Looking at the OP’s initial post and error code description it look very much like a turbo actuator issue rather than split hoses or leaks. 2012 TDV8 Vogue (L322)

Can the actuators be checked, cleaned, removed and changed if necessary, and if so, where are they located? Are they part of the turbo or inline in the system somewhere?

Does anyone know what the “-77” refers to in the error code?

I'm sure ours has the modified arm thing on for the turbo.

If I look down to the bottom of the radiator, theres an actuator with an arm that doesnt have a nut on the top, as per the suggestions, but it does do exactly as the OP describes.

i can drive it hard or not and it'll do it, although I'm almost convinced it it MORE likely to do it when I give it more beans than normal. 2010 L322 Autobiography Black Edition
1975 Land Rover

Isn't there a test function for checking the actuators in the GAP IID tool? 2012 TDV8 Vogue (L322)

Not that Ive found 2010 L322 Autobiography Black Edition
1975 Land Rover

Ok, so after many hours removing and checking pipes I didn’t have any luck finding any splits.

All I did find, was some play in the plastic pipe that connects to the throttle body on the way into the air intake. Maybe 2mm play. It looks like there are a couple of seals in there. Should this have a little play or should it be tight?

If it should be tight, do you know what parts I need to replace. Is it the seals or the plastic pipe and if the latter is it possible to remove the sensor in that pipe as it looks to be a snap fit?

Also, may be of interest, took it for another run, it doesn’t fault for the first 6 or so minutes, then goes into limp mode. If I then clear the fault using the GAP tool, it clears the fault but immediately re faults but not into limp mode. On a 20 mile run it occasionally went into limp mode.

We parked up and set of how a little while later and the same again, of for the first 6 or so minutes and then while on idle at a set of traffic lights, faulted and went into limp mode.

How it’s driven makes no difference.

The saga continues

Interesting.

Mine went in for the smoke test thing on Friday. He found the rear right (as you look from the front) rubber connector had a split in it - albeit small, enough to see and they said when you revved the car up the rubber boot collapsed and you could hear it sucking air.

Aside from this he also found the maf to be gummed up, so this was cleaned and tested and all o.k. live data on the maf showed no problems.

So, I'm currently in the process of replacing that rear rubber thing - which is proving a bit more difficult than first thought, since the plastic chamber seems fairly fixed down. I did notice the rear left one has been replaced already. I've bought some fancy silicon hose is rude boy red (not intentional since I'm sure I clicked black on the order), but at least if it splits again I'll see the soot easier!.

Fingers crossed this is my problem....but I remain a bit sceptical.

for me if I drive it like my gran would (less than 2k revs and gentle) I can be about 60% certain it wont throw the restrictive performance. Boot it and I'll guarantee it. 2010 L322 Autobiography Black Edition
1975 Land Rover

oh, and I should add - my pipe at the front feels like your description - about 2mm of play and feels loose. 2010 L322 Autobiography Black Edition
1975 Land Rover

It's also possible that one of the hoses is delaminating and causing an internal restriction, this gives a low boost reading but no external leaks - they're a bu88er to find and usually occur on sharp bends, but not always. Look for any scoring on the inside or a misshaped hose, sometimes you can feel a soft spot from the outside or there will be an oily patch on the exterior that you can't attribute to any leak or spillage...

No one said it would be easy... (just ask Sheryl Crow)

I completed replacing the four rubber boots on the intake this morning. The rear right definately had a split in all the way through in the middle.

Bit of a drama when I went for the test drive, as it pinged up with RP within moments of pulling off the drive. I then realised I hadnt put the pipe to the throttle body (mentioned above) back on properly. The stupid metal clip around the outside wasnt sitting correctly in the groove, so one assumed that as I revved it slightly it popped off (and then ran rough).

That pipe is now fitted properly, but still feels loose. That said, the drive after seemed miles better - certainly smoother and easier revving. Most importantly, despite a couple of harsh accelerations and wide open throttle bringing it up to speed quickly, it didnt falter and show up restricted performance.

Fingers crossed I've sorted it....

I'm going to try the ptfe tape around that inlet pipe to see if it'll seal up better as a temporary measure, and if that feels better, I'll order up a new pipe. 2010 L322 Autobiography Black Edition
1975 Land Rover

I’m still not finding a split or damaged pipe anywhere.

Does anyone have any drawing of where all the pipes are incase I’m mission one?

I did some more live testing, not sure what all the results mean, maybe someone here has some idea….

I live viewed
1. Air flow rate from Mass Air Flow sensor - Bank 1
2. Air flow rate from Mass Air Flow sensor - Bank 2

While watching these, number 1 is registering and increasing as the engine works harder. Number 2 is zero till the second turbo kicks in and then provides good readings too. For piece of mind I swapped the sensors round so and still the same treatment so I took that as a positive.

I also tracked
3. Boost absolute pressure - Raw sensor input voltage
4. Boost absolute pressure - Raw Value

Number 3 sits at 1.39v and number 4 fluctuates around as you work the engine. Number 3 does not change till turbo 2 kicks in and then the voltage increases with the RPM over about 2,500 and decreases as the RPM decreases. Once it drops below 2,500 (ie turbo 2 not active) it just holds at 1.39v. It doesn’t matter if it’s at idle, or working hard in the Rev range upto 2,500, it just stays at 1.39v

Is this normal? I expected it to increase in voltage as turbo 1 is working too?

Thoughts?

Have you checked the intercooler for damage? usually shows as an oil stain.
Have you checked the sensor supply voltage and ground connection - and checked for pin grip on the sensor itself? usually this would show as a specific DTC but in some circumstances a low or constant output voltage can be due to sensor voltage supply issue which don't always set a DTC. You also need to be measuring the voltage output from the sensor, rather than just relying upon what the display tool is showing.

https://new.lrcat.com/#!/12719/104532/108037/8562

Nothing obvious on the inter cooler but that said I haven’t removed it.

Checking the pins with the multi-meter is next on my list, but I was more confused by the fact i was seeing changes in voltage when the second turbo kicks in. I’m assuming I should see voltage changes when turbo 1 is working?

Does it imply a faulty sensor or a fault on the system on turbo 1 rather than turbo 2.I was trying to narrow my search area

I couldn't really say - it's a bit hit & miss as there isn't really a consistent diagnostic path being followed - most likely because you don't have access to smoke tester, reliable pressure measurement equipment etc. The raw voltages don't really help as they're not being mapped to pressure values - I appreciate that the lack of change indicates something, but unless you're looking with a wider view at other signals and their plausibility in relation to the one causing concern, it's always going to be best guess without a frame of reference.