Replaced the thermostat on my 5.0 L322 today but I'm having problems bleeding the system.

The workshop manual indicates the plug below needs to be removed / released but I can't work out how. All the other bleed screws are open & eventually the car begins to overheat at which point I shut it off. I can hear gurgling around this area so there is definitely air in the system. Anyone know how these types of plugs are released?

Click image to enlarge

To answer my own questiion, the loop on the plug was broken bang smack in the middle. So, pushing it did nothing to release the catches on the plug. It is now out and the mission to bleed continues!

Hi Rackers, I know this is a really old post, but how did you get on bleeding out the air of your engine. I'm just about to embark on flushing the system and I can't find any bleed points at all, not even by the fill bottle. if you of anyone for that matter has under taken this job on the 5.0SC any advise would be mush appreciated.

Cheers in advance. 2010 RR Autobiography 5.0 SC
2020 F-Pace SVR 5.0 SC
2018 RRS HSE Dynamic 3.0
2014 Disco XXV
2011 Disco 3.0
2009 RRS HST V8

I had to get a pressure bleeder in the end, these things are a nightmare to bleed manually.

There is a manual here that explains how to do it but I wouldn't bother if you want to keep your sanity.

JagRepair.com
http://jagrepair.com › imagesPDF
NP10-V8JLR: AJ133 5.0-Liter DFI V8 Engine

http://jagrepair.com/images/Training%2520G...3eOnU0L4Zi

Cheers

Many thanks for that, maybe this job might be best left to a professional..... 2010 RR Autobiography 5.0 SC
2020 F-Pace SVR 5.0 SC
2018 RRS HSE Dynamic 3.0
2014 Disco XXV
2011 Disco 3.0
2009 RRS HST V8

It depends how patient you are, I bled manually (successfuly) once when I did the thermostat but the second time no good. Probably too much air as a result of opening up the water pump.

If you know someone with a compressor it's always handy to have the bleed kit!

A bleed kit is £25 which I guess could go towards the mechanic's fee. But I was hoping that a mechanic that knew what he was doing could do it without using the vacuum as I'm not sure I like that solution as it crushes the coolant pipes flat as it sucks all the air out of the system. I figure on old hoses it might end up cracking them and putting them under more stress than needed. 2010 RR Autobiography 5.0 SC
2020 F-Pace SVR 5.0 SC
2018 RRS HSE Dynamic 3.0
2014 Disco XXV
2011 Disco 3.0
2009 RRS HST V8

If it helps, on my 2010 the pipes didn't go completely flat/get crushed and are fairly robust. The workshop manual actually recommends the use of a vacuum bleeders as well.

So did you find after using the vacuum pump that there was no need to bleed the system. This is what I'm worried about as I can't find any bleed points on the system. 2010 RR Autobiography 5.0 SC
2020 F-Pace SVR 5.0 SC
2018 RRS HSE Dynamic 3.0
2014 Disco XXV
2011 Disco 3.0
2009 RRS HST V8

No need to bleed at all, it does the whole job for you.

Basic procedure would be:

Drain the coolant from the lowest point (I think its on the bottom of the rad if I'm recalling correctly)

Pop the vacuum pump on the coolant tank to pull the air out of the system.

Follow the instructions with the pump to refill (in a nutshell it uses the vacuum pulled from the system to fill the system with coolant with no air getting trapped).

It took me about 20 minutes excluding waiting for the coolant to drain out.

Cheers, that has now given me the confidence to tackle the job myself after I have purchased the the vacuum kit.  2010 RR Autobiography 5.0 SC
2020 F-Pace SVR 5.0 SC
2018 RRS HSE Dynamic 3.0
2014 Disco XXV
2011 Disco 3.0
2009 RRS HST V8

No problem, good luck!