I did an oil and filter service on my L322 4.4TDV8 today. I used a Mahle filter and oil from Westway Lubricants. I got a 20L drum for £79.99 with free next day delivery. You really can’t beat that for value and I think they have a great reputation! I’m not sponsored or paid by them, I just think they do a great product at a fantastic price point!
https://www.westwayoils.co.uk/collections/...1791170748 if you’re interested.

Anyway, I did my usual service; this is the 3rd time in my ownership and I’ve been servicing every 6000 miles or so. I use a 12V pump to drain the bulk of the oil from the sump through the drain tube at the top of the engine. Once sucking air, I then get underneath and release the pipe to get the rest of the oil out. I normally get nearly another litre so really worth doing.

However, today I also did the second sump plug that is for the turbos. I tried doing it before on the last service but couldn’t get the plug to turn with my spanners and ended up rounding the bolt a little so gave up. Today, I decided it wasn’t going to defeat me:
- Spanners didn’t work. 12-sided just did more rounding, square jaw just wouldn’t grip.
- Locking pliers also couldn’t grip sufficiently. I tried and I tried to get them as tight as possible but no joy. FFS!!
- A trip to Screwfix and a pipe wrench later, we have movement!! I managed to loosen it off, finally.

Anyway, I then drained the second sump. I couldn’t believe the crap that came out, and this is why you MUST do this regularly if not already….here’s why:

The oil that came out of the main sump was spotless. Not a grain of dirt or metal particle in sight. The filter was the same. Spotless.

However, the oil that came out of the second turbo sump was full of grit and also had a small number of metal shavings in the sludge that were both metallic and magnetic. Obviously not good news. However, I strongly suspect that in the 110000 miles on the vehicle, the turbo sump has NEVER been drained. Fighting the plug to get it out was testament to that. The metal particles would normally be a major worry but, I’m willing to drive another 5-6000 miles and do another service to see what happens before worrying properly. The fact there were no particles in the main sump and also none in the filter gives me hope that the metal shavings are from initial engine wear when new. I replaced the sump plug with a magnetic one to make sure I can monitor this properly going forward. Details of plug here if interested:
https://www.opieoils.co.uk/p-84126-gold-pl...tid=132743


Long story short…DO NOT VACUUM OIL AND THINK ALL IS ROSY. If you have not already done so recently, you must must must drain from second sump. Make sure you don’t just drain and dispose, always check the residue with your finger and then a magnet and see what is in there.

I am optimistic that I don’t have a terminal issue and that my regular oil change schedule will get me on top of this very quickly with no more metal in the oil when draining. I am just trying to make the very clear point that you must must must drain your second sump and replace the plug on a regular basis if not already doing so! Use a magnetic plug like I have if you want to be 100% certain of what’s going on.

Good luck and make sure you give Westway Lubricants a look if you’ve not heard of them before… 👍 Andy

2010 4.4TDV8 Vogue SE in Santorini Black with Ivory interior
2017 Audi SQ5 3.0 V6T Quattro in Volcano Red
2001 Audi Allroad 2.5 TDI manual with low-range in Highland Green. Currently SORN whilst undergoing some serious restoration!

Hi Andy. How much oil do you think you got out the turbo sump?
Can you drain it independently or do you have to drain the main sump first?
Thanks Kev.

Probably not far off 1L in the second sump. You can’t drain independently as the two sumps are part of one system. There’s a ‘bridge’ between the two and the turbo sump is designed to retain oil at high inclinations so the turbos never go dry. However, I would recommend draining the main sump first as the turbo one can be messy due to the cross member in the way. Try and fashion some kind of funnel to minimise any mess. 👍 Andy

2010 4.4TDV8 Vogue SE in Santorini Black with Ivory interior
2017 Audi SQ5 3.0 V6T Quattro in Volcano Red
2001 Audi Allroad 2.5 TDI manual with low-range in Highland Green. Currently SORN whilst undergoing some serious restoration!

I suck out the oil these days but remove the turbo drain reservoir plug every 2 or 3 oil changes. I've given-up removing the pipe for the main drain due to only getting a few drips after having done the suctioning.

Where are the turbo sumps? If you drain the turbo sump are they fed fresh oil from the engine?

Anyone got an photo of the sumps? Kevin
2012 L322 Westminster 4.4 TDV8
1999 P38A 4.0 SE - Sold

Turbo drain point highlighted in yellow/orange in my previous guide:

https://www.fullfatrr.com/forum/topic60560.html

You can tape a plastic bag or sheet to the subframe then overlay with a rag, to prevent oil getting everywhere. The rag will ensure it gets soaked up and no drips.

You can also attach a piece of hose to a small funnel and hold in place to catch the oil as it drains.

As Graeme suggests, every 2nd or 3rd time is sufficient. 2015 Range Rover Autobiography 4.4 SDV8

Mine gets removed annually for a full drain type service at Glenrands.
I then just vacuum out at mid year oil change on my driveway using my Draper kit .


The Advanced Factor kit comes with a new turbo drain plug

https://www.advancedfactors.co.uk/kit114-m...9816-p.asp Gone to a good home: 2011 4.4 TDV8 Vogue SE Buckingham Blue with Ivory and clear glass = "Rory"
2025MY Defender D350 90 in Silicon Silver on coils
1974 Series 3 Lightweight = "Millie"
Many, many other Landies over the years
My preferred specialist: www.glenrands.co.uk
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garyRR wrote:

Turbo drain point highlighted in yellow/orange in my previous guide:

https://www.fullfatrr.com/forum/topic60560.html

You can tape a plastic bag or sheet to the subframe then overlay with a rag, to prevent oil getting everywhere. The rag will ensure it gets soaked up and no drips.

You can also attach a piece of hose to a small funnel and hold in place to catch the oil as it drains.

As Graeme suggests, every 2nd or 3rd time is sufficient.

Ajmngn wrote:

Probably not far off 1L in the second sump. You can’t drain independently as the two sumps are part of one system. There’s a ‘bridge’ between the two and the turbo sump is designed to retain oil at high inclinations so the turbos never go dry. However, I would recommend draining the main sump first as the turbo one can be messy due to the cross member in the way. Try and fashion some kind of funnel to minimise any mess. 👍

Thanks Andy/Gary, that’s useful information.
If you want a quicker reading on the oil level just press the cruise control cancel button twice with the bonnet open and it will give you a live reading.

The reservoir appears to prevent the primary turbo's drain pipe from emptying which would allow air up the drain as the pipe terminates below the fluid level. Both the 3.6's turbos drain to the reservoir but not the 4.4's secondary turbo.

Guys, dont take system wrong.
Hope this drawing I make helps to understand the system.
Only thing is turbo sump is not under the main sump, its on the same level, but cant show it in correct level on drawing.

Click image to enlarge

Gary good to know as im going to be doing mine this month..............had a look at the sump plug it dont says its for range rovers but i take it it fits fine and no leaking ?
thanks will

Will - I don't think you need to worry. This is a 4.4 TDV8 specific issue.

Unless your vehicle hasn't been updated, the 3.6 TDV8 doesn't have this issue to worry about. 2015 Range Rover Autobiography 4.4 SDV8

The 3.6 has both turbo drains feeding into a reservoir and not removing the drain plug is likely a contributor to failed 3.6 turbos.