Hi!

If I should ever need to be towed out myself from a rut or help someone - which point is best to fix a rope or kinetic energi recovery rope? the towbar or the rear lower hook/shackel? what I mean is the lower rear factory mounted shackel or similar on the l322. I believe there is some sort of shackel/hook in the front as well.

Which one is most likely to work best? I know that the towbar can take 3,5tons, whereas thats towing a trailer not pulling someone out (if there is a real difference)

Perhaps it makes no real difference as long as you have a good recovery rope.

If someone has some experience to share on this topic that would be great. I have limited experience and I'd like to learn more as I'm quite sure I will have to pull out my father in law at some point.

Happy new year and best regards,
Gus Fuji White 2011, 4.4 TDV8 Vogue SE

Hi,

What you are after is the "snatch rating", see the link below for some guidance, although I don't think it's going to give you the actual rating figures you are after. i.e. what can I trust ?

I believe the factory points on the L322 are rated @ 7 tonnes, (i.e. metric tonnes) front & rear, the towbar itself probably less, but you'd have to check with the manufacturer.

Bear in mind, you're talking about cars that are now 12 years and older, some with significant corrosion in the chassi so don't expect them to match the factory spec figures as new.

https://www.fullfatrr.com/forum/post538411.html

Cheers

Andy Fuji White / Jet 2012 4.4 TDV8 Westminster

Great! Thanks Andy.

Cheers,
Gus Fuji White 2011, 4.4 TDV8 Vogue SE

Whenever I have towed someone e.g. off a snow drift, out of a ditch, off tractor ruts, out of a muddy field, I have used the towbar. I carry a commercial rated tow rope with metal shackle at one end and a loop at the other. The loop goes over my towbar and the shackle is attached to a towing eye on the vehicle being recovered. I am neither brave nor experienced enough to try snatch recovery. This has worked fine on e.g. Discovery 2A, Jeep Cherokee and lighter, I have not needed to try vehicles heavier than my own. I tend to use low ratio. In situations where the towed vehicle cannot "help" e.g. wheels off the ground and on a steep slope, avoid ropes with inadequate breaking strain (or frayed/damaged).

When I have needed to be recovered off road I have been stuck in quite deep mud/peat and a 322 takes some moving from that, so it was a large 4wd tractor in each case. Attempts by e.g. a Classic RR/people pushing achieved no movement at all. In each case I was pulled forwards by a large chain attached to the eye in the middle of the front under the bumper, a plastic cover needs to be removed (by hand) to give access. I think one is advised to avoid being pulled backwards if possible.

The manual for my current car under "off road recovery" says that one needs special training and that one should look at the relevant section of landcover.com. I could not find that (and have had no training). There are some guides online e.g. on South African websites that look quite good, but the techniques there are, I think, beyond my needs.

I have tried to be realistic about what my car can do. I have known tractors, quads and even an Argocat get stuck, RRs need reasonably firm ground. On one occasion a friend got a SWB Series LR stuck in a ploughed field of very wet clay soil, in the dark. I walked the ground and it was clear that if I were to go into the field and attempt a tow I would get stuck too (despite Goodyear MT/R tyres) and so I drove off and fetched someone with a 4WD tractor. I have heard of situations in the highlands where people have tried to rescue others that had got stuck on leaving established tracks and where the rescuer then got stuck as well/damaged the vehicle. Only Range Rovers since 1988