The exhaust.

Logic would suggest the injector is firing and filling the cylinder but there is not enough compression to ignite it. 2012 TDV8 Vogue (L322)

Can you guys, who have done the PCM update by LTB00454v2, share your PCM (or ECM) data? I want to know if mine has been done, so need comparsion data. I've also felt a juddering few times, while cruising at highway speeds over 110 km/h. Really worrysome feeling.
My PCM data is here:

PCM-Engine TDV8 4.4L (No update found)

Assembly (F113)
BH42-12A650-NAD

Calibration (F124)
BH42-12K532-NTL

Hardware (F111)
BH42-12B684-NA

Serial
1373020506111015

Strategy (F188)
BH42-14C204-NTD

Hope someone would find a minute to pull and share data.
Cheers
Keijo

I’ve had the same issue. Juddering at 20mph when you lightly touch the throttle then disappearing if you floor it. The problem was cylinder 6. Burnt inlet valves, no compression. Took months to find issue as these engines are by reputation bullet proof.
This was on a 2011 L322 4.4 tdv8

PVB1 - was it the firing order cylinder 6, or cylinder 6 position in the engine bay ?

in the diagram below cylinder 1 and 5 are at the front of the engine

Position in the engine bay. It also plays havoc with the DPF, filling it over a matter of weeks then days. Look at the valve top right.

Have you checked the cylinder balances? it may give a clue as to which cylinder needs further investigation (compression test, leakage test etc.)

I have similar judder, so am thinking of getting a new Inlet Valve and seeing if it fixes it for £5 quid

https://www.lrparts.net/1311281-inlet-valv...velar.html

You do realise it's a non-trivial repair, don't you?

it does look involved, how many hours would it take for a good indie shop to replace the burnt inlet vale - and if there is one gone, there may be others on the way out ( or it that unlikely )

is this a good thing to at the same time as an engine oil change, and the oil cooler - I have very small amount of oil leaking in that back area of the engine and after a long 200 mile trip you can realy smell the oil when you stop and open the bonnet

Yes it is good idea to do the oil cooler at the same time, because top of the engine must be taken apart anyway.
Also if the valve is really burnt, it is highly possible that the valve seat has to be re-machined, also the head probably will be machined, so it is wise to do other valves as well.

How was the burnt valve diagnosed?