Hi all
2004 TD6. To cut a long story short, I’ve replaced Servo, Master cylinder (both guaranteed good 2nd hand?)
2 rear flexis and copper lines down n/s to tears (there was a previous joint at front.

The pedal travels half way and then starts working. It seems only on fronts.
I’m trying to bleed with pressure bleeder not getting much fluid to rear so kinda guessed it was air in the ABS. Brought Foxwell (didn’t cover Range Rover) so run it round block using DSP.
Front anti locks are working.

Bleeding the old fashioned way and I can bleed fronts fine. Nothing from rear.
Slackened the front inlet brake pipe to the ABS module and when I press brake I get good spray of fluid.
Do the same for the rear inlet pipe to the ABS and it’s dry.

So my thinking is I’m getting nothing from the master cylinder to the rears?

Anyone any thoughts they could suggest?

Not sure what the 3rd pipe from the master cylinder (to a box on O/S wing) does?

Any help will be amazing as I’m at a loss now Accept, some days your the pigeon, some days your the statue!

From the diagram below, the master cylinder feeds two circuits of fluid to the ABS block, which in turn feeds all four brakes, I can't find a hydraulic diagram but each hydraulic circuit from the master cylinder 'should' feed one front wheel brake and the opposite rear brake, with that in mind, it's unlikely to be the master cylinder if there is braking effort on both front brakes... is it possible that there is a kink in the new pipe or it's been trapped & crushed? can you blow air down it with both ends disconnected?
Have you tried bleeding it with the ignition on (so the ABS block is active)?

If you think the hydraulic circuits from the master cylinder are front/rear, can you change the pipes over on the ABS block or (not and!) the master cylinder? this would prove a defective - or not, master cylinder.

Click image to enlarge

Hmmm that kinda woes out my idea of master cylinder then.
When you manually bleed, pump up pressure on the pedal and crack either front the pedal drops. (As it should)
Build up pressure on the pedal and crack the rears I get no fluid and pedal holds it’s position.

As you look at the top of the ABS block the “infeed” on the left is getting no fluid when disconnected and pedal pressed.
Other side pours fluid when pressing pedal.

Can’t see any kinks. Will try disconnecting the cylinder end and see what happens when press pedal then? Accept, some days your the pigeon, some days your the statue!

That was the diagram I was looking for - yes, you are correct, one thing to check is that the secondary circuit (rears) is being activated by the pushrod from the pedal/servo - is the master cylinder exactly the same as the one you took off in terms of the position of the pushrod before it makes contact? if the pedal is travelling halfway down as you say, it sounds like it's only got enough 'action' to engage the primary circuit to me.

I would be inclined to take the master cylinder off the car and bench bleed it. It’s possible the master cylinder isn’t full of fluid. If you have reasonable access you could do the bench bleed on the car, works just as well. Not sure about this but it’s also possible you have only refilled half the master cylinder when you topped it up with fluid. Usually the fluid reservoir has two chambers, you have maybe only filled one irrespective what the fluid level looks like on the side of it.

Your a star!!

Yes that does sound about right.
What you say does make sence as I believed the front brakes are primary and rears secondary.
So the fact I have no pressure for the first half of peddle travel. And then it’s just pushing the second half of travel (only enough stroke to push the primary section.

For the sake of £50 for a second hand servo and cylinder as one unit.. I’m thinking it may be easier to buy a complete unit again?


Your a diamond Accept, some days your the pigeon, some days your the statue!

nicedayforit wrote:

I would be inclined to take the master cylinder off the car and bench bleed it. It’s possible the master cylinder isn’t full of fluid. If you have reasonable access you could do the bench bleed on the car, works just as well. Not sure about this but it’s also possible you have only refilled half the master cylinder when you topped it up with fluid. Usually the fluid reservoir has two chambers, you have maybe only filled one irrespective what the fluid level looks like on the side of it.

In the first instance you shouldn’t need to buy a new combination just try and bleed it off the car. Unfortunately you may have already introduced air into the abs circuit which you will still ultimately need to get rid of by running the abs whilst bleeding.

Oh I’m confident I have/will haha.
Fronts have bled off fine after by driving with DSP activated. (Again only working braking on front)

Still can’t find a diagnostic that does ABS Bleed. But will worry about that once I get some fluid to the rears.

Thank you guys Accept, some days your the pigeon, some days your the statue!

There is one thing you could try re ensuring the reservoir is correctly full. Take off the cap and put it to one side, if you look in the hole you will see what appears to be a loose liner, with a pair of long nose pliers pull this liner up- it will come up halfway with a tug. Then check the fluid level and also add a small amount of fluid to see what happens. Not certain this applies to this car but l have come across others where the liner, which is in fact a coarse filter, has to be removed in order to fill a reservoir from new.

Just to confirm the brake fluid reservoir is divided into two compartments.