Hi guys so I’ve had a mega flush done about a year ago but now looks like it’s got the judder on it now but the thing is I’ve gone to add some dr tranny to the filler plug and it’s pouring out of gearbox is that right??

Yes, you need to have the engine running and top up when about 40 degrees gbox oil temperature until it trickles from fill plug

Thanks for the reply. So just done that engine running plug out nothing came out so I think it might be low on oil now. Added the dr tranny and going to some oil to top it up. You can really feel the car down shift so I’m guessing gearbox or torque converter 🫣

See how it is working when the level is right, an oil change is sometimes all that's required, has it been done before?

Yh I think I’m gonna order the gearbox filter and oil to be done. I had the flush done last year in august. But I think now I’ll have do it again.

Personally I'd do a filter change and whilst you're at it, do the Mechatronic seals and use the correct ZF oil. whatever oil it is that 'Megaflush' use, it won't be to the spec of ZF Lifeguard, whatever they claim. For it to break down in a year or so, despite having 'flushed' the whole transmission, that's (to my mind) a pretty poor oil. The standard way of doing it where roughly 2/3rds of the oil is changed - but using the correct spec oil, is much more robust and lasts a lot longer. There has to be a reason for that.

The 3.6 TDV8 is known for a little judder or rough changes.

A gearbox oil and filter change and a tube of Dr Tranny sorts or reduces most issues.

Oil is ZF Lifeguard 6, Mannol AG55 or Millers and Smith & Allen also make some. 2015 Range Rover Autobiography 4.4 SDV8

Phoenix wrote:

Personally I'd do a filter change and whilst you're at it, do the Mechatronic seals and use the correct ZF oil. whatever oil it is that 'Megaflush' use, it won't be to the spec of ZF Lifeguard, whatever they claim. For it to break down in a year or so, despite having 'flushed' the whole transmission, that's (to my mind) a pretty poor oil. The standard way of doing it where roughly 2/3rds of the oil is changed - but using the correct spec oil, is much more robust and lasts a lot longer. There has to be a reason for that.

I think I'll stick with changing the oil & filter using the method specified by the manufacturer , they way I've been doing it for years on customers & my own vehicles, I've never known one come back a year later with shift issues.

So I had Ian bosworth do the flush and it’s been fine. But I think next time it will be a filter change as well.