My latest L322 is a mint example with no rust showing anywhere on it thankfully. Really relieved by that as the first time I saw it was after flying to London to collect it!

Anyway, I’d like to do some rust prevention to stop any of it setting in.

Common areas that I’m aware of are:

Tailgate:

I’m planning to get some spray cavity wax with a long nozzle on the aerosol and load the inside of the tailgate with it through the drain holes at the bottom in an attempt to stop it biting from the inside out. I’ll then make sure I keep the car thoroughly washed in the winters to make sure that there’s no salt lingering on the exposed edges.

Rear Door Shuts:

I’m going to remove the cill covers and treat any rust under them that might be starting to show. After that, I’m going to remove the bungs from the sills, and load the inner cills with the same spray cavity wax. Hopefully that’ll stop any visible rust from coming through into sight when the rear doors are opened.

Rear Quarter Panel/Wheel Arch:

This one I’m not sure of and not sure where it originates from. Does anyone have any ideas?

I’m not planning on dropping the subframe for rust protection or anything on this one as on my old one it grew arms and legs, I am going to give it to a local company called Preserve and Protect who specialise in undersealing vehicles.



Once that’s done it’ll be getting the wheels refurbished and the full car Ceramic Coated in order to add another layer of protection.

Any thoughts or suggestions on methods/products/etc. would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks,
David.[/u] 2002 4.6 Vogue SE - Alveston Red with Lightstone Leather
2007 Range Rover Supercharged in Java Black with Ivory Leather
2012 Range Rover 5.0 SC Autobiography in Indus Silver with Jet/Ivory Interior
2012 Range Rover 4.4 TDV8 Autobiography in Baltic Blue with Sand Interior

Hi David

On mine the tailgate is no problem, but I have sprayed cavity wax into it to be sure.

Cills I would liberally spray cavity wax but dont forget to clear the drain holes.

The leading edge of the rear arches seem to rust badly, there is a lot of areas in which mud etc can get caught behind the wheel arch liner, I have treated with Hydrate 80 and then added stonechip and will check yearly to ensure it doesn't come back. I think the jacking points are another entry for damp and crud so from now on I will remove each and retreat with cavity wax.

The same goes for the trailing edge of the arch, here it rusts from the inside. I think crud gets caught on the rear bumper bracket as well as behind the liner so again remove liner annually.

The arch lips I was going to add the Sport protectors but recent posts seem to suggest that this is not a good idea, I've yet to make up my mind on this one.

David Range Rover 4.2 Supercharged 2006
Ford Focus EcoBoost 1.5 2017
MG TF 2003

Previous Cars of note
Land Rover Discovery 2
Jaguar Mk2 3.8 - Company car
MG Midget 1974 - Concours

Quite a few threads on this topic and I’ve just done my rear wheel arch areas. My new friends are Neutrarust 661 and epoxy primer followed by paint and then wax of your choice.
I also filled my sills and to tailgate with Dynax cavity wax back in 2020.
I’ve also had the whole underneath treated with Lanoguard.
What product do P&P use in their process? Gone to a good home: 2011 4.4 TDV8 Vogue SE Buckingham Blue with Ivory and clear glass = "Rory"
2025MY Defender D350 90 in Silicon Silver on coils
1974 Series 3 Lightweight = "Millie"
Many, many other Landies over the years
My preferred specialist: www.glenrands.co.uk
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https://www.fullfatrr.com/forum/post667249.html#667249

Don’t fit rubber trims to leading edge of rear wheel arch! Gone to a good home: 2011 4.4 TDV8 Vogue SE Buckingham Blue with Ivory and clear glass = "Rory"
2025MY Defender D350 90 in Silicon Silver on coils
1974 Series 3 Lightweight = "Millie"
Many, many other Landies over the years
My preferred specialist: www.glenrands.co.uk
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I saw your post about those trims, that’s a shame!

Preserve and Protect offer Lanoguard as their cheaper solution but clearly state it needs redoing every 12 months. The main product they use is Dinitrol. They do an annual inspection on the under seal for £100 odd and if anything needs touching up then it’s done free of charge.

David. 2002 4.6 Vogue SE - Alveston Red with Lightstone Leather
2007 Range Rover Supercharged in Java Black with Ivory Leather
2012 Range Rover 5.0 SC Autobiography in Indus Silver with Jet/Ivory Interior
2012 Range Rover 4.4 TDV8 Autobiography in Baltic Blue with Sand Interior

Gotcha. I’d go Lanoguard all day long now.
It looks way better, less tacky, easy top up too via hand spray etc. Gone to a good home: 2011 4.4 TDV8 Vogue SE Buckingham Blue with Ivory and clear glass = "Rory"
2025MY Defender D350 90 in Silicon Silver on coils
1974 Series 3 Lightweight = "Millie"
Many, many other Landies over the years
My preferred specialist: www.glenrands.co.uk
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To stop the rot off the rear quarter panels, you need to tackle this from the inside. Water collects inside and has no drain. Remove the boot side panels and electrical stuff and have a look. If you already have rust spots on the outside, expect extensive rust problems.