I have just got the adaptive dynamic fault. I have inspected the leads on all 4 shocks, they all look ok. As my old scanner did little as far as diagnostics, I purchased the Icarsoft LR V3 to attempt to narrow the problem to one corner. The scanner only gives me code "C1B14-1C" "PERMANENT SENSOR SUPPLY 1". Does anyone have a clue where I should look with this information??

Sorry, This is in reference to my 2011 RR L322 with 5.0 SC

In the workshop manual there's a file called diagnostic codes to look up codes. Download from Wiki (scroll to bottom of the page) Gone to a good home: 2011 4.4 TDV8 Vogue SE Buckingham Blue with Ivory and clear glass = "Rory"
2025MY Defender D350 90 in Silicon Silver on coils
1974 Series 3 Lightweight = "Millie"
Many, many other Landies over the years
My preferred specialist: www.glenrands.co.uk
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Thanks Dr. Rob! It appears to be a code for power supply for the lower accelerometer or transducer. Wonderful... Now can anyone with more knowledge than I tell me where to go from here?

Good but can't help you anymore as knowledge is zero on that topic  Gone to a good home: 2011 4.4 TDV8 Vogue SE Buckingham Blue with Ivory and clear glass = "Rory"
2025MY Defender D350 90 in Silicon Silver on coils
1974 Series 3 Lightweight = "Millie"
Many, many other Landies over the years
My preferred specialist: www.glenrands.co.uk
--------------------------------------------------

BINDERMINDER wrote:

Thanks Dr. Rob! It appears to be a code for power supply for the lower accelerometer or transducer. Wonderful... Now can anyone with more knowledge than I tell me where to go from here?

Binder

Have you had the spare wheel out or jacked up the car to get a wheel of the ground?

I ask because the code you give is showing in the WM (link)

https://drive.google.com/file/d/0Byv5LFgQZ...yXSlJt_k7A

as C1B14-1C

is for height sensors

the next one C1B15-1C is for accelerometers.

If you haven't done either then it is quite possible it is the front damper wiring. It does sometimes appear to be OK but my be broken inside the sheath giving a fault.

I may be well out but HTH. Cheers
Richard

(there are no such things as an ordinary FullFat, an ordinary cat or too many tools)
2011 TDV8 Vogue Santorini Black
Gap IIDBT

Hi. I fitted two new solenoids and soldered the wires. No problem since. They're cheap Ken ----------------
2010 RR tdv8 3.6 ( gone but not forgotten ...)
2012 RR tdv8 4.4
2004 RR 4.4 V8 (M62) -gone but not forgotten (sob)
1998 P38 RR - least said the better
2009 BMW 7 Series 3.0d
Various motor cycles - BMW GS
1998 Jag XKr 4.0 V8

As I've just purchased this "big brother" to my '11 Jag XKR back in October, I haven't done anything but change the oil and the wipers. I've had some time today to read as much literature as possible on this issue (and many others) my fullfat folder is growing quite large and I will be using this new found knowledge for the CD player, the front cigar lighter receptacles and the rear entertainment quirks. From what I have found, C1B14-1c relates to Sensor supply 1
Lower lateral accelerometer or pressure transducer supply circuit: short circuit to other circuit or ground.
Lower lateral accelerometer fault
Pressure transducer fault

One other thing, the air will go out of the front shocks overnight. This was ocurring before the AD fault.
I will be checking for leaks.

So.. my mistake! The definition 0f DTC c1b14-1c that I had read over earlier pertaining to the accelerometer was from a 2006 RRdocument. RJFF directed me to the google docs RRWM from 2014 and it says this DTC is for the height sensors. I won't ask why... but why??? Thanks for the insight. Anyone with knowledge of best methods for testing will be my next best friend!

rjff wrote:

Binder

Have you had the spare wheel out or jacked up the car to get a wheel of the ground?

I ask because the code you give is showing in the WM (link)

https://drive.google.com/file/d/0Byv5LFgQZ...yXSlJt_k7A

as C1B14-1C

is for height sensors

the next one C1B15-1C is for accelerometers.

If you haven't done either then it is quite possible it is the front damper wiring. It does sometimes appear to be OK but my be broken inside the sheath giving a fault.

I may be well out but HTH.