My 6year old battery finally required changing. The battery shop installed a ODBii power prior to the swap out of batteries. After installation, when the car was started, the alarm sounded. Once started, it went off, only to restart the alarm on a restart or when the door opened. The display screen shows only the RR logo, windows don't work, doors won't lock, ride height won't change, and displays a message that the door is open (when it is not)

I disconnected the battery for over night, and as soon as I reconnected it, the same things happened.

I am searching for prior posts on this. Guidance appreciated. Current Rover rides:
2008 Range Rover HSE SC

Prior Rovers:
2000 Range Rover HSE 4.6 Rhino
1988 Range Rover Classic
1967 Rover 3500s
1959 Rover 90 (learn to drive car)

Non Rover current:
2014 Ford F150XLT 4x4
2007 Pontiac Solstice

Past rides:
1975 Jensen interceptor III
1970 BMW 2002 Ti (not Tii)
Many Volvo's 1968 thro 1976
1960 MB 190D
1958 Alvis MK III Crash Truck

Hi, I have 2010 L322, and you need to code the battery to the car after a swap. Is your battery the right way round? I have an App by Autel Ap200 on my phone that will code it. You can buy it on the Play Shop.

Battery was installed correctly but it seems the battery technician shorted out the power fuse for the OBD-II connection. It is only a 5 amp fuse, probably not designed to back feed 12v into the car's system. It is typical to do that though, to retain memories in the computer components. Having replaced the fuse, the alarm stopped yelling, and most other functions resumed.

A few points learned. It is very easy to drop the fuse while trying to pull or insert - it drops into a captive inaccessible comartment, All modeules had to be cleared of temporary fault codes.

Now I am just left with the nav/radio display gone, and just the RR logo. Now begins the search of why that happened and how to fix it. Current Rover rides:
2008 Range Rover HSE SC

Prior Rovers:
2000 Range Rover HSE 4.6 Rhino
1988 Range Rover Classic
1967 Rover 3500s
1959 Rover 90 (learn to drive car)

Non Rover current:
2014 Ford F150XLT 4x4
2007 Pontiac Solstice

Past rides:
1975 Jensen interceptor III
1970 BMW 2002 Ti (not Tii)
Many Volvo's 1968 thro 1976
1960 MB 190D
1958 Alvis MK III Crash Truck

I am glad you found the cause. I believe you might have to code the radio to the car. Is the code written on your service book front page with the original purchase details?

Hahaha ... original purchase details... ?? I am probably the fourth owner. Came off a couple of leases, went to auction, ended up on a small lot in upstate NY, before I brought it to the Caribbean almost 8 years ago. No original anything except the vehicle itself. Even the pouch of manuals was ebay purchased.

However, your point is well taken. I think that might yet be the issue with the display. Jury still out until I get a round tuit.

Both batteries are 49H8 The Autocraft Gold lasted from 01/17 to 10/22, rather remarkable in the tropics. I don't think the replacement Deka will last anywhere near that given the disconcerting number of 2 year old Deka batteries on the merchants recycling pile. Current Rover rides:
2008 Range Rover HSE SC

Prior Rovers:
2000 Range Rover HSE 4.6 Rhino
1988 Range Rover Classic
1967 Rover 3500s
1959 Rover 90 (learn to drive car)

Non Rover current:
2014 Ford F150XLT 4x4
2007 Pontiac Solstice

Past rides:
1975 Jensen interceptor III
1970 BMW 2002 Ti (not Tii)
Many Volvo's 1968 thro 1976
1960 MB 190D
1958 Alvis MK III Crash Truck

I see your location is the Virgins islands. I believe that Richard Branson lives there, and he has had Range rovers. Seems a helpful sort of chap! Seriously, Most L322's seem to have one big battery, and OE quality originals work best. Two unmatched used to work on big diesels, but modern electronics do not like them. I once had a problem with a Jagaur s-type with a seized electric handbrake, and I phoned the main Dealer Marshalls in Peterborough, who gave, on getting the vin number, a code to log into the display to rest the ECU. Worth a try?

Yes, the US Virgin Islands. Sir Richard owns island(s) in the British Virgin Islands. Notwithstanding, I have had the opportunity to meet him and ride in one of his smaller boats with his two kids during a poker run a few years ago. I have this photo which I shot, during the trip.

