Hi All,

Considering either getting a garage to do this or do this myself if the job isn't too much effort.

The boots have gone on my front arms (RBJ500920 - i believe the whole arm needs changing) and there's a little play in the nearside one. The boots have also gone on the upper arm (RBK500210 - I believe you only need to replace the ball joint). There's also some play in the rear drop links (LR030048).

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Hi there,

Not sure how much help this may be to you. I did all my front suspension late last year. So, the job in itself isn't tricky, there is lots of info on the net. Be careful with the position of the inner control arm bush. It needs the suspension jacking slightly to leave it in the correct position. I took photos of mine before the repair.
One major snag I had was in replacing the lower ball joints. Mine were not worn but I replaced them as best practice with a car nearing 100k. The lower balls joints were seized solid into the hub and I mean solid. I sprayed penetrating oil etc and tries to shock with a hammer to no avail. In the end, I removed the retaining bolts and chiselled the ball joints out of the hub approaching from the side and on top. Total time, I guess about four hours to chisel out.

On rebuild, I greased everything and cleaned spotless to ensure the fault doesn't reoccur. I have to say I'm an experienced ex VW technician with some 41 years motor trade knowledge. I have never, ever, encountered anything as seized but I did get there in the end. I hope this doesn't put you off and you can message for more info. I don't have pics though.

My opinion the drop links aren't too bad to do but the ball joint that has to be removed from the hub is almost guaranteed to be an absolute barsteward. One of mine turned into a marathon job eventually removing the hub to get it out. Yours looks quite well rusted so personally I'd get someone else to do it.

Get a quote from your local indy (Glenrands). I've had mine done by them as I'd seen the video's and reports of people struggling with the ball joint. Also check the outer steering tie rod joints and the ARB bushes. 2012 TDV8 Vogue (L322)

Only one garage has got back to me so far and Glenrands quoted almost £1,200, which didn't include full original Lemforder parts.

So, given they quoted this much, just how much work is there to do? How much time do I need to set aside? I'd like to give it a go myself, and use a garage as a last resort. To give myself the best chance of success, I have been soaking with penetrating oil, wire brushing, knocking with a hammer and gently wriggling a spanner back and forth for the last 3 days. I will also get a MAPP torch. 2015 Range Rover Autobiography 4.4 SDV8

I have had a look today.

I managed to get the nut off on the cassette ball joint, however the two torx screws are so far rusted, the heads are like cheese - even the tiniest bit of pressure and they will strip. They'll need drilling and re-threading - a job for a garage with a ramp!

On the suspension arm to be replaced, absolutely no luck, and without removing the driveshaft, I don't see any space to fit a 6 point socket and breaker bar.

On the rear drop links, I was able to replace these however, a question re the washer. According to the diagram there is a washed both at the bar end and the wishbone end. On the drop links I took off, they only had 1 washer, on the wishbone end, and the new droplink kits come with nyloc nuts without washers. The old droplinks had flanged nuts. Do the washers need to be used with the nyloc nuts? And if so, on which points?

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