stan wrote:

amazing stuff that Neutra Rust 661

makes sense to keep air flow around the problem area Rob..

DrRob wrote:

RR2B wrote:

A timely post - I was just about to fit the Freelander 2 protectors that have been sitting in the garage for 2 years! Kurust and Hammerite (old stock, full strength) is now the plan, served me well on the TVR chassis over the years.

I thought you'd had it Lanoguarded at Glenrands aswell?

Seems inevitable with these later cars, the rot will be in the sill as well.

Another job on my never ending list

No sill rot. Full of waxoyl from 2020 work 😂 Gone to a good home: 2011 4.4 TDV8 Vogue SE Buckingham Blue with Ivory and clear glass = "Rory"
2025MY Defender D350 90 in Silicon Silver on coils
1974 Series 3 Lightweight = "Millie"
Many, many other Landies over the years
My preferred specialist: www.glenrands.co.uk
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Ah didn't see it was you Rob

So.
Neutrarust 661

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Waxoyl will dry to a matt finish….
Will report back in a few weeks 👍 Gone to a good home: 2011 4.4 TDV8 Vogue SE Buckingham Blue with Ivory and clear glass = "Rory"
2025MY Defender D350 90 in Silicon Silver on coils
1974 Series 3 Lightweight = "Millie"
Many, many other Landies over the years
My preferred specialist: www.glenrands.co.uk
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Looks great Rob!

Even better with door shut and at night  Gone to a good home: 2011 4.4 TDV8 Vogue SE Buckingham Blue with Ivory and clear glass = "Rory"
2025MY Defender D350 90 in Silicon Silver on coils
1974 Series 3 Lightweight = "Millie"
Many, many other Landies over the years
My preferred specialist: www.glenrands.co.uk
--------------------------------------------------

I've now also taken the Freelander arch protectors off and yes folks - rust is forming

So now following DrRob's 4 step plan over the Easter break

1) apply NeutraRust 661 first 5L = £116 (more than I need, but have other cars to do)
2) then spray SOLL 400ml Black Epoxy Primer = £20 ( I bought 2 cans at £10 quid each )
3) then paint the arch with some Satin black matt that I already have in the garage
4) then Hammerite Waxoyl Underbody Seal 1L £15 (more than I need, but ..... )

When I had my rear arches replaced I asked the body shop to spray stone chip on that edge of the arch and it has remained perfect. I would advise people do the same! I’m guessing you could take your car in to any body shop and request they do just that for minimal cost. 2007 Range Rover Vogue 3.6 TDV8

Have any of you tried Bilt Hamber products?

I have had great results using them and por 15 for rust

https://bilthamber.com/

https://por15.com/ Dec 2011 L322 Range Rover Vogue SE TDV8 Orkney Grey/Sand leather

Big believer in built hamber stuff , use it all the time on customers cars and when I got my RR 8 years ago just about every bit of plastic was taken off under the car and it was coated with dynax or dynax underbody in the more exposed areas , sills and every bit of box section I could find was coated too inc bonnet and doors , 3 days in the air on the ramp but I'm hoping to have a nice motor for another 10+ years , strip it all down and check reapply as required year this year though .

I’ve been faffing around with my rear arch liners this evening and am pretty sure that the front leading edge of the liner was designed to be fitted in front of, not behind, the leading edge of the wing.

If you look close enough there’s clearly a moulded lip in the liner that fits over the wing. The problem is, in my view, that this was too bloody hard to fit properly on the production line so they were all just banged behind the leading edge lip and sent on their way.

Anyone have a view?

It's early days for me and the Freelander guards but I made sure they were full of Lanoguard grease as well as greasing the arches themselves too. My view was that preventing water getting in contact with the metal as well as trying to ensure there's no gap for water and crud to get into was the way to go. Replacing the guards after a couple of years is much cheaper than patching the panels too.