On these small Caribbean islands, there are few car dealers, just major manufacturers. In fact, GM is not represented here anymore. 80 square miles, and 40,000 people, don't invoke a large market. Any specialty-type vehicle, one is on their own basically. And yet another quirk on our set of islands (US) we drive left-drive vehicles on the left side of the road.

Thank you for the tips. I'll be doing more research in the coming week. For now, the vehicle is operational for my wife's needs. I drive a Ford F150 truck for my daily routine - all 10-20 miles at most a day

Cheers Current Rover rides:
2008 Range Rover HSE SC

Prior Rovers:
2000 Range Rover HSE 4.6 Rhino
1988 Range Rover Classic
1967 Rover 3500s
1959 Rover 90 (learn to drive car)

Non Rover current:
2014 Ford F150XLT 4x4
2007 Pontiac Solstice

Past rides:
1975 Jensen interceptor III
1970 BMW 2002 Ti (not Tii)
Many Volvo's 1968 thro 1976
1960 MB 190D
1958 Alvis MK III Crash Truck

I wish you well, hope you get sorted soon.

It's been a while but you may have just left your missus with the RR and 'forgotten' about this situation.I'm not an expert but have been solving some similar problems on my 06 RR SC. I've been a computer geek since the 1960s and try to understand how today's stuff works, specifically, communicates.

The buses in these cars seems to be based upon those used in the same generation BMWs. So first, always blame the German engineers that think people always read the manual before they do anything. Second, blame the German engineers as they seems to think people that drive German cars behave logically and sequentially, just like computers.

The various buses pass messages around a loop, each module taking what it needs and doing what it was told. They know which signals are for them as they come in 'packets' that have a unique address that matches the module it was destined to arrive at. Problems occur when messages are missed or arrive in some unexpected sequence. So ...

After replacing a battery it is best to wipe the 'current' modules buffers (memory). The circuitry is comprised of CMOS components that retain data as long as there is some residual capacitance in their circuits. Sometimes deliberately, sometimes inadvertently. The way to clean up the modules latent memory is to touch and hold the two battery cables together for 10 - 15 seconds before they are reconnected to the battery. Touching these two cables together 'grounds' the bus circuits allowing old 'packet' information to drain away.

When the battery is reconnected the modules will have no remaining data that can confuse the logic (I use the term generously) and reinstate errors that can mysteriously shut down modules over and over again.

Surprisingly the FO (fiber optic) bus can become the cause of problems on the CAN buses. Each module connected via the FO can be tested by unplugging the connector and looking to see if the red light is visible inside the connector. It may appear static but it is actually turning on and off incredibly quickly as it carries digital data. The FO is a complete circle so data goes around and around all the time. If a connector lights up it is receiving data from the last module 'down the line'. When you find one that is not alight you can be sure the module that particular piece of FO cable comes from is not working. It is possible to buy a few simple loop connectors that can be inserted in the bus to bypass a bad module. The Bluetooth phone module is a classic cause of FO bus problems so if you don't use it, bypass it. The FO connectors are susceptible to water ingress so be sure to keep them clean and dry.

The radio associated components are vulnerable to errors in the FO bus but are also vulnerable to water ingress either up front from leaking windscreen seals but more often back in the left rear quarter where all the stereo and amplifier hardware is stuffed. I find it amazing that a Land Rover leaks as much as these L322 models do. It's clear the factory cannot engineer a dry location for the electronics in the left rear quarter as they sell a 'plastic Macintosh' to help keep them dry. It's a simple piece of vinyl that is draped over the electronics to keep the rain off! I bought and installed one, added suitable duct tape, modified the 'mac' to fit better but not contain the heat too much and I still manage to get water in the Harmon Kardon amplifier and other radio/DVD/CD/ etc . .... '

I've discovered that the electronics are quite hardy in that they can be dismantled, dried and reassembled and still work! So far at least.

The above illustrates why a problem with a seat control module can be causing a radio/NAV/ DVD, etc, etc problem. Or the Bluetooth module causing DVD problems, etc. I've found it's always best to reset the modules, erase the memories and clear any error codes before trying to trouble shoot a situation. If necessary then drive the car around the block to re-establish any lingering error codes and start from there. Happy hunting. Tally ho!