After my success with the park sensors I'm gonna tackle the discs and pads next.

I've seen the "how to" video on YouTube and all looks easy !

Anyone have any advise or tips for when I do it?

Any special tools , torque settings etc CURRENT : FFRR 2012 4.4 TDV8
GONE : Discovery 4
GONE : BMW M5
GONE : L322 Range Rover
GONE : 2007 MITSUBISHI OUTLANDER
GONE : SAAB 9-3 VECTOR SPORT
GONE : BMW M3
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I couldnt get my discs off so in the end I went to a garage. If you're doing rear it may be worth doing the handbrake shoes too if you HB isn't perfect?

D 

Get yourself some copper grease and use it when you reassemble. Backs of pads and the disc to hub and hub faces to wheel, then you won't have any trouble the next time you change discs + pads

Buy it in a pot and liberally apply with small paint brush.

Don't apply to the wheel mating face! You can apply around the chamfer, but not on the face itself. The wheel is clamped onto this face and its the clamping force that holds the wheel on. If it can slide the bolts can sheer off as they are not designed to deal with any force other than clamping. 

Heard it all before...... But when you have to resort to sledge hammer/scaffold poles to get wheels off, you'll be wishing you had....


Even remember one poor sod having to resort to angle grinder to cut wheels off in chunks to remove when corroded to hub!

Also get a pad wear sensor mine was corroded to the old pad and I would always change anyway.

Rear handbrake shoes really should be replaced I did'nt though may end up doing them...

Also I don't know if the youtube video said what was required but a 7mm allen key is required to remove the rear caliper from carrier.
I bought a proper long handled one from Halfords and cut it down to fit @ £7
Also a 6mm Hex - 3/8 socket bit to get the disc off the hub a 6mm allen key may get it off but could'nt mine.

16mm socket required to remove carrier.

Make sure you use axle stands under it - I know someone who had a TD5 try and kill him when a rear Air bag let go and it sat on the bump stops with him under it - hence why I make a point of saying put axle stands under if any one jacks one up.

I put one under front subframe if jacking front or under the arm at the rear just to stop if coming fully down if the jack fails.

Top tip!

Get a decent Jack (Ie NOT the coathanger you get with the car!) and make sure it's supported on decent axle stands with wheel chocks on the others. You do NOT want to see what they look like on their arse  My Previous RR's!
2018 P400e Autobiography
2008 TDV8 Vogue
2006 TD6 Vogue
2007 TDV8 Vogue
2007 RRS (I know, it doesn't count!)
2005 4.4 Vogue on LPG
2005 TD6 Vogue
2003 4.4 Vogue
2001 4.6 HSE
2000 2.5 DHSE
1999 4.6 HSE
1997 4.6 HSE on LPG
1995 2.5 DSE
1989 3.9 EFI classic
1988 3.5 EFI classic

Richcl wrote:

Heard it all before...... But when you have to resort to sledge hammer/scaffold poles to get wheels off, you'll be wishing you had....


Even remember one poor sod having to resort to angle grinder to cut wheels off in chunks to remove when corroded to hub!

And I'm sure that will have been a professional mechanic, then, and not just some DIYer.

Dan is right. there is enough info avail from all sorts of sources on this. The hub to disc faces should not be lubricated and the hub (disc or rotor hat, actually) face to wheel should not either. The spigots can be - and that usually makes all the difference in the world. And if the wheels weren't only removed after 5 years everything would be fine too. 
RRC 2Dr, RRC 4Dr,
P38, and 2 L322s
(wife thinks I'm nuts - prob right, too)

I'm always surprised that they haven't developed some sort of ultra thin protector that sits between the alloy wheel and the hub to prevent them 'bonding'. For arguements sake some sort of rigid card like material that is say impregnated with a water resistant chemical to stop it breaking down. The worst yuo would get then is some 'paper' stuck on the hub and alloy. I thought of it once when I had to change a wheel and it put up one hell of a fight when O tried to get it off the hub! Steve

Main car : FFRR L405 Vogue SDV8
Other car : Vauxhall Lotus Carlton
Past cars : FFRR L322 Vogue TD6 SE (Sept 2006 MY07) ; LandCruiser SWB ; 4-Runner ; Supras; XJS V12 LeMans

SteveMFr wrote:

Richcl wrote:

Heard it all before...... But when you have to resort to sledge hammer/scaffold poles to get wheels off, you'll be wishing you had....


Even remember one poor sod having to resort to angle grinder to cut wheels off in chunks to remove when corroded to hub!

And I'm sure that will have been a professional mechanic, then, and not just some DIYer.

Dan is right. there is enough info avail from all sorts of sources on this. The hub to disc faces should not be lubricated and the hub (disc or rotor hat, actually) face to wheel should not either. The spigots can be - and that usually makes all the difference in the world. And if the wheels weren't only removed after 5 years everything would be fine too.