Hello!

First poster here and to be honest an amateur with all things mechanical as I've generally had leases or company cars so all issues were covered under company insurance or warranty.

I have however recently purchased my first RR and it really is something special! Maybe I'm stupid as it certainly is a car which demands a knowledgeable owner? I'm more of the belief that it will force me to be involved and ignite a passion for learning more about how these things work (and stop working)!

I'm hoping I can share a bit about what I have encountered so far with others (with prices for getting it sorted) and also lean on some of the more experienced members with some queries I have about fault codes I've got currently.

It has been an incredible experience so far. There really isn't anything like a RR. There is no doubt I prefer sitting in my 10Y old car than I do almost all other new cars I've sat in!! It's a 2012 Westminster, 4.4 TDV8, 2 owners w/ full service history, 120k miles on the clock. On paper I believe it's a good example and variant which should do me well for the foreseeable. I am hoping to keep it for a number of years and want to make sure I am treating it right to get it there.

It has been 5 months & 5k miles now and I have had a few gremlins (some of which are fixed, others not)

Issues Encountered and Now Fixed / Preventative Maintenance

- Height Control Sensor Failure (£250 inc.VAT inc Autologic diagnostic)
- Full service (£550 inc.VAT)
- Transmission Service - Genuine ZF Oils and Pan - (£400 inc.VAT) - I do not believe this has been done prior to me purchasing the vehicle and the oils were starting to discolour.
- Puddle lights clouded with moisture / water - Got some replacements with "Range Rover" LED from our favourite Chinese market place for £7 including shipping!! "2Pcs LED Car Door Courtesy Light For Land Rover Range Rover 3 4 L322 L405 L551 Projector Signal Lamp Car Accessories" if you're interested. Took 1 minute to fit as its just pop out, replace the connection and pop back in.
- Ventilation System Stopped Working Completely! (I banked on this being the FSR and it was - cost me £40 for the part and took a couple hours to replace)

The first two were carried out at my local independent RR specialist. They do appear to be on the pricier side of things so would welcome anyone elses opinion on this? Transmission service was completed by a transmission specialist and I think represents pretty good value. (I'm Hertfordshire btw)

Issues Still to Resolve (Or at least they appear to be serious enough to sort out)

- DRIVER DOOR CENTRAL LOCKING MOTOR (B1108-15) Circuit short to battery or open.
- PARKING BRAKE MODULE (U2002-01) SWITCH GENERAL ELECTRICAL FAILURE. General electrical failure.
- PASSENGER DOOR CENTRAL LOCKING MOTOR (B1109-15) Circuit short to battery or open.
- POWERTRAIN CONTROL MODULE (2 Faults Below)
-- (P2458-66) DIESEL PARTICULATE FILTER REGENERATION DURATION. Signal has too many transitions/events.
-- (P040D-00) EXHAUST GAS RECIRCULATION TEMPERATURE SENSOR A - CIRCUIT HIGH. No sub type information.
- STEERING LOCK / VEHICLE IMMOBILISER MODULE (B100D-64) COLUMN LOCK AUTHORISATION. Signal plausibility failure.

The garage advised I focus primarily on getting the EGR fixed so I took this back to the dealer I got the car from and they have advised that I get the EGR deleted and keep the DPF in place (which they would cover). From what I am reading online this is not a wise move... I'm a little bit stuck on what to do, or whether it even needs to be fixed, or if the deletion is the best move. No faults are coming up on the dash yet. I'd welcome anyone elses opinion on this and if anything else above needs sorting!

Personally the only one causing me issue is the parking brake. Every handful of starts the car gives me a yellow warning "Park Brake Fault". The problem seems to be more common during colder weather so I'm not sure whether its battery related? Garage said its a pig of a job getting to it so advised I just put up with it.

Bit of a brain dump of everything I've encountered since I purchased it. I'm not sure if it will help anyone but I thought I'd share anyway and hopefully someone in return can suggest to me anything else I need to consider to help me get this beauty of a machine to the 2030's and beyond (Diesel price permitting )!

PS: Managed to pick it up in my favourite combo as well (Santorini Black exterior with cream interior) - I've attached a photo if anyone is interested!

