Hi all, need some help with recently purchased 138k mile '06 4.2L L322 suspension. Thx in advance for any ideas/support.
Problem:
Getting C1130-66 air spring air supply suspension fault on every drive averaging about 15 or so mins into drive.
Vehicle pulls hard right at times and alignment is good. Visibly can see pass. right front sit lower. Vehicle also will not go into Off Road mode & only goes up into Extended with standard led lit & off road flashing. Other than that raises/lowers fine.

What has been done:
Tried height calibration with Foxwell NT510 with Land Rover software. 1st step successfully completed & get confirmation that front & rear valves are open.
Then, get hung up on next step & says could not close front cross link valve. So, cannot complete calibration.
Raised vehicle to extended mode, disconnected battery and took measurements.
RF 20 3/8"
LF 20 7/8"
RR 20 7/8"
LR 20 7/8"
Rebuilt front valve body assembly. Looked real good with no dessicant powder and was clean. Cleaned & changed o-rings regardless.
24 hour later readings:
RF 19 1/2" (drop happened in first couple hours then stayed stable balance of time)
LF 20 7/8"
RR 20 3/4"
LR 21 1/8" (looks like it actually raised with battery disconnected? Any idea as to why?)
Tried calibration again with same result of could not close front cross link valve.

I hate throwing $ at the problem. I know Gap IId is the diagnostic tool of choice but dont want to drop $500 if Foxwell will work. Use it on all my other cars but know the air suspension is a different animal. The Foxwell produces all the live data, has all the service options & seems like it should work if can get past cross link failed to close issue.
The fact that it stops leaking on RF seems to lead me to no leak in air bag coupled with calibration issue pointing to valve body. However, I don't want to throw $300 at new front valve if not necessary.
Next step/ideas greatly appreciated. Steve A

Looks like it's time to get a soap spray around the front right airbag & pipework, that DTC extended text is 'too many transitions / events' and can be set where an airbag is continually needing air to reach target height - i.e. leaking. The left rear height will increase as the car is essentially pivoting on the LF & RR due to the lack of air in the right front and the additional weight of the engine.

The crosslink valve will not close until the measured height is stable, if it's leaking air continually, it won't be stable. The Foxwell 510 is more than capable of doing what you need it to do but you need to find & rectify the air leak first.

Phoenix, WOW. Thanks a lot for the logical response. Esp. ruling out Foxwell as this removed a variable of uncertainty for sure. Much appreciation.

Question: I did check FR valve body for leaks with soap/water. Confirmed good. I struggle to understand how to test airbag with its tucked away positioning and lack of access up in the fender. Is there a procedure somewhere or am I missing something obvious?

Assuming you don't have a two-post hoist, the easiest way is to jack it up and take the wheel off, get a spray bottle and fill it with some high-foam soap & water, give the airbag a good soaking and leave for a few minutes to let the bubbles 'develop'. Big bubbles = big leak, small bubbles = small leak

Here's a couple of photos (non-JLR but still leaky airbags) to give you an idea of what you're looking for

Click image to enlarge

Click image to enlarge

2 point lift and detached garage upgrade in future but for now yes, jackstands. Thx again for caring & the pics. That helps. I will report back once this source hopefully id'ed and corrected so others can benefit.

Just a couple of additional points - you don't need or want the vehicle running, it's not great having it trying to self-level when the wheel is off!
Try and do it in an enclosed area, ideally inside, so you don't get any false positives from the wind whistling around the wheelarch. Also try and get some soap spray around the Voss airline connector, they don't often leak, but it's not unknown.
Good luck!

Safety 1st without a doubt!! Again, appreciate you caring!! One of the reasons I am in conundrum state on this as I continue to get educated on the air system is it has been in garage and me with it quite a bit on correcting other issues since I picked up this baby this fall at a signficant discount. Have retrofitted rearview camera internals, id'ed and corrected rear PDC sensor wiring break, rebuilt tranny valve body and replaced solenoids, spark plug change, throttle body cleaning, install of key security emulator to bypass steering column lock issue, rebuilding front air suspension valve body, etc.

During all of this quality 1v1 time it has been whisper quiet & I have not heard any air leak whatsoever. And, is why I have escalated to the forum. Even after researching countless related forum posts it still has me in head scratching state. Hoping it is indeed the air bag as you call out bc I am getting headache!!! I'm still wondering if valve body solenoid could be at fault?

Firstly, it's not easy to hear air leaks unless it's a big tear, the rubber airbag does a good job of damping the sound!
The pressure side of the air suspension is a closed system, so if there was an internal leak in the valve block, all that would happen is the pressure would (eventually) equalise across both sides of the leaking valve(s) - which wouldn't give the symptoms you describe with the height changes overnight. It's possible that the pressure line to the right front air spring has chafed and is leaking, it's not something I've seen enough to call it a common failure though.

