Hello,

“Injector hose” means it has over fuelled and washed the cylinder bore / piston of lubricant causing the piston to partially seize. I hope I’m wrong with my thoughts !

I have seen this numerous times in the commercial vehicle industry, but have also seen TDV8’s do it.

We can all speculate & have opinions on this & even the most experienced standing next to it listening to it are going to struggle with identifying it.

Good call from Craig to look at oil filter - quick & easy to do.

If you decide to have the oil analysis a quick Google search it’s a round £ 65 for the full monty check.

Hi guys
Wanted to apologise for the delay I’ve had a bad flu/mild chest infection. It’s slowly clearing so back to the Range Rover we are. As there were a few suggestions for better diagnostic (diagnostic equipment) I bought a GAP tool to use side by side with the Hawkeye I already have. There are no faults showing unfortunately however. One of the main reasons I bought it is as a forum member said it would show if an injector isn’t functioning at full but I’m struggling to find this?
I’ve got screenshots below of the data I captured with the car idling.

As far as one of the comments regarding testing the injectors by unplugging them. What am I looking for exactly? Should the sound go away? Or should it not make a difference by unplugging?
Presumably unplug while the cars on? And after each one turn off clear the code and go to the next?

Ps I wanted to check injectors etc before draining the oil.

Click image to enlarge

Click image to enlarge

Click image to enlarge

Click image to enlarge

Click image to enlarge

Any thoughts on the above live data? Do they look normal? Any other GAP tests you guys recommend doing?
Thanks

Yes of course, if you have a knocking injector, unplugged it will stop the knocking yes… 👍

Thanks, will give that a try and see if the knock goes. I tried once before but the engine stalled, I think it’s because I unplugged one, replugged it then went to the next, I think because I didn’t clear the fault it stalled. So should I unplug one then replug then clear the code then go to the next injector?
Thanks
Ali

Yes my friend, you’ll find if you unplug one injector and start the car, if the nocking doesn’t stop it’s NOT that injector. If you then stop the engine, plug that injector back in and unplug the next injector, when you go to start the car, it should go into a fault mode and not start! It then requires a fault code reset via your OBD2 socket/diagnostic port to restart the engine… And so on and so forth until you have tried all 8 injectors. If the noise remains throughout! It ain’t an injector fault sir…

Hi

Sorry for my ill health I’ve been slow to get back to working in the rangie but a bit better so trying to crack on!

Did the injectors test and fortunately (or maybe unfortunately) by unplugging each one I didn’t find the noise got worse or better.

I’m sure it’s coming from the right hand side of the engine when looking at it from the front. I wonder as I’ve seen while looking through forums if it could be a damaged egr pipe OR similar. I still find it hard to believe it’s within the engine but as the tests are showing I’m running out of ideas and without the diagnostic equipment showing faults it’s trickey. The lack of info on these 4.4 Tdv8’s online don’t help either.

Any next move recommendations?

A reminder of the noise, its constant and increases if you increase the Revs. It’s as if you have a spanner rattling on it.

There is only 1 EGR valve and it's located in the V towards the back of the engine, with only a single exhaust feed from the cross-over pipe.

The injector pump is at the front on the passenger side, although if it was the source of the noise then I suspect that it wouldn't be operating properly so fault codes would be stored.

Thank you for your reply, is there a way I can test the injector pump without dismantling it? Sounds possible it could be the culprit as now I come to think of it the sound is coming from that area but never pin pointed it to the pump.

Any thoughts on how I can determine it’s the injector pump for sure?

Removing the sound insulation from around the pump might help but a stethoscope or large screw-driver touching various parts of the block and pump with the handle against an ear might be more revealing.

This is an old thread, but did you ever get to the bottom of this?