Just had the car in for some work after it failed the MOT, had the drop links done, front pads and discs, drive shaft boots, brake pipe and rear CVD. The garage advised the dash was showing the yellow seat airbag warning light was on, offered to keep the car to investigate but I needed it so said I would take it back on Thursday. The brake pedal has a lot of travel and feels spongy, the car has a flashing red dash above the near side front wheel on the 4x4 screen when put in access mode, looks like they haven’t calibrated the suspension.

Pretty sure the red dash above the wheel indicates the wheel has reached its maximum travel distance.

I tried clearing the fault on the airbag with the gap IID but the air bag warning light stays on and the following code pops up
U3000-49 (A Control module - System internal failure - internal electronic failure.

Anyone had the issue with the seat airbag coming on after work on the car, definitely wasn’t in when the car went in.

Cant help with the other bits, but the Brembo brakes take a lot of bleeding. Manual says to put the ABS valve block into bleed mode, to get the air out. That said, that might only be if certain elements have been replaced. I had the rear brake pipes on mine replaced along with the master cylinder, and I had to take the car back for them to bleed again, as the pedal was as you describe.

 2011 Range Rover Vogue SE 4.4 TDV8

Previous cars :
2003 Range Rover Vogue TD6
1999 Discovery Td5 ES
1995 BMW M5 3.8 6 speed
1992 Range Rover 3.9 Efi Vogue
1992 BMW M5 3.8
1988 BMW 735i SE
1989 Ford Sierra XR4x4 2.9i
1981 Ford Fiesta Supersport

Most likely low voltage is the cause - SRS faults are always 'latching', try a battery disconnect / reconnect but make sure it's well charged first, then clear the DTC's. That should do it.

Thanks for the replies, much appreciated. phoenix, do you make sure the battery is fully charged before disconnecting it or before reconnecting ?

Personally I'd charge it up whilst still connected but it shouldn't matter too much, just make sure the key is out and all the doors are closed and it's had time to shut down 'gracefully' - about 20 mins should do it, before you disconnect the battery. Leave it disconnected for a few minutes and make sure you get the terminal back on without excessive arcing, if there are a few sparks, don't worry, just leave the terminal off for a bit longer and go again.

Thanks for that, it’s a 2010 so key in shouldn’t matter. As it happens I attempted to get to work today and the suspension warning light came on 2 miles away from home and the suspension lowered to the bump stops. I’m assuming the airbag when they’ve done the shocker hasn’t been seated correctly.

Check the height sensor is not loose / jammed - any DTC's? it's possible the sensor arm is not the correct way round.
You definitely want the key outside of the vehicle when carrying out a battery disconnect, the car won't fully shut down otherwise.