As per the title, are these shot? Do they need replacing?

Click image to enlarge

That is just on the surface, you can see if they are worn as they will move and you can see some nicely clean and polished areas where the movement has wiped the dirt off and then rubbed it shiny....

IMHO they have years left in them...  Pete
I now have permission from the boss to use Y.O.L.O. Enjoy life
__________________________________________________
2014 L405 Autobiography SDV8 4.4 Loire Blue Ebony interior
2011 L322 Vogue SE 4.4 TDV8 Baltic Blue. Sold
2012 L322 Autobiography 5.0 Supercharged Ipanema Sand Sold
2002 L322 Vogue 4.4 V8 Epson Green (Fatty Offroader) Sold
-Click for Project Fatty off roader-

Cheers Pete.
If they are starting to crack, does that mean they are getting stiff? I only ask as I’m looking at some harsh ride issues too… just trying to join some dots whilst here…

I know caesium swapped his recently, and while it was a pita, it’s certainly a doable job. Currently driving: 2012 L322 SE Overfinch 4.4 tdv8

Past rides:
2014 Audi Q7 3.0d (good riddance)
2010 L322 Autobiography 5.0 Supercharged
2011 L320 HSE 3.0 sdv6
2014 Jaguar XF-RS 5.0 supercharged
2007 BMW 535D
2005 Mini Cooper S

https://www.fullfatrr.com/forum/topic59478.html

They glue them to the ARB for a reason, I can't see cutting them off and replacing with a "movable" one will be a positive step forward... Just my 2p... Pete
I now have permission from the boss to use Y.O.L.O. Enjoy life
__________________________________________________
2014 L405 Autobiography SDV8 4.4 Loire Blue Ebony interior
2011 L322 Vogue SE 4.4 TDV8 Baltic Blue. Sold
2012 L322 Autobiography 5.0 Supercharged Ipanema Sand Sold
2002 L322 Vogue 4.4 V8 Epson Green (Fatty Offroader) Sold
-Click for Project Fatty off roader-

That looks like the protective coating beginning to crack due to ageing, the rubber underneath will be fine. If they are worn, you will be able to move the bar in the rubber with some free movement.
As has already been mentioned, there's no polished metal visible (good sign) and there is an engineering reason these were bonded to the bar when new.
From your other thread, I'd be checking the suspension arm bushes for play, maybe even release the torque, articulate the suspension and re-torque with the weight of the vehicle on the wheels I used to have a set of stands that bolted to the hubs (I made them from 10mm plate with ball castors set into the foot) which I regrettably left at the last LR dealership I worked at, it made the task so much easier. I've heard of people using axle stands supporting an old hub cut from a damaged wheel which could work but I'd want a jack under the lifting point, 'just in case'....