Cheers for reading

4.4 TDV8s are pretty hardy beasts.

Mine has just ticked over 150,000 and is as dependable as any other car. I also have Santorini Black with the Ivory semi-aniline leather.

Re the EGR sensor, it is potentially the cause of the DPF error. It's a 'fairly' common fault for the gas sensor on the side of the EGR to fail. Replacing it isn't too bad - getting to it and unseizing it is the challenge, so the quote from any garage will largely be the labour time.

Re the parking brake, sounds like it could be a couple of things. One, do you make sure you disengage it before changing suspension height? The wheels need to rotate slightly when the suspension changes height and it can trigger a fault. Secondly, on a GAP tool, there is an un-jam procedure which can be run. Thirdly, any garage which does brakes can have a look at the shoes and the springs and adjustment, to make sure it's all set up correctly. The parking brake isn't actually needed however, as the automatic gearbox locks itself in Park anyway, so you can leave the parking brake off.

L322s are known for lots of phantom errors. Have you confirmed any of the other faults are genuine by testing yourself e.g. door lock?

Another thing to do is clear the faults and see which return after a little more driving. 2015 Range Rover Autobiography 4.4 SDV8

Welcome! And congrats on the purchase.

As GaryRR says. They are tough. And you are doing it right I.e. sensibly going through the faults.

I’m new to FFRR’s too! Mine is an L322 with 39k miles - and I’m still chugging through the list of jobs to be done.

Loads of fantastic quality advice on this forum. I’ve found that our amazing members be able to help you solve any issue.

Enjoy your new motor and the forum.  Current: L322 2011 Zermatt Silver TDV8 Vogue SE, MB GLB AMG35, Renault Clio R200 Cup
Previous: Audi RS4 Avant Nogaro, Audit TT Sline, BMW M3 E92, BMW Z4 3.0i SMG, Macan GTS, Boxster S 986, Touareg V6 TDI

Welcome!
Don't let them blank the EGR. It's needed for DPF regens (which probably is the reason why you have the DPF error too). They are trying to cut costs and leave you with a vehicle that won't perform correctly.
P040D code is the sensor in the nearside exhaust manifold. It's very common. Most will have had a new updated sensor fitted but not yours unfortunately
Not easy to change. I had a specialist do mine. Full guide here (grab a brew):
https://www.fullfatrr.com/forum/topic50202.html


FYI:
All DTC (diagnostic trouble codes) are detailed in the Workshop Manual you can download here
https://www.fullfatrr.com/wiki/Main_Page
Scroll to bottom.

PM sent too Gone to a good home: 2011 4.4 TDV8 Vogue SE Buckingham Blue with Ivory and clear glass = "Rory"
2025MY Defender D350 90 in Silicon Silver on coils
1974 Series 3 Lightweight = "Millie"
Many, many other Landies over the years
My preferred specialist: www.glenrands.co.uk
--------------------------------------------------

I hadn't realised that I needed to disengage the parking brake before altering the ride height - thanks for the tip!

As for the GAP tool I can see if my local garage has one and can get them to look into this. I'd get one but £500 is quite an outlay, others seem to wax lyrical about them though so maybe its worth it!

The doors seem to lock fine at the moment. I had suspected the fault code would mean that the doors are likely to fail soon but sounds like it could just be a phantom error as you've suggested.

garyRR wrote:

4.4 TDV8s are pretty hardy beasts.

Mine has just ticked over 150,000 and is as dependable as any other car. I also have Santorini Black with the Ivory semi-aniline leather.

Re the EGR sensor, it is potentially the cause of the DPF error. It's a 'fairly' common fault for the gas sensor on the side of the EGR to fail. Replacing it isn't too bad - getting to it and unseizing it is the challenge, so the quote from any garage will largely be the labour time.

Re the parking brake, sounds like it could be a couple of things. One, do you make sure you disengage it before changing suspension height? The wheels need to rotate slightly when the suspension changes height and it can trigger a fault. Secondly, on a GAP tool, there is an un-jam procedure which can be run. Thirdly, any garage which does brakes can have a look at the shoes and the springs and adjustment, to make sure it's all set up correctly. The parking brake isn't actually needed however, as the automatic gearbox locks itself in Park anyway, so you can leave the parking brake off.

