So guys,

If you take a look at the attached photo you will see the rust that will need repairing some time and that will involve welding and grinding. You can also see the fuel filler and tank cover are right up there in the way... and the petrol fuel tank isn't far off either.

So with that in mind, I will absolutely be removing the fuel tank and filler neck. While i've reviewed the workshop manual, I can see what is involved - even removing the centre console to remove the handbrake cable (!!).

A couple of things:

* How long should I reasonably expect for the tank removal to take? As a newbie to L322.
* Manual doesn't specify anything about exhaust, but I can't see how I can remove tank without that. Any comment?
* I wonder is there anything else that I could do while the tank and a few other bits are off? I am thinking that I might try and do a bit of a rust clean/treatment of some kind as the underside has plenty of scaling of surface rust. Heck, maybe I just drop the rear subframe and tidy it all up.

You'll need to remove the exhaust, then the heat shields above it and the rear prop shaft as the tank runs above the rear prop shaft.

I can't be much more help then that though unfortunately.

My rear prop was a to remove as it was seized into the diff. For the exhaust, heat shields and prop if it's your first time you'll probably be a couple of hours.

Exhaust (if it's original) is one piece from the back box to the manifolds and is heavy too!

David. 2002 4.6 Vogue SE - Alveston Red with Lightstone Leather
2012 Range Rover 5.0 SC Autobiography in Indus Silver with Jet/Ivory Interior
2012 Range Rover 4.4 TDV8 Autobiography in Baltic Blue with Sand Interior

Good luck with the rust, been there and wouldn't wish to do it again! I worked around the fuel filler neck, protecting it from sparks etc, but the rust I dealt with wasn't as bad as yours looks.

Ok thanks guys.

I guess I will prepare myself for it to be a mini project..

I think while i'm at it, i'll strip the rear subframe too and treat everything.

Damn seized nuts and I must say that a propshaft seized into diff sounds pretty gnarly if I am honest. What is the worst case scenario there if I can't remove when in situ? Remove diff and propshaft and separate on the bench?

Oh, when you say, diff you mean the "rear" and not front? Is there a diff in the front or is that typically referred to as the transfer case? I'm fairly green when it comes to 4x4 drivetrains lol.