Update. Following raising vehicle & putting on stands in front I liberally sprayed down Right Front (RF) air bag with soap & water. Including the fitting and yellow supply line to it. I could not visually find or hear any leaks. Was in there with good lighting & mirrors. IE., up close & personal and couldn't see or hear squat. It is I found an Arnott AS-2516 remanufactured strut and is not original. Vehicle has around 135k miles. Would you at this point replace the struts with OEM new first and then I guess if that does not work then replace front valve block assy. Or vice versa or other tests? Struggling to just throw $ at it. Ideas welcome.

Right, well if there's no leaks, then it must be the control side - can you have a look at the output voltage from the front right height sensor? a fast meter or ideally a 'scope would be best, it's not the absolute voltage but the fluctuation that's important. Also check the supply voltage and ground are within spec. and stable.

Thx for the ongoing support. OK, I used the Foxwell to pull Live Data.

Control Module Voltage good at 14.08V
Height Sensor Supply Voltages to all sensors including FR reading 4.92V

All Output Voltages off Height sensors were stable. Readings as follows in V.
FR - 3.15, FL - 2.88, RL - 2.75, RR - 2.43

When raising/lowering vehicle between modes all valve positions open/closed & amperage for exhaust, reservoir, FR, FL, RR, RL all seemed to operate as one would expect during live data. One exception was front & rear cross link valves. The entire time they showed 0% and never moved no matter how many up/down movements. It also bypasses OFF ROAD from Standard & goes into Extended for whatever reason. This gets me back to the Foxwell & calibration process & not being able to proceed due to error showing front cross link valve as not being able to close impeding progress. It seems odd both front & rear cross link valves never show movement? Am I missing something or is that normal. I am just wandering if all this thing needs is a calibration but the Foxwell is not up to the task. I am using automatic vehicle selection for 2006 and reads VIN as would expect but maybe an error in the Foxwell code for calibration tied to cross link valve operation?

To be clear I am just learning & don't know squat as I am in this H2O for 1st time. I am totally open to suggestions and let me know if you see anything odd in the above. Thanks for the continued support.

Don't worry about crosslink operation, that's only valid in certain terrain response modes. Back to your original DTC - too many transitions/events, if there is no air leak, then a height sensor issue on that corner needs investigating. Can you unbolt from the suspension arm and check:-
a). The sensor arm articulates easily - no stiffness or increase in physical resistance throughout it's movement.
b). The voltage increases/decreases linearly as the arm is articulated up & down - no spikes or pauses in the voltage when the arm is moved.

The voltages you posted for the front height sensors can be checked on the graph below, they're within tolerance.



The full document is here
https://www.fullfatrr.com/gallery/albums/u...7-2010.pdf

ETA - did you also check there was no leak around the top mount of the airspring, where the damper passes through?

All right loving the journey togther!

Removed FR sensor. Sensor arm seemed to move smoothly. During raise lower all sensors moved linearly through the ranges.. no spikes or abnormalities. Took the following readings.

Access Height (Volts)
FL -3.48
FR - 3.55
RL-1.73
RR- 1.53

Standard Height (Volts)
FL - 3.00
FR - 3.05
RL - 2.18
RR - 2.00

Off Road (Volts). Note it did find Off Road this time & did not go into extended which sometimes it does.
FL - 2.58
FR- 3.03 (any reason for large discrepancy with FL?)
RL -2.80
RR - 2.80

Took the Off Road C/L wheel to fender lip (in inches).
FR - 19 5/8"
FL - 21 1/8"
RL - 19 1/2"
RR - 20"

Hope you see something or have ideas

I'd say the FR height sensor is defective - it's reading effectively standard height when at offroad height, this would fit with the DTC as the valve is trying to raise to a height that can't be measured, hence the 'too many events'. Regardless of the actual height, the other three corners will share the (physical) load and pull up, to some extent, the low corner - FR in your case. Unfortunately you can't swap the sensors side-to-side or front to back to confirm, unless there is something odd going on with the suspension arms or bushes, then the voltage discrepancy at offroad height would indicate that either the sensor is not tracking height changes due to a mechanical defect or the output voltage is incorrect for the measured height.
Without being there, it's clearly a best guess based upon available information and faith in your ability. - if you're happy there are no air leaks and mechanically everything is articulating as intended, then I'd suggest replacing the FR height sensor is the next step.

Last edited by Phoenix on 21st Jan 2023 10:27pm. Edited 1 time in total

Well, that is indeed the cheapest potential solution and am in agreement with it as the best place to start. So, I will get that ordered, try that & report back findings. It is a pleasure having you as my coach in this matter!