR oil pump, I figured it’s got to be better than one that’s done 55K miles

The main reason to fit is as contingency against oil pump failure resulting in total engine failure (which is up to 40x more expensive than sticking a new pump on during the timing belt service).

There is an LR Time video where they fitted an aftermarket oil pump, and the oil pressures were much lower than the gen pump. (OT, but if you don’t already, subscribe to that channel on YT, it’s very addictive!). Ooooops silly me, that’s it above!  “If it ain’t broke, don’t fix it” -where’s the fun in that?

Thanks Gremlin500.
Earlier pumps don't have the idle bypass valve which I assume was introduced to lower idle pressure and hence fuel consumption and resultant emissions for presumably a higher capacity pump to try to avoid the bearing failures, hopefully not just reducing oil pressure at idle.

I'm aware of LR Time's work and videos.