I’m experiencing quite a bit of turbo flutter at the moment. Typically when lifting off the throttle at low revs around town…. approaching a roundabout for example. It also seems to be more prominent in warmer ambient temperatures. I have no fault codes but have a strong suspicion that there may be an issue emerging.

I’ve read on here about issues with the secondary turbo actuator sticking but the flutter occurs well below the rev range where the secondary would come into play.

My understanding is that the primary turbo is variable vane…
1.) is there an actuator on the primary?
2.) is it likely to become sticky?
3.) can it be lubed?
4.) where is it on the engine?

I have a long run down to Cornwall and back early next month so if it can be lubed I’d like to do it before then.

The WM specifically for the 4.4 on the WIKI is missing the section on the Turbo system so I robbed this schematic from another post I found whilst reading up….. would some kind sole be able to identify the relevant components on it please ?

15 is the primary turbo.

Check the EGR throttle butterfly 7 for carbon build-up on the housing where the butterfly closes.

If your inlet isolation valve 18 is the early version that has a nut on top of the spindle then it may be sticking.

Ensure that the MAP sensor 14 is clean.


https://www.fullfatrr.com/gallery/albums/u...tions..pdf

What leads you to think this is 'turbo flutter' esp if it's at low revs round town? When I ran petrol turbo cars this was due to slamming shut the throttle plate at high revs between gears and the turbo bypass valve not working properly. 2012 TDV8 Vogue (L322)

GraemeS wrote:

15 is the primary turbo.

Check the EGR throttle butterfly 7 for carbon build-up on the housing where the butterfly closes.

If your inlet isolation valve 18 is the early version that has a nut on top of the spindle then it may be sticking.

Ensure that the MAP sensor 14 is clean.

JayGee wrote:

What leads you to think this is 'turbo flutter' esp if it's at low revs round town? When I ran petrol turbo cars this was due to slamming shut the throttle plate at high revs between gears and the turbo bypass valve not working properly.

Is your PCM s/w at the latest level? Mine is April 12 build but wasn't at the level that was released before it was built and the occasional flutter that it originally had hasn't occurred since updating to the latest level.

Hi I'm also having the same issue, when it does flutter it also splutters at low revs bit till I put foot down abit, my code reader is only picking up readings from 2 egr sensors, not all 4, I was thinking of gutting the dpf and mapping the egr and dpf out rather than spending a fortune on getting new sensors or a new egr fitted, would this work?

GraemeS wrote:

Is your PCM s/w at the latest level? Mine is April 12 build but wasn't at the level that was released before it was built and the occasional flutter that it originally had hasn't occurred since updating to the latest level.

Yes. Glenrands has the full LR system. Just as if you were in a main dealer but without the carpet, expensive costs and a salesman annoying the out of you  Gone to a good home: 2011 4.4 TDV8 Vogue SE Buckingham Blue with Ivory and clear glass = "Rory"
2025MY Defender D350 90 in Silicon Silver on coils
1974 Series 3 Lightweight = "Millie"
Many, many other Landies over the years
My preferred specialist: www.glenrands.co.uk
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Thanks for the info @DrRob I managed to get it booked in next Friday. Ross & team helpful as ever ! TDV8 4.4 2012

Ramblin Man wrote:

GraemeS wrote:

15 is the primary turbo.

Check the EGR throttle butterfly 7 for carbon build-up on the housing where the butterfly closes.

If your inlet isolation valve 18 is the early version that has a nut on top of the spindle then it may be sticking.

Ensure that the MAP sensor 14 is clean.

Thanks @GraemeS, I have the new style isolation valve. I’ll work through the other checks as soon as it stops raining here.

A big Thank-you ! to @GraemeS; your diagnosis was spot on, very impressive knowledge.

I inspected the MAP sensor today and found it to be heavily sooted. So I followed the cleaning instructions on the WIKI for it and the charge air temp sensor here:

https://www.fullfatrr.com/forum/topic48780.html

I found an air leak at the throttle body manifold joint and so have used the “PTFE tape” method to affect a running repair https://www.fullfatrr.com/forum/topic55270-30.html

until I can do the “3 O-Ring” fix documented here:

https://www.fullfatrr.com/forum/topic65345.html

So thank-you again ! Hopefully I’ll now have a trouble free run down to Cornwall and back next weekend.

The o-ring on the MAP sensor was worn and pinched in one area so I’ll replace that in due course once I’ve established the correct size.

I’m getting the S/W update done on Friday as my PCM is back level and there are several other up dates as well. So that should make a difference as too.

For Information:

I used WD40 specialist contact cleaner to clean both sensors :

Click image to enlarge

This was the state of the MAP & charge air temp sensor before cleaning

Click image to enlarge

Click image to enlarge

And this was the internal of the throttle body:

 TDV8 4.4 2012

Good to hear

Cleaned my MAP today too. I do it every 1000miles now  Gone to a good home: 2011 4.4 TDV8 Vogue SE Buckingham Blue with Ivory and clear glass = "Rory"
2025MY Defender D350 90 in Silicon Silver on coils
1974 Series 3 Lightweight = "Millie"
Many, many other Landies over the years
My preferred specialist: www.glenrands.co.uk
--------------------------------------------------

Hi quick update, I cleaned the butterfly valve, there was abit of crap but nothing major, cleaned the sensor on the intercooler pipe with brake cleaner, it was sooted up, no more spluttering,its more responsive, thanks guys for your advice

While you're in there it is worth removing the pipe from the EGR valve to the plenum chamber for a clean. It has about 6 holes that were completely blocked on mine. Don't know what they do but I presume they are there for a reason.

Chazmac wrote:

Hi quick update, I cleaned the butterfly valve, there was abit of crap but nothing major, cleaned the sensor on the intercooler pipe with brake cleaner, it was sooted up, no more spluttering,its more responsive, thanks guys for your advice

Good job!

I choose to order a new MAPT sensor and MAF intercooler pipe assembly. Should be able to fit them next week and do the autumn oil and filter change at the same time.

@Kevinp: good suggestion is the EGR pipe easy to get out ?

I had to defer the S/W update for a week or two but I’ll report back on the difference when it’s done.

With Fatties you’ve just got to keep going with planned maintenance for smooth running. TDV8 4.4 2012