Started to feel a judder every so often on driving, mainly low speed <45 under light load, cornering or up hill entering the motorway. So having had a look at the forum ect it let me to look at the brake calipers first. Having done this I've found that the rear wheel is warm to touch where as the other 3 arn't. So I'm guessing from previous experiences with cars it's the caliper.
So should I replace it or see if I can find any rust on the piston, clean up and copper slip the brake hubs where the brakes sit?
What's everyone else's experience with this on range rovers?
I have brembo front brakes but I'm guessing that they are standard rears as they don't look anything special IE silver coloured and not overly large like the fronts?

Any advice as always great fully received
Regards. Borrowed Grey 2002 3d 204k for a year
Now own a 2007 Java black Vogue SE 3.6TDV8 160k

Did my rears on 2011 TDV8, after the drivers side siezed. I got Bearmach calipers @<£40 (no exchange) each it hardly seemed worth wasting time trying to free it off and lubricate it so I just changed both of them.

£40 per calliper?
That is good… I have on my list brake reconditioning but at that price then it’s a no brainier to just swap them!

I assume they come with all that’s needed except pads? Currently driving: 2012 L322 SE Overfinch 4.4 tdv8

Past rides:
2014 Audi Q7 3.0d (good riddance)
2010 L322 Autobiography 5.0 Supercharged
2011 L320 HSE 3.0 sdv6
2014 Jaguar XF-RS 5.0 supercharged
2007 BMW 535D
2005 Mini Cooper S

https://www.fullfatrr.com/forum/topic59478.html

Change both rears and move on sir...Not worth messing about unless you are capable of rebuilding yours

What about the front brembo brakes? They aren’t a cheap replacement (I assume)…

I was toying with using a company to rebuild / service the brembos and also paint (and bake) them. Currently driving: 2012 L322 SE Overfinch 4.4 tdv8

Past rides:
2014 Audi Q7 3.0d (good riddance)
2010 L322 Autobiography 5.0 Supercharged
2011 L320 HSE 3.0 sdv6
2014 Jaguar XF-RS 5.0 supercharged
2007 BMW 535D
2005 Mini Cooper S

https://www.fullfatrr.com/forum/topic59478.html

The rear piston seizing is really common, it happened to me and I rebuilt mine.
If I hadn’t repainted them I reckon it would have taken 40 mins per side to remove, refurb and refit.

Check the project link below and you can see what’s involved Christian.


Current Cars
2011 Range Rover Vogue SE
2020 BMW M4 Competition
2019 BMW X4

My RR Blog: www.facebook.com/L322Project
or
https://www.fullfatrr.com/forum/topic61540.html

I agree, changing them both is probably quicker than a refurb.
And you know they are not likely to be any problem in the future. 2003 4.4 V8 Vogue. Oslo Blue.
2003 TD6 SE, Adriatic Blue, no sunroof, no heated seats, but I did love it.

Agree. Change em , not worth the hassle . ----------------
2010 RR tdv8 3.6 ( gone but not forgotten ...)
2012 RR tdv8 4.4
2004 RR 4.4 V8 (M62) -gone but not forgotten (sob)
1998 P38 RR - least said the better
2009 BMW 7 Series 3.0d
Various motor cycles - BMW GS
1998 Jag XKr 4.0 V8

What if i want to have painted callipers? I have yet to decide on colour, but can i get them pre-painted at a reasonable price? Or am i better painting them myself? I guess I’d have to strip them anyway to properly paint them… Currently driving: 2012 L322 SE Overfinch 4.4 tdv8

Past rides:
2014 Audi Q7 3.0d (good riddance)
2010 L322 Autobiography 5.0 Supercharged
2011 L320 HSE 3.0 sdv6
2014 Jaguar XF-RS 5.0 supercharged
2007 BMW 535D
2005 Mini Cooper S

https://www.fullfatrr.com/forum/topic59478.html