Hi My 02 4.4 just lost reverse gear and I cant find it. the car hasn't bonged and no warnings on dashboard,
Oil filter and cooler where changed in 2020, oil level is correct,
from a cold startup select R I hear a loud thump and car will crawl slowly in reverse,
but when warm I get loud thump but no reverse and engine revs rise and car wont reverse.
I have all forward gears and I can get engine braking in first gear in sport mode, oil still looks clean.
Is this a valve block issue that I can fix in car or removal of gearbox to repair.
Help and advice always appreciated

It's pretty hard to say without being stripped for inspection.

From my searches a few years ago, I understand it could be down to worn seals on one of the clutch actuators.

Turned out when mine did this on my 2002 FF, it was caused by a broken clutch drum according to the place that did the £2K re-build. But it needed a re-build as I'd had the 'rumble strip' type sensation at 45-50mph, when the torque converter was attempting to (unsuccessfully) lock up.

Jon 1992 RR Classic 3.9 efi Vogue
2014 Disco 4 HSE
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Both my fatties now gone...
Previous: 2011 L322 4.4 TDV8 Vogue SE /// 2002 L322 4.4 V8 HSE /// 2009 Discovery 3 2.7 TDV6 XS /// 2004 Defender 90 TD5 /// 1993 110 V8 Snatch Landrover /// 2005 Discovery 3 2.7 TDV6 SE (Aus) /// 1990 110 Isuzu 3.9 County (Aus) /// 1976 Series III Trayback (Aus)

I would suggest that you temporarily disconnect the 16-pin connector at the back of the transmission. This forces the transmission into failsafe mode and then the hydraulic feed to the C & F clutches is at full system pressure and there is no electronic or electrical intervention from the controller or solenoids. If the vehicle still won’t reverse when warm, then you have a mechanical problem (most likely a seal) and the transmission will have to be stripped.

Hi Phil
Many thanks for your advice, am home Wednesday night so will follow your suggestion then report back

Ron

Hi Phil
Have now disconected 16 pin cable car goes into limp mode 4th gear driving forward and it will reverse up my step drive way with no problems, took car for a gentle 5 mile drive to get it hot stopped numerous times tried reverse and had no problems, just brought car home reversed onto drive with no problems, could you advise my next step please

So, it would appear that both the C & F clutches are functioning correctly and that the hydraulic pressure to one (or both) is being incorrectly modulated, somehow, in normal operation.

This could be due to an internal leak (most likely from a failed support bush O-ring or worn sun gear shaft bushes) or it could be valve body related.

Hee hee, love pictures of a gearbox in bits like that Phil, thanks for posting and good to see you on the forum again.

That type of pitcure reminds me of this image from 'How to Keep Your Volkswagen Alive' by John Muir from the 1960s, my Dad had a copy and I loved leafing through it:

Click image to enlarge

Hi Phil
I have a spare good valve body coming on Tuesday, will swap it out and try that first.
Thank you for your advice and will update you.

Ron

I’ll keep my fingers crossed for you that it’s a valve body issue.

Any later version of the 5HP24 valve body assembly should be fine for just testing reverse, but (in case you aren’t aware) all L322s were fitted with the ‘350’ valve body assembly which had all the development & production fixes to October 2001. Hopefully your spare valve body assembly is a ‘350’ unit too.



Phil

Hi Phil just dropped transmission pan and found this spacer or shim on the left rear magnet in the pan
What is it and am assuming I may as well remove the box now

Wow, I’ve never seen that happen before

Hard to tell from the photograph because it’s in pieces, but it could be the snap ring that sits in a groove on the output shaft to form an abutment for the park lock gear. The snap ring is 38mm outside diameter, 33mm inside diameter and 2mm thick. Does that stack up?

Click image to enlarge

Hi Phil yes it looks like the one in your picture, so box out that's the weekend used up lol