Hi everyone,
This is my first post on here although I've been a member for many months and have found this a fantastic friendly resource.
Around 6 months ago I purchased a MY10 3.6 TDV8 Vogue which had 34,000 miles on the clock with full S/H which I duly fell in love with! However I've been chasing a problem for around a few weeks now which I'm hoping I can find some help with..
Upon sticking my head underneath a few weeks ago I noticed a fairly major oil leak so I started upon the task of tracking it down, this involved liberal amounts of degreaser and a brush! messy job.... I managed to trace it to the front crankshaft seal
So I had a good search around and it seems like the front seal isn't as popular failure as the rear seal, I searched high and low and couldn't find anyone with a similar oil leak from this area. So I thought what the heck lets crack on and get the seal replaced so gathered all the parts:
1x New Genuine Seal
1x Replacement Crankshaft bolt
The job in itself wasn't too bad, it's very quick to strip the front end down to gain access to the the crank pulley (please forgive me I didn't manage to take many pictures on the strip down but it involved) :
Remove both intercooler hoses
Removing the all of the top radiator hoses and tie back out of the way.
Remove top half of Viscous fan cowl
Remove viscous fan itself
Once all of this is done there is plenty of room for access to the crank pulley.
If you then have the correct crank pulley tool you can go ahead and remove the crank pulley.
I didn't and so then set about removing the starter motor to gain access to the ring gear to enable me to lock the crank (I didn't manage to take any photos of this but it's very straight forward you have to remove 2 heat shields and that fully exposes the starter motor then it's two 13mm bolts which hold the starter to the gearbox, you can just about wiggle enough room to gain access to insert the locking tool (borrowed from a friend )
Then I set about the 21mm bolt with my 4ft breaker bar to remove the crank bolt. (it's tight! 140nm + 90 degrees) but mine came undone relatively easy.
This is what I was greeted with! quite a mess! I then set about removing the seal, easy with a pick type tool (try not to damage the shaft or any of the mating surfaces, as this could cause a further leak) I also cleaned the area up again more degreaser.... I think it's easy to confirm that the leak originated from here once seeing this..
Inserting the new seal has to be done very carefully and everything has to be clean, do not use any lubricant or oil on the seal or shaft, the official tool is used with the old crank bolt to 'wind it in' it's critical that the seal isn't wound in too far it has to be 'no more than 1mm inside the lip' or else it can block some oil drains with in the casing. I used a 32mm socket with the old crank bolt, it's a perfect fit for the job, 1/4 of a turn at a time constantly checking it's going in square and into it's correct position (I used a vernier calliper to take measurments for this)
Then it's just a question of working in reverse and refitting everything....
But... I've now done around 100 miles in the car since doing the job and I think I still have a leak... It could of course still be some oil I haven't cleaned up running back down over the sump and the fan doing it's best to blow it everywhere.
It could be the seal, people have fitted them before to find the leak still exists, I used genuine because they are supposed to be better they have a multi ribbed type seal around the crank itself, I was meticulous regarding it's installation...
Or could it be coming from somewhere else....
It's without a doubt engine oil so that rules out any other fluids.
Could it be the oil pump casing seal maybe?
I'd greatly value any input that anyone has or if they've tackled a similar leak before...
Apologies for my first post being a long one, and I hope it's in the right place...
And thank you in advance for any help!
Rob
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