L322s are known for lots of phantom errors. Have you confirmed any of the other faults are genuine by testing yourself e.g. door lock?

Another thing to do is clear the faults and see which return after a little more driving.

Thanks

Definitely a labour of love! I agree with you on the members. That's why I've decided to post, seems like a good community to be a part of.

Yours must be in good nick with only 39k on the clock!

Hanwellfields wrote:

Welcome! And congrats on the purchase.

As GaryRR says. They are tough. And you are doing it right I.e. sensibly going through the faults.

I’m new to FFRR’s too! Mine is an L322 with 39k miles - and I’m still chugging through the list of jobs to be done.

Loads of fantastic quality advice on this forum. I’ve found that our amazing members be able to help you solve any issue.

Enjoy your new motor and the forum.

Thanks Rob

Really helpful - this was my concern too. Shame really that they were so convincing that it was the correct option. Glad I took the query to here.

I've had a read of the guide, could've warned me I'd need a pot of tea rather than just a single brew. It does seem quite a job. I think I will leave it to the professionals. Thanks for the PM, I will look into it... Tried to reply but I'm too much of a noob it won't let me respond until I have 3 messages lol

DrRob wrote:

Welcome!
Don't let them blank the EGR. It's needed for DPF regens (which probably is the reason why you have the DPF error too). They are trying to cut costs and leave you with a vehicle that won't perform correctly.
P040D code is the sensor in the nearside exhaust manifold. It's very common. Most will have had a new updated sensor fitted but not yours unfortunately
Not easy to change. I had a specialist do mine. Full guide here (grab a brew):
https://www.fullfatrr.com/forum/topic50202.html


FYI:
All DTC (diagnostic trouble codes) are detailed in the Workshop Manual you can download here
https://www.fullfatrr.com/wiki/Main_Page
Scroll to bottom.

PM sent too

w0lf4y wrote:

The doors seem to lock fine at the moment. I had suspected the fault code would mean that the doors are likely to fail soon but sounds like it could just be a phantom error as you've suggested.

I get the door lock errors too. Never been an issue either  Gone to a good home: 2011 4.4 TDV8 Vogue SE Buckingham Blue with Ivory and clear glass = "Rory"
2025MY Defender D350 90 in Silicon Silver on coils
1974 Series 3 Lightweight = "Millie"
Many, many other Landies over the years
My preferred specialist: www.glenrands.co.uk
--------------------------------------------------

w0lf4y wrote:

Thanks for the PM, I will look into it... Tried to reply but I'm too much of a noob it won't let me respond until I have 3 messages lol

I'm with Dr Rob... don't let them butcher your fatty...

You need to get the codes cleared and see what comes back, a lot of the time the faults are flashed up because of low voltage or other momentary hiccups...

It's always the same with any car, read the codes, clear them and see what returns, if you have a persistent offender then seek advice, a lot, like the door faults, never effect the way they work...

If you want to do stuff yourself you need an IID or similar, you can pick one up on here for around £300 + £25 transfer fee or £442 new from here...

https://bellautoservices.co.uk/store/iid-bt-tool-gap-diagnostics/

Think of it as an investment, they are always worth £300....  Pete
I now have permission from the boss to use Y.O.L.O. Enjoy life
__________________________________________________
2014 L405 Autobiography SDV8 4.4 Loire Blue Ebony interior
2011 L322 Vogue SE 4.4 TDV8 Baltic Blue. Sold
2012 L322 Autobiography 5.0 Supercharged Ipanema Sand Sold
2002 L322 Vogue 4.4 V8 Epson Green (Fatty Offroader) Sold
-Click for Project Fatty off roader-

I'd not leave my driveway without the GAP IID Bluetooth in the car
Worth every penny and as stated, holds its value incredibly well  Gone to a good home: 2011 4.4 TDV8 Vogue SE Buckingham Blue with Ivory and clear glass = "Rory"
2025MY Defender D350 90 in Silicon Silver on coils
1974 Series 3 Lightweight = "Millie"
Many, many other Landies over the years
My preferred specialist: www.glenrands.co.uk
--------------------------------------------------