Hi All,

Looking for a bit of advice please ...

Anyone know if the Bolts on the Front Hub have to be undone or can they, as I've seen on a YouTube video, be knocked out with a drift once the nut is off?

The reason I ask is the new bolts I been sent have a thread on the part of the bolt that sits within the hub - its also slightly wider in diameter than the 'nut end'...

...and yes....both mine are stuck solid.. I'm trying to fix a split CV boot.

This one -



Cheers Gavin

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Its not a thread on them, just concentric rings, there tight in there and one proved impossible for me to remove without putting things back together and taking it to a garage, who also had a hell of a job removing it....

Good luck 🤞 you can manage it

After the nut is off it is often easier to use a rattle gun on it and spin it to free the rusting, just trying to drift it out is usually the hard way....!! Pete
I now have permission from the boss to use Y.O.L.O. Enjoy life
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Thanks both - I've got the nuts off and managed to turn the top bolt (with a scaffold pole!) 1/4inch but that's it. Think I'll get some heat/Plus Gas on them and work on them slowly.

...I thought the bottom ball joints I replaced a few weeks back were a pain... and then I have the drive shaft to get out but I have a 10t puller for that if an air chisel doesn't free of the rust within... Gavin

2005 Range Rover Vogue SE 4.2 Supercharged V8

Follow my 4.2 Supercharged antics -
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If using heat just be careful that you do not put too much heat into the strut. Good luck

just done both front struts on mine took 2 hours to get drivers side bottom bolt out

Start with a 10ft bar and work downwards until they come out! PUT SOME COPPER GREASE ON THE BOLTS WHEN REINSTALLING

MR GLOVER wrote:

just done both front struts on mine took 2 hours to get drivers side bottom bolt out

Plenty of release oil, leave the nuts on the bolts but unscrewed about 5mm then a large hammer on the nuts. Intermittently put a socket on the bolt head and try turning it, then back to the hammer.
Mine came out this way although l had to renew one of the bolts.
I treated getting the 4 bolts out as an exercise on its own before removing the struts. Took out one bolt at a time cleaned and copper greased it and then put it back.
As a result when l came to change the struts the bolts came out easily, the first strut change took an hour and a half, the second one 40 minutes.
Unless you are very lucky l wouldn’t try to do the whole job in one go.

Thanks nicedayforit

I'll treat them just as I did for my suspension ball joints - plenty of preparation with the wire brush, Plus Gas and sockets/bars/prayers  Gavin

2005 Range Rover Vogue SE 4.2 Supercharged V8

Follow my 4.2 Supercharged antics -
https://www.fullfatrr.com/forum/topic63354.html
https://www.instagram.com/l322_supercharged/
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If you are going to do all the work on the Fatty yourself it does make a lot of sense to buy an electric rattle gun, what takes minutes with one can take hours with conventional tools... The first time you use it, it has paid for itself....  Pete
I now have permission from the boss to use Y.O.L.O. Enjoy life
__________________________________________________
2014 L405 Autobiography SDV8 4.4 Loire Blue Ebony interior
2011 L322 Vogue SE 4.4 TDV8 Baltic Blue. Sold
2012 L322 Autobiography 5.0 Supercharged Ipanema Sand Sold
2002 L322 Vogue 4.4 V8 Epson Green (Fatty Offroader) Sold
-Click for Project Fatty off roader-

Can you recommend one from personal use Haylands ?

I'm hoping to get access to a 1000Nm cordless one .... if that doesn't do the job then .....

cheers Gavin

2005 Range Rover Vogue SE 4.2 Supercharged V8

Follow my 4.2 Supercharged antics -
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Haylands wrote:

If you are going to do all the work on the Fatty yourself it does make a lot of sense to buy an electric rattle gun, what takes minutes with one can take hours with conventional tools... The first time you use it, it has paid for itself....

Sorry Pete I have to disagree, when it comes to these bolts being “properly seized” I literally use a 10ft truck 1” bar! Can take a good two hours a side! I have a class leading rattle gun and that would have no chance in moving “properly seized “ bolts sir…

That's interesting Craig, I must say the last few I have done have come out with a rattle gun but I guess they weren't as tight as some you see, I guess I've been lucky...

I know I used a 3/4" drive HGV rattle gun on a rear upper bush bolt on fatty off roader and that snapped the 20-25 mm bolt...

Cancel my last everyone, get a 10ft bar but please make sure the fatty is properly supported, with a lever that long you could easily knock it off the jack...!!

Superspoons, my home one is a 20v Dewalt which does work well, when I work on fatties I usually do it at my mates on a twin post ramp, with his air guns, it's just so much easier...  Pete
I now have permission from the boss to use Y.O.L.O. Enjoy life
__________________________________________________
2014 L405 Autobiography SDV8 4.4 Loire Blue Ebony interior
2011 L322 Vogue SE 4.4 TDV8 Baltic Blue. Sold
2012 L322 Autobiography 5.0 Supercharged Ipanema Sand Sold
2002 L322 Vogue 4.4 V8 Epson Green (Fatty Offroader) Sold
-Click for Project Fatty off roader-

It’s a bit of a lottery Pete… It’s not the nut and bolt that seizes, it’s the length of the bolt shaft that rusts, then seizes the 3 or so inches it spans the hub casting and air strut… 3 out of 10 will be easy. 4 out of 10 will be seized and the last 3 will be They are the ones you need the big kit for!