Good evening guys, I wonder if you could offer some collective advice?
So recently the car has failed to start, requiring a jump start. First time it was icy over night, and the car had been left outside in the car park for 10hrs. So I jump started it, and it turned over and started immediately. So we drove home 12miles, the following day I disconnected the battery, put foam insulation underneath, thicker foam 1inch all around the battery and on top.
Car has ran fine, started fine, done the same journeys as normal, been left to stand for two or three days, stated first time ect.
Today started car at 5-30 drove the 12miles to work mainly A roads and motorways. Parked up, got out, locked the car as normal, came back to the car at 7pm and unlocked the car, put the key it and as soon as it was turned to position 2 to wait for preheat to go out, all the dash lights flashed and the car just made a ticking sound. Jump leads out, and once again as soon as it was connected to another battery it started first turn of the key. It's not been particularly cold today, just on and off rain, so I doubt the weather has affected the charge like freezing temperatures do

First time it happened whilst waiting to insulate the battery it was first fully charged and drop tested, it was in the "green" but towards the lower end IE weak side of the discharge. The battery is a RAC (Varta) battery with a 5yr guarantee ( it's possibly 3yrs old max).
Tonight after the second failure we got home and I put the multimeter on the battery and checked the charging rate, it's registering 13.84volts weather I rev the car or leave it idling. After turning the car off the battery has registered a charge of 12.74volts.
So is 13.84v enough from the alternator? Should it change the voltage charge when higher rrv's are applied?
Any advice would be gratefully received as always. Borrowed Grey 2002 3d 204k for a year
Now own a 2007 Java black Vogue SE 3.6TDV8 160k

These highly sensitive girls rely on a fully charged battery. Any fluctuations on voltage & they tend to throw up warning lights akin to Blackpool in December.
The three key things I would personally check are:
Battery (could be a lazy battery or small discharge, whether it’s 3 yrs old or not, could be on its way out?)
Earths (I believe there are more than one, if not more than two from the battery to ‘earth’.)
Starter motor (I had mine do the click-click at 95k got it changed the next day) although you don’t mention click click?
Ignition switch (very doubtful) 2012 Orkney Grey Westminster 4.4TDV8 with Ivory interior.........nice!
Alfa Romeo Giulietta
Just one Montesa now, 349 White Wonder
Austin A40 Farina MK2
1975 Morris Marina 1.8TC
1973 Honda CB250 K4

Thanks Fox, I know they are very temperamental to battery discharge, I can't find any lights left on/obvious drains ect. It doesn't seem like the starter motor, and I know battery's can fail relatively quickly, hence why I put on about it being on the weak side of green on the drop test.
Does the charging rate of 13.74 sound right? Should it change with the revs or should it just always charge at one voltage IE 13.74v?
Do new battery's need coding to the vehicle like on other makes, I recently had to code my mother in law's battery to her Skoda.
I'd have thought if it was something draining the battery, I would fail more often these two issues are weeks apart. I shall certainly look for earthing points on the Range rover Vogue see what I can find and were. Borrowed Grey 2002 3d 204k for a year
Now own a 2007 Java black Vogue SE 3.6TDV8 160k

I know of battery woes, I had warnings from the day I got my car even though it always started up fine.

If your car isn't starting after being run shortly before then I would suggest the battery has collapsed.

A decent way to tell if it's the alternator or the battery is to put it on charge overnight and see if the problem remains.

13.84v is a little low, mine was putting out 14.9v, but it's worth noting that the output from the alternator is governed by the state of the battery as reported by the BMS.

Also, disconnect the battery terminal and fit an in-line ammeter and see what the idle current draw is, obviously don't turn on the ignition or you'll blow the fuse in the ammeter.

Oh, and yes you do need to tell the car a new battery has been fitted but there is a specific set of circumstances you need to follow when you reset it or the car will not learn the new battery capacity properly. Christian.


Current Cars
2011 Range Rover Vogue SE
2020 BMW M4 Competition
2019 BMW X4

My RR Blog: www.facebook.com/L322Project
or
https://www.fullfatrr.com/forum/topic61540.html

been having similar issues with mine and have found that the battery connections have been working loose on the terminals despite being as tight as I can get them? as it happens i'm off this afternoon to swap them over for the old fashioned clamp type so we'll see what happens....

I am no expert, but 14.4V is a typical charging value with the engine running. Bish.

2005 110 TD5 CSW
2011 TDV8 Vogue SE (gone)

14.4 V is correct for conventional charging systems.
The later computer regulated 'eco' systems, the voltage varies wildly according to the state of charge, engine temperature and regenerative charging on the over run etc.
One reason LR replaced conventional flooded acid batteries with absorbed glass mat as they are reputedly more robust towards the 'abusive' eco charging regime.
L322s are very sensitive to a low battery voltage. Forty years of progress. 1972-2012