Got my car back from having the rust done on the arches and underneath.

Its had the battery disconnected while its been in, so connected it up last night and it started right up but driving home the screen was displaying the land rover logo and it does nothing else, ive pressed all the buttons and tried turning it off but it still does nothing.
It turns off after a few minutes when I lock the car but thats it.

Am I missing something here.?

I'd check your battery voltage if I was you. When my car had been in for the rust to be taken care of the radio would come on for 30 seconds then go off again. Once I charged the battery up it seemed fine.

Either that or check the connections in the boot in case they disturbed something when they were working.

... or melted some of the fibre-optic cable front to back. Just displaying the LR logo is a typical indicator of a MOST break.

Ok I will check connections in boot, are they located on the left side.?

That doesn't sound good

Where is the cable running for it to be melted.? Is there anyway I can check it.?

There is a loom running on top of the sill area from the back but I'd be very surprised if it got melted unless you had extensive corrosion... but you never know...

Bottom left is where your sill rust will have been...

Click image to enlarge

Click image to enlarge

Yeh the corrosion was the outside sill i dont think it had spread to the inside. I hope it hasn't melted thats all I need ive only had the car 3 weeks and drove it twice, its driving me mad already

Was I supposed to do a battery reset on reconnecting the battery.?

Should I check fuses as well.?

The guy who welded it reconnected the battery when I was there, eleven I fired it up there was a few warnings on dash but they went away after I started driving.

There's wiring harness' over both rear arches, TBH it's been a long time since I had the interior out of a L322, the MOST will run over one of them though, I think it's the LH, which then crosses over to the centre in line with the 'B' pillar and on to the dash from there.

Yep, try a battery reset first - make sure it's well charged first though.
If it turns out the MOST is damaged, there are repair options.

Excuse my ignorance but how do I do the battery reset.?

I cant seem to find it searching the forum.?

Ignition off / key out for a min of 6 mins, disconnect -ve pole of the battery for another 6 mins (having made sure it is well charged first!) then reconnect, put the battery terminal back in one, positive movement to avoid contact arcing which can temporarily 'spike' some of the modules (if you do get contact arcing, don't worry, just leave disconnected for another 6 minutes) leave for a couple of minutes for everything to 'settle down' before putting the key in.

I'm sure I've missed out some of the essential Landrover smoke & mirrors, however, that procedure has worked for me for a long time over lots of different marques, including JLR vehicles.

JLR say to take both terminals off and touch them together but I can't see the point, if the battery is disconnected can't see it making any difference, what Phoenix said works for me as well, as he says the reconnection of the - needs to be a deliberate act....

Are you sure the welder disconnected the battery before welding? if he didn't the spikes in voltage can damage all sorts of things. I've seen the - post removed and it slowly tries to get back to where it was when fitted and it ends up touching the battery post. it needs to be wedged down the side of the battery rather than just moved away...  Pete

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2014 L405 Autobiography SDV8 4.4 Loire Blue Ebony interior
2011 L322 Vogue SE 4.4 TDV8 Baltic Blue. Parchment over Navy Interior. Sold
2012 L322 Autobiography 5.0 Supercharged Ipanema Sand, Jet Interior. Sold
2002 L322 Vogue 4.4 V8 Epson Green, Ivory over Aspen Interior (Fatty Offroader) Sold
-Click for Project Fatty off roader-

Unless it's HF strike welding, it's actually better to leave the battery connected as it's effectively a large capacitor and will absorb all the spikes, MIG / TIG welders and Plasma cutters are specifically rated for vehicle repairs (or not!) and will not damage any electronic modules within a specified distance. GYS machines are approved by most vehicle manufacturers for use in body repairs to their vehicles, they're not cheap, and that's one reason why. I have one of their Plasma cutters that I regularly use for removing exhaust sensors that are seized in without battery disconnection - yes, a spark eroder would be preferable but they are less than ideal with limited access.

Anyway, try a battery disconnect / reconnect first, hopefully that'll sort it - do you have any access to diagnostics beyond the billy-basic fault code readers? there may well be DTC's logged in the infotainment modules that will isolate the area of concern.

Good to know.... Why don't they put this stuff on the instructions, they all still say disconnect the battery... Pete

__________________________________________________
2014 L405 Autobiography SDV8 4.4 Loire Blue Ebony interior
2011 L322 Vogue SE 4.4 TDV8 Baltic Blue. Parchment over Navy Interior. Sold
2012 L322 Autobiography 5.0 Supercharged Ipanema Sand, Jet Interior. Sold
2002 L322 Vogue 4.4 V8 Epson Green, Ivory over Aspen Interior (Fatty Offroader) Sold
-Click for Project Fatty off roader-

Dunno, it may be an abundance of safety pointed towards consumers? the large (Mfr. approved) bodyshop we use only disconnect the battery if they have to do work in that area or have to move / disconnect the primary cables. They do move the welding set ground clamp around so it's close to the area of work and obviously move or cover up any control modules, harness' etc. to prevent heat or spark damage.

A far cry from my Saturday job as a kid, sat in various cars with a damp rag watching for carpet or bitumen soundproofing smoking or bursting into flames whilst the guy in the pit below was welding patch panels on with oxy-acetaline...

Cheers for the help guys

I will try the battery reset as soon as I get chance prob won't be till the weekend now anyway.
Yeh I asked him to disconnect it, he is a guy who does bodywork for a living so I would imagine he would know, maybe it has arched somehow I dont know, hopefully it hasn't.

Just hope the cables are not melted, its already breaking my heart and I've bearly drove it, I was going to invest in a code reader but I was planning on selling it as soon as the rust was fixed, I've lost the love already