Looking for a new car, and really fancy a 4.2 SC.

But I can get a newer TDV8 for similar price.

Its the turbo failure on the 3.6 that puts me off, but I have heard its the EGrs that cause the turbo failures.

Is that true? Do new EGRs remove the risk?

Cheers all.

Interested in this also, it’s hard to get a definitive answer.

The general consensus seems to be that Sports are worse than L322 for turbo failure.

I think if it’s well maintained and has good oil changed regularly, and the EGRs are in good order or not run with faults for long then you’ll probably be ok.

Also - turbo actuators need to be kept free moving - so looked at when serviced.

Others who are more knowledgeable will be along soon Ii have no doubt, but that is what i have gleaned since i bought mine, my apparently very knowledgeable specialist seems to agree with this also, and is more concerned about having the gearbox serviced than turbo issues.

Its all a tough choice

i have also seen a Cayenne Turbo, as well as the one jonnyboy54321 has just put up for sale on here

Oh I just dont know.

Lowers the risk but not remove the risk as the turbos can be damaged due to other things such as a spit hose causing over spinning or lack of oil changes causing poor lubrication to the bearings. 2012 TDV8 Vogue (L322)

I think there tends to be more issues on the Sport as there is less room under the bonnet… so more heat…. But I’m no expert.

I’ve seen posts where folk have replaced the EGRs and the turbo failed a bit after.

Don’t think there was ever a final consensus.

Plenty of folk have had a 3.6 without issue… others ended up with an expensive paper weight….

Why I skipped the 3.6 and went from TD6 to 4.4….

Think the only major thing to be aware of on the 4.2 SC is something being wired the wrong way round on the Supercharger…. Not sure if it was a cooler……?

 2011 Range Rover Vogue SE 4.4 TDV8

Previous cars :
2003 Range Rover Vogue TD6
1999 Discovery Td5 ES
1995 BMW M5 3.8 6 speed
1992 Range Rover 3.9 Efi Vogue
1992 BMW M5 3.8
1988 BMW 735i SE
1989 Ford Sierra XR4x4 2.9i
1981 Ford Fiesta Supersport

I suspect most would/should have been replaced by now, we replaced them with genuine in our old car the second they started to misbehave when interrogated.

We replaced them at 83k think, one was just the “positioning sensor” but otherwise mechanically very smooth, the other one was mechanically rough with the little rollers being screwed resulting in a section that stuck or was jerky on diagnostics this one was clearly hunting trying to achieve the commanded position.

Both were very clean, with just a light coating of soot that wiped clean with just your finger.

£350 in genuine parts and a afternoon under the bonnet. Sold - Bell a 2015 MY16 Loire Blue Autobiography 4.4 SDV8
Previously George a 2007 MY07 Java Black VSE 3.6 TDV8
Previously a 04 MY04 Defender 90

Blank them physically and electronically. Gone to a good home: 2011 4.4 TDV8 Vogue SE Buckingham Blue with Ivory and clear glass = "Rory"
2025MY Defender D350 90 in Silicon Silver on coils
1974 Series 3 Lightweight = "Millie"
Many, many other Landies over the years
My preferred specialist: www.glenrands.co.uk
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TJH1985, the big risk with the 3.6 EGRs isn't an electrical failure - that's just an an annoyance.
The major problem is the valve head breaking up & bits being sucked into the engine & spat out through the turbo.
The few cases reported in more detail son't seem to be on high mileage cars & is more likely due to a manufacaturing defect than just mileage / wear - so ultimatrely unpredictable whether it'll be low mileage or high - although high will add more actuations to fatigue any cracks or whatever.

My view is blank them off physically asap & then get them mapped out electrically if you've got someone who can do it relatively cheaply. If you can't get them mapped out cheaply, you're just as well leaving them in place & "working". When they fail electrically eventually then replace them with some cheap sh EGrs that work electrically. Paul,
2001 Discovery 2 TD5, 211,000 miles & climbing
2006 FFRR TDV8 Vogue 151,000 miles & now sold
Member of Midland (Land) Rover Owners Club, www.mroc.co.uk

My point was that they would likely have been changed at least once, given my own experience of one failed electronically and the other very rough / worn mechanically. I stripped them down out of curiosity when I replaced them. Sold - Bell a 2015 MY16 Loire Blue Autobiography 4.4 SDV8
Previously George a 2007 MY07 Java Black VSE 3.6 TDV8
Previously a 04 MY04 Defender 90

When I bought my 3.6 2008 with 10000 on the clock 5 months ago, the first thing I did was blank them off and got them mapped out with a remap from quantum for £250 and it's well worth it. Many on here told me it's the best way as it reduces heat in the engine. I noticed straight away from blanking them off it ran much smoother and pulled better and even more so when it was remapped. Like others say, oil and filter change every 5000 miles without fail should prolong the turbo life and the engine. I've actually got in the habit now of checking hoses and sensors every week as a matter of preventative maintenance.