Hi all,

I need you thinking caps on of this one....I appear to have lost all power to the drivers door, none of the window switches work also the mirror adjust and when I lock the door it only locks the drivers side not any other?

windows all work from their respective switches and the doors/boot open and lock from the dash board switch, also note that when I open the drivers door the interior lights don't come on and the alarm/immobiliser doesn't start when the door is locked?

any ideas?

car usable but just a bit inconvenient having to think about doors, incidentally key fob hasn't work for ages so normal way in and out is via the key in the handle.

Cheers

Has someone attempted to cut the wiring to the door? check the rubber umbilical on the 'A' pillar for damage, if OK, take out the screw and check the connector behind the shroud is fully mated / not corroded.

Do you have any way to see if there are any error codes stored, i.e. with a GAP IID tool or similar OBDII reader.
First things I would be looking at is why the key fob isn't working...dead battery or maybe a blown fuse in the fuse box?
Start with the simple things to look at, then work from there.

Have a look at Fuses 11 and 24, both 30A on the front fuse box.

Thanks for the ideas, will give them a look

it was working fine first thing Saturday then by about midday it had gone so you maybe right about fuses...fingers crossed

Thanks to those who suggested the fuses, glad to say one 30amp fuse in position 11 later and everything appears to be working again

Only thing in the back of my mind now is why did a 30amp fuse pop?

Do you still have the blown fuse? does it look like it has a small crack or gently melted section across the middle, or is the middle of the fuse discoloured like a bad bruise? The first type of 'blow' indicates a repetitive or persistent overload, the second indicates a short to ground, usually due to cracked or damaged insulation or the harness rubbing on a metallic part due to restraints and hold-downs giving way over time.
A fuse will not 'blow' at it's rating - that is how much current it can pass 100% of the time, neither will it instantly blow at an overload of varying percentage, dependent upon the type of fuse and it's time - current characteristics. For example a Maxi-fuse of 20A rating will open in about 9 seconds when a load of 40A is applied but 0.5 seconds when 100A is applied.

Looking at the fuse it will be the more gradual overload as apposed to a big bang.

I noted that the spare 30A had gone from the fuse box so makes me wonder if this is an issue that may occur from time to time and whether I need to investigate further?

As I said I have to open the car using the key in the door lock so is there a connection I wonder?

(Note to self: must try to sync the key having re-soldered a few connections that appeared to have come adrift)

Well the good news is that with the sort of current involved, you could use a current clamp to measure the draw from connected consumers, which means you won't need to open circuits and have a slack handful of spare multimeter fuses available...
The first step is to determine every consumer supplied by that fuse.

That's a good point, I'll borrow the clamp meter from work and do some investigation

Fuse 11 is for central locking, front windows and something else if memory serves same as no. 24 which is why a assume the central locking and windows worked from other locations, but can't quite get my head round how and why two separate fused circuits can't imagine the load is that big (maybe need to look at a wiring diagram)

Both those circuits involve motors, which can have high inrush currents, the fuse and circuit wiring will be need to be capable of (for example) powering both front windows at the same time.

Yes that's true, the windows have been used quite a lot lately (especially as the air-con needs a re-gas) TBH I was thinking along those lines (i.e. windows maybe getting a bit sticky in the runners) so have been looking at some dry lubricant to do the said runners.

the car is 2003 registered so original lubrication my be wearing a bit thin by now I think its probably a case of keeping an eye on it after looking checking current draw

Believe it or not, they are not lubricated from new, its just the 'fur' that prevents friction as the window only touches small areas of the fibre, over time, this wears down and gets bunged up with general road dirt, bird muck etc. Ive had good results from taking them out and bunging them in the washing machine on a hot wash with as much washing powder as you dare... Obviously, make sure the mechanism is lubricated and not binding as well.

Okay that's good to know (I'll wait until the wife puts on a "Dark's" wash and sneak them in)