Home > Technical (L322) > Steering wheel no longer lowering automatically |
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Henrik07 Member Since: 14 Apr 2016 Location: Bergen Posts: 63 |
Hi.
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19th May 2021 1:36pm |
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garyRR Member Since: 13 Mar 2021 Location: Hampshire Posts: 1468 |
I'm not sure UK versions had a FBH fitted.
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19th May 2021 7:21pm |
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bluebottle Member Since: 16 Apr 2021 Location: The M3 Corridor Posts: 144 |
Mine has a FBH, I haven't tried it though I have the remote. 2012 L322 TDV8 Vogue SE: Buckingham Blue
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19th May 2021 9:22pm |
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Merchy Member Since: 14 Feb 2021 Location: North Wales Posts: 1192 |
Ditto as Bluebottle says - My 2006 has the FBH, but never used it.
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19th May 2021 10:20pm |
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CongoBoy Member Since: 11 Sep 2020 Location: Wiltshire Posts: 126 |
As above. I disabled mine via my GAP but it's the steering column can still be used via the column control. 2005 FFRR SC Java Black with Overfinch Exhaust (UK)
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19th May 2021 10:28pm |
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garyRR Member Since: 13 Mar 2021 Location: Hampshire Posts: 1468 |
I have the IID tool, spent a load of money on it and to be honest, I don't think they're much use when it comes to diagnosing problems.
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19th May 2021 10:31pm |
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Merchy Member Since: 14 Feb 2021 Location: North Wales Posts: 1192 |
Just found this, may give you some clues / pointers, hope this helps, I know just how bloody infuriating these cars can be.
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19th May 2021 10:50pm |
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Haylands Member Since: 04 Mar 2014 Location: East Yorkshire Posts: 8230 |
As for an IID tool not being useful I have to disagree, used mine dozens of times on both fatties and would be lost without it, you have to know how to interpret readings and specific fault codes but that is where this forum and the internet help, it just takes some time on line...
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19th May 2021 10:52pm |
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Merchy Member Since: 14 Feb 2021 Location: North Wales Posts: 1192 |
Think the same as in the above post, all I can add now is that a huge number of operations / commands are routed through the BCM ( Or BCU as some call it ) so reading any codes could be advantageous, prior to pulling bits out or spending money.
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19th May 2021 11:55pm |
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garyRR Member Since: 13 Mar 2021 Location: Hampshire Posts: 1468 |
I think you're missing the point of my remark.
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20th May 2021 12:41am |
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Henrik07 Member Since: 14 Apr 2016 Location: Bergen Posts: 63 |
I may be wrong, but I think all the V8 diesels have it. Some have the remote and others don't. Its main function is not to let you pre-heat the cabin, but rather to bring your engine up to running temp on a cold day. The fact that you get nothing but cold air on timed climate, doesn't mean that you don't have one - it only means that yours doesn't work, which it wouldn't if it's original and untouched since 2006. It sits beneath the battery tray if it's there. Access is via the wheelarch liner, but access from above can be arranged by drilling out the captive bolt sort of in the middle of the tray. As the weather strips under the windscreen and along the top of the bonnet fail, and the drains in each corner clog, water pours into the battery compartment every time it rains. This water is dumped right on top of the FBH, where all the electrical connections are. Again, I'm not saying that this is your problem, but I urge you to check it off your list. My first symptoms were exactly what you're describing. Not just close, but exactly the same. The rest came along a while later. I agree on your assessment of IID-tool or other diagnoistic's usefulness for fault tracing on these cars. I don't own one myself, but I've been to dealers and indys for diagnostics and they've only ever hit the mark when it's something engine-related. For wonky electrical faults, it's about as useful as tits on a donkey. In my experience, with P38, L322, Jag, VW and Alfa Romeo, these types of faults are always caused by moisture and corrosion. There must be a logical explanation as to why a semi-shorted FBH would affect the steering column, wipers, central locking, windows and whatever else you can shake a stick at, but plugging a device into your OBD-port is very unlikely to provide that explanation. This is why, when you take your car to the dealer's for diagnostics and repair, they will always come back with a list of parts which need replacing. These are the parts that the diagnostics list as faulty or unresponsive. More often than not, replacing these parts will not cure the problem, as it usually lies elsewhere. All you get is a bigger bill. That really bugs me, but I understand why it's so. The amount of time that goes into fault-tracing the electronics of something as complex as a Range Rover, makes it pretty much prohibitive from a cost perspective. Therefore, it sort of makes sense to replace parts first to see if that does the trick. Sometimes it will, either because the part was actually defective, or because the simple act of unplugging the old and connecting the new has re-established a previously broken connection. My sad realisation is that when it comes to in-car electronics, you're pretty much on your own if you're not knee-deep in cash. Thankfully there are forums like this, where someone is likely to have had a similar problem and managed to solve it. Good luck! Henrik |
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20th May 2021 6:43am |
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Haylands Member Since: 04 Mar 2014 Location: East Yorkshire Posts: 8230 |
Gary...
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20th May 2021 9:02am |
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