I had a failed LH engine mount diagnosed today. The technician believes this is the cause of the driveline clunk I get under full throttle at slow speeds or after a downshift. The mount is torn and causes the engine to flex significantly.

I have the L405 service manual, except it does not include the SCV8 procedure. I believe the mounts are the same for all engines from 2013-2022 based on the part number. The service manual for the TDV8 shows a pipe going into the bottom of the mount which doesn’t appear in the two videos (petrol engines).

The YouTube video I have watched looks dead simple. He doesn’t remove the engine mount bracket. Instead he lifts the engine slightly to rotate the mount out. It isn’t English, but I think I got it.





I am going to do some digging to see if I can do it myself. The book time is 3-4 hours. $640+ CAD in labour could be better spent elsewhere.

Anyone else replace the engine mount themselves? Dan. 🇨🇦 2013 L405 5.0 SCV8

My buddy and I tackled a few things tonight. After replacing the oil pressure sensor on his F150 Ecoboost, we moved onto the FFRR engine mounts. Simple re/re 🙂…it took us about three hours.

My LH mount was destroyed internally and I could spin it 360 degrees. The RH mount was intact, but worn.

Tools required:

- basic hand tools
- 2x 3/8” wobbles
- 1x female torx socket (forget the size)
- 1x 6” extension
- 1x 3’ extension
- 1x 4’ extension
- 1x 21mm crowfoot

Parts required:

- 2x LR033197 engine mount nut
- 8x LR033201 engine mount bolt
- 2x LR105970 engine mount
- 1x LR033655 steering column bolt

We put the FFRR in high suspension and drive it into four 6” ramps. Then removed the engine cover, air intake accordion pipes, side engine covers, tow hitch cover, engine skid plate, and transmission skid plate. Then we removed the steering column bolt, one-side engine mount nut, engine mount bolts, and the RH engine ground strap. The other engine mount nut was loosened with a little play. Jacked up the FFRR using the oil pan with a floor jack and three 2x4s.

The engine raised on the side without the bolt and tilted inward. We raised it slowly and checked often to allow the mount to be removed. A little twisting and the LH mount came out. The new mount fit in with the nut put back in loose. Then lowered the engine until the mount was seated and high enough to twist. We installed the four engine mount bolts hand tight, lowered engine fully, and torque the four bolts first using the torque pattern. The nut stayed loose. Then we moved to the other side and removed the nut. Repeated the above process, then lowered the engine. Torqued the engine mount nuts using the crowfoot, and reinstalled all other removed parts.

We made a test drive and waited for the engine to get to temperature. Once there, I floored it from a dead stop. Instantly it leaped forward. No more hard clunk!!!! It just hooks up and goes. No slop!!! It’s fixed!!!

$600 Canadian in parts/shipping. Free labour 🥰

Oh, and I need a new lower steering column as the boot gaiter is ripped 😭

Click image to enlarge

Well done Great write up 2018 SE SDV8 4.4 Byron Blue

Top job...  Pete

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2014 L405 Autobiography SDV8 4.4 Loire Blue Ebony interior
2011 L322 Vogue SE 4.4 TDV8 Baltic Blue. Parchment over Navy Interior. Sold
2012 L322 Autobiography 5.0 Supercharged Ipanema Sand, Jet Interior. Sold
2002 L322 Vogue 4.4 V8 Epson Green, Ivory over Aspen Interior (Fatty Offroader) Sold
-Click for Project Fatty off roader-

Great news. Well done and thanks for writing up  Kev

2014 L405 RR Vogue SE 4.4 SDV8 in Corris Grey
2010 L320 RRS HSE 3.0 TDV6 in Stornoway Grey