I’m looking to buy an impact wrench, mainly just for occasional use, wheel nuts, suspension work etc

Halfords have the Ryobi R18IW3 starter kit for about £140, it says 400nm

Any views/advice/alternatives?

Many thanks 2017 (67) Vogue SE Corinthian Grey

I have that bought as part of a kit with a drill and it works fine. Not had it fail to undo a nut so far and makes taking off wheels very easy. Not robust enough for workshop day to day use but perfect for the DIY'er. Impact wrenches realy are a fantastic bit of kit IMO for old cars as the percussive shock action will loosen rusted nuts way better than brute force torque. 2012 TDV8 Vogue (L322)

Perfect, thanks Jay 2017 (67) Vogue SE Corinthian Grey

Ive got a Dwalt DCF 18v impact wrench, only gets used for occasional and I only went for that as I have lots of 18v work tack. expensive option compared to the Ryobi but will undo most things.... There is nothing that can't be fixed with a hammer😜😜
FFRR 4.4 SDV8 Autobiography Santorini Black.
Fiat 500x 1.4 multiair Lounge 2015
2010 LR D4 Commercial 2.7 TDV6

I use a Dewalt cordless impact wrench, it has three settings, on max it is rated at 950Nm torque, it has been invaluable when working on my old RR, not cheap but very good quality

With the max torque, it has sheared stubborn rusted bolts, but with rusted fasteners I always replace them with new items anyway.

Do not UNDER ANY CIRCUMSTANCES use an impact wrench on bolts that go into aluminium mostly on the L405. The bolts/nuts are totally dry from the factory and an impact wrench will gall the threads or rip them straight out, use a standard big breaker bar and ease them out, working back and forward with plenty of your favourite penetrating fluid....

I can also recommend this stuff on reassembly, designed for marine use and works well.....

Tef-Gel

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/235297947667 Pete

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2014 L405 Autobiography SDV8 4.4 Loire Blue Ebony interior
2011 L322 Vogue SE 4.4 TDV8 Baltic Blue. Parchment over Navy Interior. Sold
2012 L322 Autobiography 5.0 Supercharged Ipanema Sand, Jet Interior. Sold
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Good tip Haylands I forgot about the modern world I was just thinking about my old bus, it's like me, a bit old fashioned and most bits still work

Good point Pete and I should have checked the OP's car profile as not much rust on a 2017 and the extensive use of alloy parts so it's likley an impact wrench may not be that useful apart from removing road wheels. 2012 TDV8 Vogue (L322)

...

There are impact wrenches and impact drivers. At 400Nm peak torque, I would say that is actually an impact driver, and won't pass muster on a big 4x4. Certainly it won't be much help getting ball joints and other suspension components off.

It would be ample for run of the mill cars, but big 4x4s that rust, absolutely not.

1,000Nm+ (ideally 1,600Nm+) is needed on one of these vehicles, plus a selection of breaker bars (I have a 1m bar, one telescopic bar and a rather useful ratcheting breaker bar). Alternating between shocking and torque back and forth is an effective way to get the most stubborn fasteners off.

For wheels, my personal preference is nice and simple - a breaker bar and a torque wrench with a deep socket. Gunning nuts (unintentionally) unequally can damage the nurling on the inside of the rim, causing it to become difficult to get on and off of the hub. It can also strip the threads from over-tightening (correcting a garage's up and repairing the threads is not fun!).

I did try a Kielder wrench, but was left deeply unimpressed the safety mechanism cuts in and stops the wrench after no more than 2 seconds - pretty useless for an impact wrench. 2015 Range Rover Autobiography 4.4 SDV8

A word of caution:

Seems to me that the Tef-Gel is a big no-no on threads, because it contains PTFE which remains on the threads as a lubricant. This results in a MUCH higher joint clamping force for a given applied fastening torque, so the joint is over-tightened, and risks stripping threads, shearing fasteners, and stressing or damaging components.
Almost universally, threaded fastener torques are usually calculated on the basis of dry unlubricated threads, notably those in the WM, so IMHO such lubricants should never be used to facilitate future joint disassembly.
The correct procedure is to use a disassembly penetrating lubricant such as Plus Gas, then preferably use a new fastener, or the original cleaned with solvent, on reassembly.
If an assembly lubricant is used, then the fastening torque needs to be reduced according to the changed coefficent of friction in the joint, however this information may be unavailable, or the new required torque value difficult to calculate accurately.
Further than this, some joints (brake discs and wheels are a good example) are not held in place by shear force of the bolts, but rather by friction of clean, dry assembly surfaces. When a lubricant is used, this scenario can change, resulting in the fastener itself being under shear, and failing.

My advice would be to stick to the WM procedure, it’s there for a reason  “If it ain’t broke, don’t fix it” -where’s the fun in that?

^^
I accept what you say but as someone who has lightly greased wheel nuts/ bolts for the last 40 odd years without issue l think you worry too much. Never used a torque wrench on wheel nuts, l simply tighten them by feel using a 600mm breaker bar.
Have you ever tried removing a landrover wheel at the roadside on a dark, cold wet night when the wheel nuts have been on for a couple of years having been put on dry, it’s well nigh impossible.

Wheel nuts are the one threaded component you should absolutley use a torque wrench and not grease the threads. As they are regularly undone and tightend ( unlike a lot of other fastners) overtorquing can stretch and weaken the studs. Undertorquing may render them liable to coming loose when subject to the stresses of use and grease will have the effect as per Gremlin500's explanation. Wheel nuts should never be left on un checked or un removed for years and should not to be an issue at the roadside. The only issue is the corrosion under the caps making fitting a socket difficult 2012 TDV8 Vogue (L322)

I have a suspicion l might have had landrovers longer than you.
As l say, never had an issue and don’t intend to change now.

 “If it ain’t broke, don’t fix it” -where’s the fun in that?