Few weeks ago I occasionally heard a clicking behind the dash.
Eventually figured out it is the driver side recirc shutter (inner one) not working correctly.
I assume the gear inside is chewed up thus not allowing it to move.

Has anyone else had this issue?

I fear the the complete unit needs to be removed to repair?

I've not tried it on a L322 - or even if it's possible (although it should be!) it sounds like the motor has lost it's limit settings and is trying to drive past one or the other, if you can re-initialise to 'teach-in' the motor with whatever diagnostics you have, or read off the position sensor, looking for jumps or other anomalies in the reading, that may give a clue as to whether it's a mechanical or electro-mechanical issue.

ETA - just had a quick look on Topix, the actuators seem to be fairly easily removable on both sides, if nothing else it would ease the diagnostics to allow you to manually turn the drive stem to determine if there's any mechanical issues, or not.

Whilst having a look, you can see (with the filter housing in engine bay removed) the flap try to move as it clicks.
Will have to look on topix myself.

The inner flap has no resistance.

It is likely coming from the heater/diverter valve in the engine bay. I have also replaced 5 of the actuators, you just have to recalibrate them with IID SOLD | Tuned MY 2011.5 Range Rover Autobiography 4.4 TDV8 Orkney Grey | e-diff | ACC

New Toy: Unimog U1550L/37
New : G350D

Just to clarify, with the filter box removed in the engine bay, you can see the large recirc flaps.
With the clicking, I can see the drivers side one try to move.

So I suspect the motor gear has broken.

Which one is it?

It could still be an actuator issue, personally I'd remove it and turn the drive rod by hand (or torx socket) to see if it's a mechanical issue first, it looks like 20 mins. to remove the trim for access.

Worst case if it is a mechanical issue, unless you or your OCD needs the recirc. to be working properly is to just remove the actuator from the drive rod to stop the noise.

do you have a video? try re calibrating with iid SOLD | Tuned MY 2011.5 Range Rover Autobiography 4.4 TDV8 Orkney Grey | e-diff | ACC

New Toy: Unimog U1550L/37
New : G350D

I suspect it is an actuator issue. Just need to know which one it is.

If you have access to Topix, there's a remove/install procedure in 412-04 'Driver Side Recirculation Blend Door Actuator'

So it seems to be the ram air door. Which has the motor on the driver side. Oddly the passenger side seems to work ok.
Will remove and have a look.

Thanks

There's a motor for either side, don't get confused with the blend door actuator, they're physically different and close to the cabin trim, the recirculation actuators are closer to the centreline of the heater core assembly, look at the passenger side recirculation actuator for a better drawing of what to expect, also have a look at connector C-2360 for a CAD model of the setup.

From what I can make out from SM, the outer flap has motor on passenger side with a cable to driver side. The inner flap has the motor on the driver side with a cable to passenger.

It makes sense as you can hear the noise on the driver side.